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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    For future readers of this thread, watch which year you are looking at as Porsche reversed codes on the later DME, making P0501 the right sensor on cars with a 7.8 DME, which the OP has:
  2. JFP in PA
    I'm away from the shop at the moment, so working from memeory P0501 is for no speed signal, which can come from multiple sources: Break or short in the wiring from the ABS module to the ECM Break in the wiring from the left rear wheel speed sensor to the ABS module Left rear wheel speed sensor is dead. Pull the left rear wheel and check for a damaged sensor or heavy build up of brake dust. If OK, check the speed sensor for resistance, should be 1.6-1.8K ohms.
  3. JFP in PA
    Year and model of the car, and what codes?
  4. JFP in PA
    Have your taken the old connector into a VW or Audi dealer and asked them to try and match it?
  5. JFP in PA
    Most of the wiring connectors used in these cars are VW/Audi parts, and while Porsche does not sell them separately, VW and Audi do, as do aftermarket vendors as well. You need to try to identify the connector part number and search the internet. You can also try some wrecking yards.
  6. JFP in PA
    +1 On tight clearance interference engines, like these, reverse rotation is a bad idea.................
  7. JFP in PA
    Something to contemplate when working on any low or fractional voltage sensor harness: Do not use simple crimp connectors to join wires when replacing harness connectors. Most crimp connectors are aluminum, and the wires copper, so over time you will develop dissimilar metal corrosion between the two, and the car will develop odd problems like stalling for no reason, fluctuating idle issues, etc. We have seen this happen on several DIY MAF harness repairs. The fix is simple: cut out the crimp connectors to expose clean wire, slide a shrink tube section onto one wire, and then solder the wires together using rosin core solder. Then move the heat shrink tube into place and heat shrink it to form a weather tight connection. The idle and low RPM response problems will vanish and never come back. The problem with crimp connectors and their inherent corrosion issue is that the DME relies on a very low voltage signal from the MAF, and any corrosion can significantly alter that signal, leading to problems. With soldered connections, the signal will always be pure.
  8. JFP in PA
    As long as you recognize that this is rarely a permanent fix.........
  9. JFP in PA
    From practical experience, you are better off replacing the bushing. Glue and other "fixes" tend to ultimately fail.
  10. JFP in PA
    I would connect a digital manometer to the oil fill opening using an old oil fill cap: If the AOS is good, you should read 5 inches of water vacuum level or less.
  11. JFP in PA
    I would then call Ctek. The unit may have an internal fault, but Ctek is very good about their warranties.
  12. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech P1702 is for "an impossible bit combination" at the DME, which could be software or a transistor chip problem in the DME. This is very problematic and probably why they could not get the unit to accept a reflash.
  13. JFP in PA
    How do you have the Ctek connected to the car? The Ctek cable that connects directly to the battery has a fuse in the positive wire. If you are using the lighter plug, there is a fuse inside that plug.
  14. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Usually, a blinking light means that the 3 amp fuse in the line to the battery has blown. Pull it and check it.
  15. JFP in PA
    Exactly my point. For someone with time and a well equipped facility to do in a leisurely manner, $500 parts they can get for perhaps half that elsewhere, and $1600 of labor seem almost outrageous. For someone that has never done this, has to get it done in a confined time frame because they need the car for work, and has only minimal facilities at their disposal; the numbers don't look so bad, particularly if they can drop the car off in the morning and pick it up in the afternoon. All a matter of perspective......
  16. JFP in PA
    My comment was directed at his dealer quote for $1600, who is probably hitting him at full list, which is around $520, or about a third of the quote. A DIY'er can pretty much always beat the commonly quoted dealer list, and even beat Sunset's web price, which is usually pretty good. But then they need special tooling at a couple hundred bucks, a place to do it with the necessary tool kit, etc. All depends upon how talented and determined the OP is, but the dealer price is not overly out of line. He might also want to get a second quote from an quality indie shop; could easily save some money over the dealer quote.
  17. JFP in PA
    Duncan, current retail for 996-605-902-00 from Porsche is more like $393 ( Sunset Porsche); but I would agree that around $1600 is a fair price for the job as it requires both special tooling and some working knowledge as well.
  18. JFP in PA
    Only if you want to get the oil filter off. While you did not say which year or model (always a good idea as they are not all the same) I'd suggest trying board sponsor Sunset Porsche, who retails the item for around $26.
  19. JFP in PA
    It does, should be in the engine actual values sub menu. The car should not be running lean.
  20. JFP in PA
    If you have a lean condition, I would be looking at the fuel trim values. The car should not be running lean, usually the result of a small vacuum leak somewhere in the intake system.
  21. JFP in PA
    You haven't mentioned any codes being thrown, so I will assume there are none. The DME is supposed to respond to the activation of the compressor by telling the engine to increase RPM and ignition timing slightly to compensate for the additional load created, making the process rather seamless. One suggestion I might offer is to check your car's MAF values to see if they are inline with specs. You might also try pulling the MAF sensor and cleaning it using a quality aerosol MAF cleaner to see if that makes the MAF more responsive.
  22. JFP in PA
    The problem on converting non HID lights to using aftermarket HID bulbs is the lack of a projector lens. The projector lens focuses the beam in such a manner as to reduce the intense glare put out by HID bulbs, and also causes the pronounced horizontal "cut off" of the upper portion of the HID beam seen in the factory Litronic headlamps. As the high beam in your car is not a projector lens, you would lose a large part of the HID high beam it widely scattered glare which would blind on coming drivers and be "ticket bait" for the nearest cops. And if who ever does your annual state inspection notices them, he is supposed to fail the car for non DOT conforming lights.
  23. JFP in PA
    Possibly the coolant tank or the water pump; you need to get the car up in the air and look.
  24. JFP in PA
    I would wait to see what Durametric has to say. Could be a number of things, but I would still like to see what they come up with before playing around.
  25. JFP in PA
    Have to agree with Duncan on this one; in all the years we have been working on these engine's, I have never seen one of the MLS head gaskets fail, simply because the head gasket is stronger than the cylinder head it self.
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