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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Unfortunately, many times these postings do not end well, with the owner facing big expenses or the possible heart break of selling off the car as a roller with a duff engine. Coming back here to tell how it panned out is the least of their problems.
  2. Threads are not removed unless they violate forum policy, and when discussing a potentially serious problem, considerable delays in posts are not uncommon. It has not even been a month since this tread was started, we have some that have remained open literally years, with occasional additions and/or questions.
  3. As noted earlier, they are attached to the suspension arms under the car, so you would need to get the car up in the air to check them.
  4. Go to the "electrical" section of the left-hand menu list and look for any current or pending codes. Do likewise in the "instrument cluster" section.
  5. When car's start from cold, it is not unusual for them to drip some water from the tail pipes. However, if there is an unusually large amount of water coming out, or it continues when the engine is warm, something is wrong.
  6. You cannot with that system. Have you scanned the controllers?
  7. Gen 1 cables only use the early software and will be "bricked" if you try and update to the latest version software (6.5.3.2). Because it can only use the old (several years old) software, it does not have many of the corrections or access to some of the systems on cars built after 2007. You do get what you pay for..............
  8. Gen 1 cables only use the early software and will be "bricked" if you try and update to the latest version software (6.5.3.2). Because it can only use the old (several years old) software, it does not have many of the corrections or access to some of the systems on cars built after 2007. You do get what you pay for..............
  9. If he has an obstructed exhaust, I would not be surprised he has misfires........
  10. OK, you car should have dual pipes coming out of each side mufflers, which could indicate a blocked passage in the muffler, or possibly a partially hung open by pass port:
  11. Always best to start with the year and model, plus any modifications, especially in your case, to the exhaust system.
  12. I would get the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS, Durametric system) looking of the codes associated with this MIL. These lights have a control system the operates the servo motors that move the lights, and you could have one out or just needing to be reset. The codes will tell you exactly what is wrong.
  13. The standard procedure to track down parasitic voltage draws is to place a multi meter between the positive battery cable and the battery, set on ohms. Then start pulling fuses one at a time until you find the circuit that is creating the draw.
  14. The vent valve is rarely involved as when it fails, it tends to shut off or reduce vacuum flow to the crankcase. As they are cheap, if you were to take it out to check it, I would just can in and put in a new one. And by-the-by, it is not at all unusual to have short lived AOS units, particularly if they are non factory. We have had exactly zero luck with aftermarket units and now only use factory.
  15. Does the car have HID or halogen lights? It is also useful if you post the year and model.
  16. You need to loosen up the other bolts and jiggle the engine around a bit while supporting it until the last bolt can be started.
  17. There are no "matching" engine numbers per se on these cars, The engine numbers tell you the type and year of production, but are not matched to a chassis.
  18. Welcome to RennTech The value of the engines would be with a shop that rebuilds them, depending upon condition, etc. You can try contacting Jake Raby at FlatSix Innovations down in Cleveland GA 706.865.1963 Jake is one of the leading engine builders and buys dead engines for cores.
  19. If it were in my shop, I'd drop the engine. It becomes overly complicated to try and do this in the car, and you can do a quicker and cleaner job out of the car on a stand.
  20. Don't overly downplay the issue, failing AOS units have claimed engines by suddenly catastrophically failing, allow the engine to suddenly inhale liquid oil and hydraulically lock, reducing the engine to rubble.
  21. Welcome to RennTech If your battery ran down because it was not connected to a proper battery maintainer over the winter, the battery may be too sulfated to recover, which is why the static voltage is low. Questionable batteries cause all sorts of weird electrical problems in these cars.
  22. The SAI system is notorious for this "fail" problem. As you have a Porsche diagnostic tool, the first thing to try is activation of the SAI pump using the diagnostic tool. If it does run, you need to start checking all of the valves in the system as one may be stuck or inoperative. This system is always a bit of an "Easter Egg hunt" when they act up. I would also think that your refueling issue may not be related to the SAI fail. but caused by a issue in the EVAP tank venting system, which again is a common problem area. Both of these areas have been written up previously, so I would start with a cup of coffee and a search for some info.
  23. AOS problems do happen after a car has been siting for a bit, we see it often in cars coming out of winter hibernation. The key diagnostic is the crankcase vacuum level. we use a digital manometer to test: On cold start, you should see a value between 4 and 7 inches of water, but warmed up, it should be no more than 5 inches of water. If it is over 5 inches, time for a new AOS, and do not buy an aftermarket unit, we had absolutely no luck with them. Stay with factory. You can find one of these incredibly accurate manometers on Amazon for less than $40, the rest is rubber tubing and a used oil cap.
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