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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Unfortunately, there are no after market tools as the application is just too small. Shops like mine are stuck buying the factory unit. It can be done using a tool fabricated from four inch plastic pipe unions and using your old flywheel bolts, but all the photos of that have also been lost.
  2. The new design PTFE seal must be set to a critical depth in order to work properly, and all surfaces must be absolutely clean. Even a finger print can cause leakage. The blue plastic sleeve is designed to hold the seal in the correct shape and protect the surface, the factory tool allows the seal to be installed into the tool with the sleeve still in place, and the sleeve is retained in the tool after the installation is complete. Absolutely NO sealants of any kind should be used as they will also cause leakage. All of the pictures in the above posts were lost when Photoucket changed their rules, they cannot be recovered.
  3. Using too much sealant is a common DIY problem on these engines. Along with blowing out the cam plugs, we have seen oiling issues that were traced to a spaghetti like clog of the main oil pickup in the sump from the excess sealant that breaks off. As others have noted, first the mating surfaces must be scrupulously clean, and then only the bare minimum (a couple of MM) of sealant applied. Unfortunately, trying to work on these surfaces while lying on your back with oil dripping in your face, and while you can't even properly see the surfaces, leads to a multitude of issues. Along with blocking oil passages, when too much sealant is applied, subsequent repairs become problematic because the covers are not just sealed, they are cemented in place. When that happens, people end up breaking the cam covers trying to get them off. Then they discover that you cannot just substitute another cover because the cover and cylinder head is machined as a unit. Now you are in the market for an entirely new cylinder head assembly, which is both a major pain as well as a major expense.
  4. +1 We have several terminal extractors around the shop, but this is the one everybody reaches for.
  5. Don't be hard on yourself, this is not that uncommon a mistake for someone doing this for the first time. Fecal matter occurs, just be happy you have not caused bigger problems.
  6. I would get under the car and look at the cables and their mounts on the gear box; when these come loose, all Hell sets in............
  7. As I mentioned, one with at least 20 Amps out put; in the shop we use a commercial charger that can throw over 100 Amps when needed. I would look for one with what is called "smart charging", which simply means it uses modern electronics and software to control the charge cycle.
  8. It is a common misconception that a battery maintainer is capable of recharging a severely discharged battery. In reality, the maintainer simply cannot produce the current (read amps) necessary to recharge the battery, if it can be recharged. Many times, a deeply discharged flooded cell battery simply cannot recover and will not take a charge. Try recharging the battery on a real charger capable of 20 amps or more. If it does not recover, replace it.
  9. Fault code 4460 -- Pressure sensor Possible cause of fault - Short circuit to ground/voltage or open circuit in circuit to control module terminals 25, 26 and 42 - Plug connection on stop light switch faulty - Adjustment of the stop light switch not OK - Wiring/ plug connection faulty - Pressure sensor faulty (replace hydraulic unit)
  10. Welcome to RennTech Have that cylinder bore scoped, looking for usual wear on the thrust side.
  11. Welcome to RennTech Probably the cables used by the shifter to select gears, which may have hung up due to recently being taken apart. I would not worry about it unless it happens again.
  12. Have you actually replaced the bad vacuum lines or are you still running with them patched?
  13. I do not believe the internal filter is available as a separate part.
  14. Depending upon how the vehicle is equipped, you will probably need to lower the engine slightly.
  15. Welcome to RennTech If you are referring to the M6X35 bolt that hold the manifold to the cylinder head, it should be 10Nm or 7.5 ft lb.
  16. You need to check the voltage, which as I am away from the shop, I have no reference range to give you. Perhaps someone could chime in with the correct range. Voltage can be checked with a simple multimeter.
  17. I’m sorry, but that type of patch is only good to get a vehicle home. Replace the failed hoses or you will end up chasing your tail trying to fix this.
  18. I would suspect your voltage regulator is on its way out. A cheap and easy fix.
  19. The automatic sound level control was based upon Swiss noise level laws, which require these systems to close automatically between about 10 MPH and 25 MPH (speeds are approximate as the rule is in KPH). Put your window down, push the button on the console to open the system to loud, and slowly drive off; if the auto system is correctly installed, you should hear the car's volume drop around 10 MPH and come back around 25 MPH.
  20. That is the hose supplying vacuum to your power brake booster........................
  21. P2103 is for a high signal on the throttle actuator motor, so I rather doubt it is connected to your vacuum leak issue.
  22. We never fill customers cars to the max line, ever. Closest we get is one line below the max line. Occasional hard driving or track usage will end up with oil in the intake on vehicles without leaking turbos if you overfill the oil system.......................
  23. One or more vacuum lines are either loose or disconnected, most likely the one that supplies vacuum to your brake booster. I'd start there.............
  24. This engine should not be overfilled, drain some oil out of it until it is below the max line.
  25. I would start by trying to read the sensor voltages with the Durametric system.
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