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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I would change the oil because of its age; used oil can break down over time from action of the contaminants on the additive package. The DT40 is an excellent choice. A 98 would have the dual row IMS, which is one of the strongest. Dual rows do fail, but at a much lower rate than the later single row bearings.
  2. This problem remains perplexingly odd. The car's computer system show no faults, yet it seems to be registering a fault on the instrument display. If you had a headlight servo motor issue, where should be faults, if wiring was shorted or disconnected, there should be faults. But there aren't any.
  3. I've often felt that these engines were designed for a tech with three hands to work on..............
  4. Unfortunately, many times these postings do not end well, with the owner facing big expenses or the possible heart break of selling off the car as a roller with a duff engine. Coming back here to tell how it panned out is the least of their problems.
  5. Threads are not removed unless they violate forum policy, and when discussing a potentially serious problem, considerable delays in posts are not uncommon. It has not even been a month since this tread was started, we have some that have remained open literally years, with occasional additions and/or questions.
  6. As noted earlier, they are attached to the suspension arms under the car, so you would need to get the car up in the air to check them.
  7. Go to the "electrical" section of the left-hand menu list and look for any current or pending codes. Do likewise in the "instrument cluster" section.
  8. When car's start from cold, it is not unusual for them to drip some water from the tail pipes. However, if there is an unusually large amount of water coming out, or it continues when the engine is warm, something is wrong.
  9. You cannot with that system. Have you scanned the controllers?
  10. Gen 1 cables only use the early software and will be "bricked" if you try and update to the latest version software (6.5.3.2). Because it can only use the old (several years old) software, it does not have many of the corrections or access to some of the systems on cars built after 2007. You do get what you pay for..............
  11. Gen 1 cables only use the early software and will be "bricked" if you try and update to the latest version software (6.5.3.2). Because it can only use the old (several years old) software, it does not have many of the corrections or access to some of the systems on cars built after 2007. You do get what you pay for..............
  12. If he has an obstructed exhaust, I would not be surprised he has misfires........
  13. OK, you car should have dual pipes coming out of each side mufflers, which could indicate a blocked passage in the muffler, or possibly a partially hung open by pass port:
  14. Always best to start with the year and model, plus any modifications, especially in your case, to the exhaust system.
  15. I would get the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS, Durametric system) looking of the codes associated with this MIL. These lights have a control system the operates the servo motors that move the lights, and you could have one out or just needing to be reset. The codes will tell you exactly what is wrong.
  16. The standard procedure to track down parasitic voltage draws is to place a multi meter between the positive battery cable and the battery, set on ohms. Then start pulling fuses one at a time until you find the circuit that is creating the draw.
  17. The vent valve is rarely involved as when it fails, it tends to shut off or reduce vacuum flow to the crankcase. As they are cheap, if you were to take it out to check it, I would just can in and put in a new one. And by-the-by, it is not at all unusual to have short lived AOS units, particularly if they are non factory. We have had exactly zero luck with aftermarket units and now only use factory.
  18. Does the car have HID or halogen lights? It is also useful if you post the year and model.
  19. You need to loosen up the other bolts and jiggle the engine around a bit while supporting it until the last bolt can be started.
  20. There are no "matching" engine numbers per se on these cars, The engine numbers tell you the type and year of production, but are not matched to a chassis.
  21. Welcome to RennTech The value of the engines would be with a shop that rebuilds them, depending upon condition, etc. You can try contacting Jake Raby at FlatSix Innovations down in Cleveland GA 706.865.1963 Jake is one of the leading engine builders and buys dead engines for cores.
  22. If it were in my shop, I'd drop the engine. It becomes overly complicated to try and do this in the car, and you can do a quicker and cleaner job out of the car on a stand.
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