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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You seem to have multiple senor faults that are electrical in nature. Time to start checking the harness for damage or a loose connector.
  2. Loren is suggesting that you need to check for continuity and/or resistance in the circuit. Wires often look or feel fine, but when checked with a multi meter, there is no continuity (read a break in the wire internally), or there is high resistance (typically internal corrosion in the wire). Either will keep the horn from sounding.
  3. If there is one thing I've learned over the years of working on these cars, it is not to assume anything. I would focus on the cam sensor issue as suggested, and see what happens after it is solved.
  4. +1 I was typing the same thing, but Duncan was quicker!
  5. Welcome to RennTech The brake warning light has multiple functions; worn pads, low fluid, emergency brake engaged, etc. As you just changed the pads, I'd start with the new sensors; one simply may not be plugged in all the way.
  6. You need to look at the voltage signals from both sensors on that side:
  7. No idea, we never check them cold, so I have no reference point. Do you have access to a leak down tester?
  8. A bad valve should have shown up in the compression test.
  9. They also did not change the fluid, they just topped it up, which probably was not a lot of fluid. I'd suggest a full drain and refill with the correct lube.
  10. There is nothing there that tells me what fluid they used.
  11. I would try starting the car briefly from cold without the serpentine belt on it to see if the noise goes away.
  12. Could be several things. You may have a cam position sensor on the way out, it could be a problem with the VarioCam system itself on that bank, it could also be a chain issue. You need to dig deeper...........
  13. I'd ask them what they used; they would not be the first dealership we have seen use aftermarket gear oil. Assume nothing, question everything.
  14. I would definitely change the fuel filter. Along with checking all of the connections again, I would also use a digital manometer to check the vacuum level of the AOS. We have had little luck with aftermarket replacement AOS units due to the high rate of "right out of the box" failures, and no longer use them.
  15. Fuel pressure spec is 3.8 bar+/- 0.2 bar, or 55 PSIG +/- 3 PSIG. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? From Porsche OBD II Manual: P1124 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold Possible causes: - Intake air system leaking. - Fuel pressure too low. - Volume supply of fuel pump too low. - Fuel injectors fouled What the DME computer is saying is that it thinks the mixture is too lean (too much air) and that it can not compensate by making the mixture richer (adding fuel). 9 times out of 10 this is an air leak. An air leak can be a loose or damaged intake hose, a cracked oil filler pipe, or a bad AOS.
  16. The factory fill. Porsche has used unique spec gear oils for years, which no one in the after market has a match for. We buy ours in drums from a dealer.
  17. Welcome to RennTech I can only assume they did it correctly, as there is no way to know for sure. As much as I hate to say it, yours sounds more like the wrong gear oil than a shifter adjustment. A maladjusted shifter does not heal when it gets warm, but the wrong lubricant will tend to behave that way.
  18. The motor and hydraulics are separate, I seriously doubt anyone is going to cover the leak repair, dealer or otherwise.
  19. To see the plug firing voltages, you need an oscilloscope.
  20. If you are getting misfire codes, the plugs are wet from misfires, not richness. If the mixture was so rich, you should throw codes associated with being overly rich.
  21. I would also expect that five overly rich cylinders would trigger codes............
  22. I'm away from the shop at the moment, so I do not have access to nominal trim values, but I'm sure someone can chime in with them.
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