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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Welcome to RennTech The value of the engines would be with a shop that rebuilds them, depending upon condition, etc. You can try contacting Jake Raby at FlatSix Innovations down in Cleveland GA 706.865.1963 Jake is one of the leading engine builders and buys dead engines for cores.
  2. If it were in my shop, I'd drop the engine. It becomes overly complicated to try and do this in the car, and you can do a quicker and cleaner job out of the car on a stand.
  3. Don't overly downplay the issue, failing AOS units have claimed engines by suddenly catastrophically failing, allow the engine to suddenly inhale liquid oil and hydraulically lock, reducing the engine to rubble.
  4. Welcome to RennTech If your battery ran down because it was not connected to a proper battery maintainer over the winter, the battery may be too sulfated to recover, which is why the static voltage is low. Questionable batteries cause all sorts of weird electrical problems in these cars.
  5. The SAI system is notorious for this "fail" problem. As you have a Porsche diagnostic tool, the first thing to try is activation of the SAI pump using the diagnostic tool. If it does run, you need to start checking all of the valves in the system as one may be stuck or inoperative. This system is always a bit of an "Easter Egg hunt" when they act up. I would also think that your refueling issue may not be related to the SAI fail. but caused by a issue in the EVAP tank venting system, which again is a common problem area. Both of these areas have been written up previously, so I would start with a cup of coffee and a search for some info.
  6. AOS problems do happen after a car has been siting for a bit, we see it often in cars coming out of winter hibernation. The key diagnostic is the crankcase vacuum level. we use a digital manometer to test: On cold start, you should see a value between 4 and 7 inches of water, but warmed up, it should be no more than 5 inches of water. If it is over 5 inches, time for a new AOS, and do not buy an aftermarket unit, we had absolutely no luck with them. Stay with factory. You can find one of these incredibly accurate manometers on Amazon for less than $40, the rest is rubber tubing and a used oil cap.
  7. With the cams mechanically where they are supposed to be, the problem has to lie with the system that reads the position or interprets the deviation values: Cam position sensor, crank position sensor (used as a reference in the process), wiring, or the DME.
  8. A five chain will have one slot on the exhaust side cam.
  9. Let's start with the basics, cam deviation values on these engine's are +/- 6 degrees, so obviously you have a problem. Before disassembling anything, I would hand rotate the engine to TDC and pin the crank pulley, and then pull the cam plugs on bank 1 and check the cam slot position(s) (you did not include the year of the engine, so I don't know if it is a 3 or 5 chain engine, so I don't know if you have one or two slots). At this point, you have basically put the engine in the starting position for an IMS swap, so the IMS cam locking tool should slip right in; if the cam slots are not in the correct position to accomplish this, the cam is out of time and needs to be reset. Good luck.
  10. Anytime, that is what we are here for.
  11. You are OK to drive the car with the console apart.
  12. Although they look almost identical, the top and bottom idler pulleys have two different part numbers so be careful not to mix them up if you are replacing them both at the same time. Reinstallation is a snap, simply install the bolts and tighten to 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt or 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9). The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm). The bolts that are used on the pulleys originally had self-locking compound on them when they were new, so if you are reusing them again, then simply add a little bit of blue Loctite 242 to the threads prior to installing them. The tensioner pulley is a little bit different. It is attached to a spring-loaded arm via a single bolt that is backwards in orientation from the other two idler pulleys. You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when you pull it off. Reinstall the new pulley in the same manner, using a small bead of blue Loctite 242. Tighten the assembly to 44 ft-lb (60 Nm). The little ball of the pulley locking pin unscrews.
  13. That is because we place a high value on civility and decorum on RennTech, we simply do not allow "harsh" to get started........................
  14. When in shipment, several things on the car are set to inactive. When the car gets to the dealer, the dealer puts the vehicle through "handover" to activate all system so that when a customer comes in and wants to test drive it during prepurchase, everything works.
  15. I'm currently away from the shop for a few days, so no, I cannot help you at this time, but perhaps someone else can chime in.
  16. It sounds like the AOS is toast. We actually check the crankcase vacuum with a digital manometer, you should never exceed 5 inches of water with a good AOS. We often seen 8-10 inches on a unit that is failing.
  17. Welcome to RennTech The DME and the CLU/immobilizer have to both be coded with a PIWIS in order to work together. This is why swapping DME's does not work. As you are going to have to tow the vehicle to a PIWIS equipped shop in any case, they should also be able to scan your original DME to find out what is up with it. It may be a simple fix to get your original DME back online. Good luck, and let us know what they find.
  18. There are factory spec ranges for each value that are designed to be used as wear characteristics to determine when service is required, much like useful tread depth on tires.
  19. Anytime you connect a battery and get smoke and/or burnt smells, you are risking burning the car to the ground. Something has shorted and is not going to heal by itself, you need to get the car up in the air and start searching for what got hot before even thinking about reconnecting the battery.
  20. You always need to be careful where you source parts for these cars; cheap parts rarely end up being good choices, and some vendors are well known for pushing aftermarket stuff as being "OEM" when it really isn't.
  21. Just make sure you get the one for your exact car as there are several different versions.
  22. Possibly a shifter cable wear/misalignment issue. If the car has the factory shifter, you can get a cheap (`$10) alignment tool from Porsche that holds the shifter in the correct position while you adjust the cables to match: If that does not do it, you are into checking the gear box internals
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