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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. With the cams mechanically where they are supposed to be, the problem has to lie with the system that reads the position or interprets the deviation values: Cam position sensor, crank position sensor (used as a reference in the process), wiring, or the DME.
  2. A five chain will have one slot on the exhaust side cam.
  3. Let's start with the basics, cam deviation values on these engine's are +/- 6 degrees, so obviously you have a problem. Before disassembling anything, I would hand rotate the engine to TDC and pin the crank pulley, and then pull the cam plugs on bank 1 and check the cam slot position(s) (you did not include the year of the engine, so I don't know if it is a 3 or 5 chain engine, so I don't know if you have one or two slots). At this point, you have basically put the engine in the starting position for an IMS swap, so the IMS cam locking tool should slip right in; if the cam slots are not in the correct position to accomplish this, the cam is out of time and needs to be reset. Good luck.
  4. Anytime, that is what we are here for.
  5. You are OK to drive the car with the console apart.
  6. Although they look almost identical, the top and bottom idler pulleys have two different part numbers so be careful not to mix them up if you are replacing them both at the same time. Reinstallation is a snap, simply install the bolts and tighten to 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt or 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9). The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm). The bolts that are used on the pulleys originally had self-locking compound on them when they were new, so if you are reusing them again, then simply add a little bit of blue Loctite 242 to the threads prior to installing them. The tensioner pulley is a little bit different. It is attached to a spring-loaded arm via a single bolt that is backwards in orientation from the other two idler pulleys. You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when you pull it off. Reinstall the new pulley in the same manner, using a small bead of blue Loctite 242. Tighten the assembly to 44 ft-lb (60 Nm). The little ball of the pulley locking pin unscrews.
  7. That is because we place a high value on civility and decorum on RennTech, we simply do not allow "harsh" to get started........................
  8. When in shipment, several things on the car are set to inactive. When the car gets to the dealer, the dealer puts the vehicle through "handover" to activate all system so that when a customer comes in and wants to test drive it during prepurchase, everything works.
  9. I'm currently away from the shop for a few days, so no, I cannot help you at this time, but perhaps someone else can chime in.
  10. It sounds like the AOS is toast. We actually check the crankcase vacuum with a digital manometer, you should never exceed 5 inches of water with a good AOS. We often seen 8-10 inches on a unit that is failing.
  11. Welcome to RennTech The DME and the CLU/immobilizer have to both be coded with a PIWIS in order to work together. This is why swapping DME's does not work. As you are going to have to tow the vehicle to a PIWIS equipped shop in any case, they should also be able to scan your original DME to find out what is up with it. It may be a simple fix to get your original DME back online. Good luck, and let us know what they find.
  12. There are factory spec ranges for each value that are designed to be used as wear characteristics to determine when service is required, much like useful tread depth on tires.
  13. Anytime you connect a battery and get smoke and/or burnt smells, you are risking burning the car to the ground. Something has shorted and is not going to heal by itself, you need to get the car up in the air and start searching for what got hot before even thinking about reconnecting the battery.
  14. You always need to be careful where you source parts for these cars; cheap parts rarely end up being good choices, and some vendors are well known for pushing aftermarket stuff as being "OEM" when it really isn't.
  15. Just make sure you get the one for your exact car as there are several different versions.
  16. Possibly a shifter cable wear/misalignment issue. If the car has the factory shifter, you can get a cheap (`$10) alignment tool from Porsche that holds the shifter in the correct position while you adjust the cables to match: If that does not do it, you are into checking the gear box internals
  17. First thing I would check is to see if the gearbox has the correct factory lube in it. If that is unknown, I would drain it and refill it with the factory stuff You would be surprised how many shifting issues are solved by doing this.
  18. I just did a quick check of the PET, and Porsche agrees with the dimensions Pelican lists, but Porsche also lists two different inner and outer O-rings depending upon the year and model of the engine (3.2 vs. 2.7L), which usually means there is something different. Pelican is well known for listing parts that almost fit, either because they are aftermarket or just listed incorrectly, which is why over the years we have purchased very little from them. We get our plug tube O-rings direct from Porsche, and they fit correctly.
  19. Silicone grease is extremely slippery and allows O-ring seals to slip into their groove recesses without getting pinched or cut in the process. Silicone sealant on the other hand is very tacky, transfers to whatever it touches, and then dries to form a bond to what ever it touched, so if you get an O-ring pinched or out of position in its mating grooves (which is actually easier to do when using the tacky sealant) it will not only leak, but is now adhered to the components. So when it does leak, you now have a bigger headache trying to clean up the mating surfaces before putting new replacement parts in. Often, this entails removing the cam covers, which is not a lot of fun with the engine still in the car. The small inner O-ring on the plug tube (the black one in the photo) has to pop into a machined recess in the cylinder head without getting cut or coming out of the groove on the tube in order to form an oil tight seal, so lubrication is the key. The larger O-ring is less prone to pop out of place, but also benefits from lubrication as well. The entire process is to install the rings onto the tube dry, then apply a thin coating of silicone grease to the outside of the O-rings. The tube will go right into place with minimal effort and the rings will form an oil tight seal. And then it is Miller time....................... And before anyone asks, the lower tool is the factory item for extracting the tubes.
  20. I actually know Logray, but again, such sealant use on the flange perimeter and bolts is both unnecessary and can actually be detrimental and end up causing leaks. Green Loctite on the center bolt is correct as it is a wicking sealant to prevent any potential leak if the internal o-ring seal on the center bolt fails. We have installed a lot of IMS retrofits over the last nine years, and we never used sealant, and have not had any come back with leaks. Anyone that has taken Jake Raby's engine rebuild school classes will tell you the same thing, and Jake developed the process, tooling, and actual replacement bearings in conjunction with LN Engineering.
  21. The valve is a Schrader type, much like the one in a tire stem. They are not made from the same materials however, so you need one for AC use. To remove it, you need to recover all the gas out of the system using an appropriate system; then the valve can be removed and replaced. From there it is a simple evacuate and test for leaks and a recharge with the correct amount of gas.
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