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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
  2. JFP in PA
    This may start out sounding weird, but bear with me. You have two pin connectors on the harness coming from the DME to the solenoid, using a multimeter set to at least 12V DC, you should read around 3V on one pin, and battery voltage on the other (engine running). The low voltage pin is seeing the transistor or fet in the DME that is the ground (yes, I know grounds do not normally show voltage, but in this case it does because of the electronic device the DME uses, it has a low voltage DC signal on it). The second pin should show battery voltage (~13V DC) when the engine is running. Obviously, that is not what you are seeing, and as a 9V battery can trigger the solenoid, it looks like the solenoid is good, but the voltage on the harness is low and wavering with RPM's, which it should not be doing. That wire gets its power from the ECM relay, left side of the engine bay (if memory serves), which may be going south.
  3. JFP in PA
    Cylinder #5 is misfiring, try checking the electrical connector to the coil on that cylinder to see if it is seated; if it is fine, you may have a bad coil which you can test by moving it to another cylinder and seeing if the fault follows it.
  4. JFP in PA
    Should be.
  5. JFP in PA
    Should battery voltage, or very close to it. Are you sure your battery and alternator are behaving?
  6. JFP in PA
    An additional thought: Have you back probed the solenoid harness connector B+ with the car running to see if there is actually supply voltage?
  7. JFP in PA
    The way the system works is that the DME supplies a ground to the always hot solenoid at the appropriate RPM level, allowing the solenoid to assume the active position; so it is beginning to sound like you have either (1) a harness fault between the solenoid and the DME (high resistance causing a voltage drop), (2) a breach in the harness itself, or (3)an internal failure in the DME. I would disconnect the solenoid harness at the cam cover, and using a wiring diagram, check the harness from the cam cover connector to the appropriate DME harness pin for resistance, which would cause a voltage drop and stall the solenoids. If the harness is fine, you have a DME issue.
  8. JFP in PA
    If the car was in my shop, I would be testing the harness between the sensor and the DME for continuity, resistance, etc. The codes are specific to banks: P0140 is bank# 1, cylinders 1-3; P1121 is for bank # 2, cylinders 4-6. As both are signal interruption related, I would be checking the harness, both electrically, and visually for any damage. These kinds of faults can be a pain to locate the problem, as it can be anywhere along the harness (rodent damage, wire insulations becoming brittle and splitting, etc).
  9. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech I don't know where you got that definition for P1502, but that is not the code for the throttle jacking spring, it is the code for faulty fuel pump relay, so I would start there.....
  10. JFP in PA
    P0139 is the code for the O2 sensor after the main cat on bank #1 aging out, P1117 is for the heater element on the same sensor.
  11. JFP in PA
    You should be able to activate the solenoids one at a time with the Durametric, which should alter the engine's running characteristics. You should also be able to check the real time data section before and after activation and see the cam position changes. The second solenoid on each bank is for the valve lift controls. And, if you are so concerned about confirming the solenoid activations, you can by-pass the car's control system and use a 9V battery and a couple of pieces of scrap wire in place of the harness connection to try and force the activation while the car is running, or better yet, use a tool like a Power Probe to do the same thing. It would also be very unusual for both banks' soleniods to fail at the same time. As they share a common trigger signal, that could be a sign of a wiring issue like a voltage drop (weak signal), short to ground in the harness, or high resistance on the trigger wire.
  12. JFP in PA
    If attempting to activate it with the Durametric system does nothing, and the electrical connections to the unit are sound, the solenoid has to be bad.
  13. JFP in PA
    P0011 Position of Camshaft in Relation to Crankshaft, Bank 1 – Below Limit Diagnosis conditions • Idle speed • Reference mark recognized • Engine speed between 600 rpm and 1200 rpm. • Engine temperature greater than 40 °C • No fault in camshaft position sensors • Reference mark OK • No fault in camshaft adjustment • No fault in engine temperature • No fault in camshaft adjustment output stage Possible fault cause ◆ Allocation of camshaft to inlet camshaft incorrect Affected terminals Diagnosis/Troubleshooting Note! • This fault is stored if the engine was disassembled and the allocation of the camshaft to the inlet camshaft was incorrectly set.
  14. JFP in PA
    Test light or multimeter would work but start by checking for blown fuses. If memory serves, fuse B8 should be one that controls the DME
  15. JFP in PA
    It sounds like the timing is OK. Have you checked to see if the coil packs are getting power after you pinched the wires?
  16. JFP in PA
    There have been some video clips posted where the person uses a 9V battery as power source to test them out of the engine, but I have no experience with this type of test; if the unit does not assume an active position when energized in the engine, it has a problem.
  17. JFP in PA
    If the engine isn't changing when the solenoids are activated, nothing is changing because the cam angle is not moving; the solenoids are not assuming an active position when energized.
  18. JFP in PA
    Did you check your cam timing after getting all back together?
  19. JFP in PA
    No, it means you have power on the circuit, but it doesn't mean the solenoids are functional.
  20. JFP in PA
    Yes, if everything is functional and connected.
  21. JFP in PA
    Yes, you can test with a light.
  22. JFP in PA
    Yes.
  23. JFP in PA
    The oil pump is mechanically driven by the engine, you cannot "turn it on", the engine has to turn over to develop oil pressure. That said, you can pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and spin the engine over until it gets oil pressure, then reinstall the fuse or relay and you are ready to go. And yes, it is worthwhile to do,
  24. JFP in PA
    They may be the result of a DME "tune", common aftermarket tune factors are more timing and more boost.
  25. JFP in PA
    I think he is referring to ignition timing as "ignition angle".
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