JFP in PA

There are several "depends" here; what year is each engine as some were different DME version. There is also the question of VarioCam vs. VarioCam+, and the fact that the later engine's were more heavily dependent upon CAN bus for sensor communications. Any combination is possible, it is just the amount of work required to make it happen......

Stant and several other tool companies make them:

Welcome to RennTech The claim that lack lubrication is the only cause for IMS failures is a best suspect. With the early cars all carrying dual row bearings, lack of lubrication should have been more of a problem for them as they have twice the number of ball bearings in motion; yet just the opposite happened: The dual rows have proven to be vastly more durable than the single row bearings that came later. IMS failures are a much more complicated issue, with a variety of factors ranging from shaft wobble to materials of construction coming into play. The ceramic hybrid bearings LN uses only need a very low volume of oil from the mist inside the engine to lubricate properly; this is one of the reasons they designed this bearing this way to preclude the need for an outside oil source. Adding additional oil, particularly coming from the cylinder heads, is actually detrimental to the ceramic hybrid's survival. With more than 25,000 installations currently running on the streets, they would appear to have proven the design. Oil coming from the cylinder head is also one of the hottest and dirtiest sources for oil, making this is a bad idea. There have been multiple reports (we have had two in my shop alone) of both cylinder head noise issues as well as VarioCam problems when drawing an oil feed off the cylinder heads, both of which were solved by disconnecting the oil feed from the cylinder head source. There are now a variety of "me too" retrofit kits available in the market, ranging from cheap OEM type bearing replacements, to roller bearings, and oil fed kits; but only the LN systems have been both tested to destruction before they were taken to market and have proven themselves on the street with massive numbers of successfully performing installations. If your decision is based upon durability and life span over costs, take a close look at the LN IMS Solution, which is a solid bearing (no moving parts) design similar to the one used in the legendary air cooled turbo engines Porsche used to make. It uses an oil feed coming from the oil filter, so the oil is both clean and cool. Like other LN products, this system has been tested to destruction, including prolonged running without an oil supply, and survived every time. It is also the only retrofit that is a permanent life of the engine design.

There are two lines, hoses actually, the come out under the car near the center; one is the vent line from the battery, the other is the condensate drain line for the ac system. Both should protrude past the underbody panels. Blowing air into the battey does nothing positive, as it may actually dislodge the battery vent from the battery. You need to find the lines and determine which one is for the battery and leave it alone as you only need to clear the HVAC drain.

Your heater/ac system has a drain that is nearly in the center under the car, just about at the windshield looking at the car from the side. This line runs to the drip pan under the heater assembly. Because of the amount of condensate generated, mold often grows in this drain, blocking it, which leads to water on the floor inside the car. The optimum way to clear it is with some low pressure air from below. Be very circumspect about pushing a probe into this line as is it very easy to rupture the hose or dislodge it, which require pulling the inside heater assembly to replace.

Read the DIY, you can get at it from below with the bumper cover on, but there is limited room.

Here is a DIY write up: Resistor replacement on a 996

Yes, the gas cap can be pressure tested with the right equipment. It is impossible to even guess what may have been left loose when the injectors were done, that would need a smoke test.

Couple of points to ponder: Roller bearings have no greater load carrying capacity than ball bearings, and are actually at a deficit above certain RPM levels. Roller bearings tend to be less forgiving under slight misalignment, which is common in IMS shaft operation. And while ceramic ball bearings can survive quite well on oil mist lubrication, the same cannot be said for roller bearings. And because of possible patent infringement's, roller bearing IMS retrofits resort to rather questionable ways to attempt to lubricate them better. The Pelican bearing is simply a new factory bearing, but with a very large caveat: They do not make a dual row version, which your engine is. As the result, a Pelican would be a single row bearing with a spacer; so you would be replacing the strongest version of the factory IMS with the weakest version. So at the end of the day, while their may be other choices than LN ceramic hybrid bearings, the simple fact that there are now more than 25,000 LN ceramic hybrids running in everyday use, the same cannot be said for the roller bearings. I would suggest you read up a bit more on the different style systems before making a choice........

You can test one by heating it in a pot of water with a thermometer in it to see what temp it starts to open and when it is fully open. That said, if the stat has more than a couple of seasons on it, can it and put in a new one.

Looks like a dual row from its size and the mark from the wire retainer, show us the flange plate which is always the dead giveaway.

Two ways: Run a leak down test and check the coolant for the presence of combustion gasses. You need to do both to be sure.

As you need a PIWIS to do the clutch oil, it would require a dealer or very well equipped indie.

Usually the best source for the Gibbs oil is on line, it pops up on sale from a number of vendors who also throw in free shipping. Check out the usual suspects: Amazon, Jegs, etc.

M1 0W-40 is simply not the product that it once was. If I were you, I would take a very close looks at Joe Gibbs DT40, which is a 5W-40 with good ZDDP levels and excellent film strength. We are also not fans of Fram filters either for the same reasons; they are not as well made as they once were. I would take a look at the XP version of the NAPA filter, very well made, and readily available

We have actually seen repeatable improvement in UOA's on cars going to the 160 stat along with the lower oil temps, demonstrating that the oil is happier running cooler. On base Boxsters, the combination of the 160 stat and larger "S" oil cooler showed significant improvements in oil life.

You sure the sound isn't coming from the three way cat?

Typically, we see 25-30F drop in oil temps with the low temp stats

Just remember that the thermostat sets the minimum temperature the car will see in a steady state (read moving at reasonable speeds on the open road). Stuck in traffic, the car will slowly heat up from the steady state temps (usually around the low 170's F) to the temps where the fan kicks in, but will also cool back down to the steady state temps when the car gets moving again.

It is always a good idea to include the year, model, and any modifications in such questions. And as you have retrieved codes, the exact codes would be useful as well.

You have codes of overly rich conditions on both banks (1123 and 1125), and a code for the O2 sensor ahead of the main cat on the bank for cylinders 4-6 (P0150) either being short circuited or having lower than expected voltage. I would start with the P0150 code and check the harness and the sensor itself for a short, and the short could be the sensor itself.

If you measure the line flare, you can actually get little rubber caps for a few cents each that are supposed to be for capping off unused vacuum lines that look neat and do an excellent job as well: But a screw in a hunk of rubber hose also does the same job....................

We don't like to push hard objects like golf tees into the hard lines as they have unusual flare ends and you really do not want to deform them. Something soft, like hose, slipped over the line end is a better bet.............

Yes, but they do not have to be fancy, just some correctly sized black rubber hose with a screw in one end to stop the leak. You need to prevent the system draining and air getting back up into the ABS/PSM control network, as this then needs the scanner to activate systems during a flush to get it back out. A little fore thought and some fifty cent fabricated plugs/caps will prevent major headaches.

You are heading for a major headache. If you allow the brake system to drain of fluid, you will need a Porsche specific scan tool to get everything working again. You would be far better off to do one rubber line at a time, disconnecting and replacing with the braided lines. Once done, the entire system will need to be flushed to get the air out. If you are going to remove the calipers from the car, plan on fabricating some plugged rubber hose bits to cap off the car's hard line's while it is apart for the same reason.