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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    If the cat is bad, the two sensors will pretty much mirror each other:
  2. JFP in PA
    OK, couple of points: When you reprogrammed the DME, it has the same effect as clearing all codes, namely the car needs to run for some miles and drive cycles before the SAI will reset. On some of the early 986's, it could actually take a couple hundred miles before this happened, so do be surprised. As for the O2 sensor issue, Oxygen sensor voltages should be between 0.04v and 0.79v. The DME is looking at the relative voltages before and after the cats to confirm the car is in air/fuel spec. One sensor (the one behind the main cat) will produce a fairly steady voltage, while the one ahead of the cat will cycle in a sine wave like fashion if the cat is in good order:
  3. JFP in PA
    Yes, there are two, but you only need to replace the one that isn't working.
  4. JFP in PA
    Buy the best torque wrenches you can afford, and stop looking at them as an expense, but rather consider them an investment in maintaining your vehicles. Better equipment typically gives better accuracy as well and maintains the accuracy over time. Literally, "you gets what you pays for" when it comes to tools. Every fastener in your car has a torque spec range, which can be found in the OEM service manuals for the vehicle. Again, consider the manuals to be an investment in correctly maintaining your vehicle. Using most spec ranges mid values as your torque targets would keep you in good stead with either a +/- 2% or 4% tool.
  5. JFP in PA
    More likely they would be related to a low voltage issue; check your battery (load test it) and alternator for correct output.
  6. JFP in PA
    Let me start by saying we have had a lot of cars similar to yours through the shop, and this is no where near a common issue; and is obviously not even in the same league with losing an IMS bearing. Sometimes even hardened bolts have internal faults that cause them to shear off; Porsche does not require individual bolt testing on all fasteners on these engines. It is also possible that the original bolt was not torqued properly, or that the replacement was over torqued, but we will never know the answer to that question. As we do not know what kind of bolt your mechanic used, it is impossible to comment on what happened there. This time, insist that your mechanic obtains the correct part number bolt from Porsche, and installs it to the recommended torque setting. It is entirely possible that it will not happened again, but you have to start from a known position.
  7. JFP in PA
    My point is that it isn't necessary to delete the cats, remap the DME, or mess with O2 extenders, you just need to use the correct sensors and everything will probably be just fine..........
  8. JFP in PA
    From the OBD II diagnostics manual, read it and weep: You most likely have an incompatible O2 sensor, which is why it is always a good idea to go with the correct parts. Good luck defeating the system.....
  9. JFP in PA
    Couple of points: The resistance reading spec on the circuit you are working with is infinite resistance per the OEM service manuals. Instead of screwing around and trying jury rig a fix to defeat the system, why don't you just repair or replace the sensors if they are bad? They are not that expensive, and relatively easy to replace if they are actually bad. Your problem could be as simple as a connector or wiring issue.
  10. JFP in PA
    OK, you have a no start condition, what codes are you seeing, and what diagnostics have you run?
  11. JFP in PA
    It would be far easier to test it in the car using a Porsche scan tool. Why do you want to test it?
  12. JFP in PA
    Unfortunately, you will have to replace the entire pump, and I would suggest getting it from board sponsor Sunset Porsche ( 1-888-502-5927) rather than Pelican. Nearly all modern cars use plastic extensively on their fuel systems, simply because it is lighter than metal.
  13. JFP in PA
    That would be the EVAP system purge valve, which connects to the canister next to the gas filler tube.
  14. JFP in PA
    Fully charged, the battery should give you around 12.6-12.8V DC (open circuit, no load, engine off). With the engine at idle, you should see 13.5V-14.5V DC. The ideal method to test batteries is to run a load test, but that requires a piece of equipment to accomplish. Here, many auto parts stores will do them for free in hopes of selling you a replacement.
  15. JFP in PA
    I believe that is a 999-590-036-40-01C, which retail for about $1.30 each.
  16. JFP in PA
    The PDCC system may be low or have an air pocket in it. You need to get the vehicle scanned to really know what is going on.
  17. JFP in PA
    Porsche's suggested service intervals for the Tip could best be described as "optimistic". We prefer to do a fluid drain and filter in the 40-50K mile range simply because it is nearly impossible to change out all the fluid (most of the fluid is in the torque converter when the engine is not running), so you typically get less than half of it out during service. I would seriously consider servicing the transmission.
  18. JFP in PA
    Error codes are covered in the OBD II manual, which was a separate publication.
  19. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Just be aware that jumpering or otherwise disabling a Federally mandated safety equipment device can get you a failure at your annual state inspection in many states. These are also the kind of "cheap out" mods that liability lawyers love.
  20. JFP in PA
    Fehlercode 7014 Fehler: erwarteter Blocktitel nicht eingetroffen Translates to "Error: expected block title not arrived"
  21. JFP in PA
    Which could happen if there was no communications from one or more cam position sensor.
  22. JFP in PA
    By running either a compression or leak down test on each cylinder. If you have a cylinder head to water jacket leak, you can also detect it by analysis of the coolant for combustion byproducts.
  23. JFP in PA
    First of all, welcome to RennTech Lesson #1: Porsche uses unique diagnostic logic on their cars, which mean you need access to a Porsche specific scan tool (PST II, PIWIS, Durametric) to get accurate information. I'm not sure that the VDO, which is primarily configured as a VAG or VW scanner can accurately read your system. If the VDO read out is correct, you have four codes, two for cam position timing issue, two others for O2 sensor issues. I'm not sure why the VDO is saying otherwise, but my first move would be to get the car scanned with a Porsche system before you start chasing your tail needlessly.
  24. JFP in PA
    I would take a close look at the sensor retaining bracket, we see these things snapped off pretty regularly:
  25. JFP in PA
    DT40 brings both excellent film strength, and one of the highest levels of ZDDP that you can find in an over the counter full synthetic, as most of the larger oil compounders have bought into the low SAPS oil formulations that supposedly help with converter life (which is at best speculation) by significantly reducing (or even eliminating) ZDDP from their formulations. The new anti wear compounds, usually other metal salts such as titanium, simply do not offer the level of wear protection that ZDDP has done for decades. As for your question about which oil for a hot climate, I would use the 10W-40 full synthetic with the highest level of ZDDP I could find. 10W-X oils inherently have better film strengths than 5W-X oils, which will offer better component protection in the heat. Gibbs had a full synthetic 10W-40 oil that they promoted for "hot rods or restored muscle cars" that would be an excellent choice, as would some Motul offerings in the same weight range. I would also keep an eye out for diesel oils like Shell's Rotella (which is available as a 15W-40). Because diesel engines are very hard on oil, and do not carry catalytic converters, their oils still carry high levels of ZDDP.
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