Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to subscribe or donate. All subscriptions and donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual subscription or donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you subscribe RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's quality Porsche information at a low cost.

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by subscribing or donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,867
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    213

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Don't feel bad, the AOS replacement on a 996 is not for everyone and can easily turn into a knuckle busting, "wish I hadn't started this" affair; particularly if they do not have the necessary facilities at their disposal.
  2. Welcome to RennTech Always be careful about using crimp style connectors in these wiring looms; a lot of circuits in these cars are low or even fractional voltage systems, and crimp connectors can cause dissimilar metal corrosion over time, leading to increased resistance and unending problems. We always solder these connections and use heat shrink tubing over the solder joints. We recently had a Boxster in the shop with complaints of weird idle problems and occasional stalling issues. This car had been in and out of a handful of shops trying to solve the problem, and had gone through the replacement of O2 sensor for over $1K, new MAF (twice), etc., with no improvement before it came to us. When we tested the car, we noticed wildly fluctuation in the MAF readings, so we popped in a known good sensor, with no change in the readings. When we tested the MAF sensor wires for resistance, we found one wire had low, but measurable resistance. When we traced that wire, we found a repair done with a crimp connector and heat shrink tubing over it. We cut the repair out, soldered and heat shrink wrapped the new joint, and the MAF readings immediately became normal and steady. The car has run perfectly ever since. Crimp connectors are not always your friend...................
  3. Welcome to RennTech You need to determine what is causing the issue before apply any repair. The correct way to do this is by checking the system operating pressures first using a proper gauge set. If the problem is not low gas, adding excess can lead to major componet failure and big bucks. If the system is low on gas, the nest question becomes why is it low? If you have a slow leak, it is only a matter of time before you are back in the same spot again. The leak should be located and repaired before recharging the system. If you don't have the correct equipment to do this, take it to someone that does. AC repairs are reallly not a backyard DIY item.
  4. For future readers of this thread, watch which year you are looking at as Porsche reversed codes on the later DME, making P0501 the right sensor on cars with a 7.8 DME, which the OP has:
  5. I'm away from the shop at the moment, so working from memeory P0501 is for no speed signal, which can come from multiple sources: Break or short in the wiring from the ABS module to the ECM Break in the wiring from the left rear wheel speed sensor to the ABS module Left rear wheel speed sensor is dead. Pull the left rear wheel and check for a damaged sensor or heavy build up of brake dust. If OK, check the speed sensor for resistance, should be 1.6-1.8K ohms.
  6. Year and model of the car, and what codes?
  7. Have your taken the old connector into a VW or Audi dealer and asked them to try and match it?
  8. Most of the wiring connectors used in these cars are VW/Audi parts, and while Porsche does not sell them separately, VW and Audi do, as do aftermarket vendors as well. You need to try to identify the connector part number and search the internet. You can also try some wrecking yards.
  9. +1 On tight clearance interference engines, like these, reverse rotation is a bad idea.................
  10. Something to contemplate when working on any low or fractional voltage sensor harness: Do not use simple crimp connectors to join wires when replacing harness connectors. Most crimp connectors are aluminum, and the wires copper, so over time you will develop dissimilar metal corrosion between the two, and the car will develop odd problems like stalling for no reason, fluctuating idle issues, etc. We have seen this happen on several DIY MAF harness repairs. The fix is simple: cut out the crimp connectors to expose clean wire, slide a shrink tube section onto one wire, and then solder the wires together using rosin core solder. Then move the heat shrink tube into place and heat shrink it to form a weather tight connection. The idle and low RPM response problems will vanish and never come back. The problem with crimp connectors and their inherent corrosion issue is that the DME relies on a very low voltage signal from the MAF, and any corrosion can significantly alter that signal, leading to problems. With soldered connections, the signal will always be pure.
  11. As long as you recognize that this is rarely a permanent fix.........
  12. From practical experience, you are better off replacing the bushing. Glue and other "fixes" tend to ultimately fail.
  13. I would connect a digital manometer to the oil fill opening using an old oil fill cap: If the AOS is good, you should read 5 inches of water vacuum level or less.
  14. I would then call Ctek. The unit may have an internal fault, but Ctek is very good about their warranties.
  15. Welcome to RennTech P1702 is for "an impossible bit combination" at the DME, which could be software or a transistor chip problem in the DME. This is very problematic and probably why they could not get the unit to accept a reflash.
  16. How do you have the Ctek connected to the car? The Ctek cable that connects directly to the battery has a fuse in the positive wire. If you are using the lighter plug, there is a fuse inside that plug.
  17. Welcome to RennTech Usually, a blinking light means that the 3 amp fuse in the line to the battery has blown. Pull it and check it.
  18. Exactly my point. For someone with time and a well equipped facility to do in a leisurely manner, $500 parts they can get for perhaps half that elsewhere, and $1600 of labor seem almost outrageous. For someone that has never done this, has to get it done in a confined time frame because they need the car for work, and has only minimal facilities at their disposal; the numbers don't look so bad, particularly if they can drop the car off in the morning and pick it up in the afternoon. All a matter of perspective......
  19. My comment was directed at his dealer quote for $1600, who is probably hitting him at full list, which is around $520, or about a third of the quote. A DIY'er can pretty much always beat the commonly quoted dealer list, and even beat Sunset's web price, which is usually pretty good. But then they need special tooling at a couple hundred bucks, a place to do it with the necessary tool kit, etc. All depends upon how talented and determined the OP is, but the dealer price is not overly out of line. He might also want to get a second quote from an quality indie shop; could easily save some money over the dealer quote.
  20. Duncan, current retail for 996-605-902-00 from Porsche is more like $393 ( Sunset Porsche); but I would agree that around $1600 is a fair price for the job as it requires both special tooling and some working knowledge as well.
  21. Only if you want to get the oil filter off. While you did not say which year or model (always a good idea as they are not all the same) I'd suggest trying board sponsor Sunset Porsche, who retails the item for around $26.
  22. It does, should be in the engine actual values sub menu. The car should not be running lean.
  23. If you have a lean condition, I would be looking at the fuel trim values. The car should not be running lean, usually the result of a small vacuum leak somewhere in the intake system.
  24. You haven't mentioned any codes being thrown, so I will assume there are none. The DME is supposed to respond to the activation of the compressor by telling the engine to increase RPM and ignition timing slightly to compensate for the additional load created, making the process rather seamless. One suggestion I might offer is to check your car's MAF values to see if they are inline with specs. You might also try pulling the MAF sensor and cleaning it using a quality aerosol MAF cleaner to see if that makes the MAF more responsive.
  25. The problem on converting non HID lights to using aftermarket HID bulbs is the lack of a projector lens. The projector lens focuses the beam in such a manner as to reduce the intense glare put out by HID bulbs, and also causes the pronounced horizontal "cut off" of the upper portion of the HID beam seen in the factory Litronic headlamps. As the high beam in your car is not a projector lens, you would lose a large part of the HID high beam it widely scattered glare which would blind on coming drivers and be "ticket bait" for the nearest cops. And if who ever does your annual state inspection notices them, he is supposed to fail the car for non DOT conforming lights.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.