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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Multiple sensors, and even multiple thermostats are not unusual in modern engines; thermal management has become much more complex and important in controlling emissions.
  2. It is probably functioning correctly; these were designed to "even out" coolant flow in some of the more complex modern cooling systems. Are you sure you don't have any air entrapped in the system?
  3. Simple: The balanced sleeve thermostat prevents unbalanced coolant flow (“water hammering” or pulsating) from the water pump by equalizing coolant pressure on both sides of the thermostat valve which allows consistent, even coolant flow and temperature. It does this using a series of constantly open passages to even out coolant flow:
  4. In the original diagnostic tree, there were three possible causes: Possible Causes Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch faulty Valve Body faulty Internal Failure in Transmission The convert was first because it was the most probable, you now need to look at the other possibles in order of priority.
  5. Welcome to RennTech Four functions of the coolant warning light: 1. Engine coolant level too low — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) 2. Engine compartment temperature too high — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty) 3. Engine coolant temperature too high — light is lit; pointer on the right 4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty — light flashes rapidly (1 Hz); pointer on the right Note The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously (1Hz = 1 flash per second. 0.5Hz = 2 seconds per flash)
  6. Long before I would even think about pulling the dash out, I would be looking at ALL of the possible reasons that dash light could come on, like a questionable temp sensor, a problem with the engine compartment fan, etc.
  7. Absolutely no way. The cigaret lighter socket is connected to the electrical system by a relatively light gauge wire, your starting battery used cables many times heavier to deal with the tremendous amperage draw that occurs during starts; if you tried to pull that kind of amperage through the lighter, you would instantly destroy your dash wiring harness and probably burn the car to the ground. VERY bad idea............
  8. Why are you removing the starter? I thought you were going to try voltage drop tests first..........
  9. There is a test port schrader valve on the fuel rail for this.
  10. The DME had no way of knowing wha the fuel pressure or delivery rates are, that requires manual diagnostic testing. You need to run both fuel pressure and delivery rate tests, which require the appropriate pressure gauge test tools.
  11. I would go the other way around: The Solution over the ceramic bearing. The Solution is the only permanent IMS retrofit (life of the engine) , and the only one that can actually be moved from one engine to another. Kind of hard to beat.
  12. I can't honestly say that I have ever seen an EVAP canister cause short filling; more often on the earlier cars it is either the lower filler flap not opening properly (you should hear a pronounced "click" when you push the upper flap open with your finger, or lines running to the fuel pump in the tank physically blocking the lower flap.
  13. Simple: Porsche has used a couple of different designs EVAP systems over the years which are not interchangeable.
  14. Instead of calling someone that will ship you aftermarket parts and claim they are "OEM", why not call Sunset Porsche (board sponsor) and give them your VIN number which will tell them exactly which one you need? 503.718.6060
  15. Realistically, if you are going to remove the IMS flange, you may as well do the IMS retrofit as you would also need new seals on the flange if you pull it. Once the flange is properly removed, you are less than 30 min. from completing a retrofit. Another small, but very salient point is that most people looking at their first IMS bearing really have no idea if it is tight, loose, or somewhere in between, and that would be best determined with it out of the shaft, which would preclude reusing it.
  16. Again, the bolts and washers/lack of washers varies with 986/996 and model years; Porsche is famous for changing bolt styles without notice. Just put em back as you found them.......
  17. Welcome to RennTech Most common problem is with the shifter itself or the cable coming loose at the gearbox. Further investigation is required.
  18. The Boxster and 996 bolt layouts are essentially the same, with the exception that some Boxsters left out one bolt from the factory. M10x40mm triplesquare (999-073-118-09) B- M12x1.5x100mm (999-072-010-09) C- M12x1.5x100mm (999-072-010-09) with 15x28x3.5 washer (N-905-028-02) D/G- M12x1.5x70mm (999-072-008-09) E/F- M12x1.5x90mm (999-072-009-09) H- M10 hex nut (900-377-011-09) attached to M10x30mm stud in transmission case (999-218-088-09) You also just discovered why we suggest DIY projects like this number the bolts with a silver marker before removing them.............................
  19. Exactly what Loren noted above, you probably need a new converter: P1192 - Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch: Mechanical Malfunction Possible Symptoms Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch slipping Possible Causes Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch faulty Valve Body faulty Internal Failure in Transmission Possible Solutions Check Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch Slip
  20. Yes, it should be running anytime the key is switched on.
  21. Yes, I have done transmission adaptation relearns using their software, we however use the more expensive "Pro" version, which has features that the "enthusiast" version does not have. We have had others tell us they have done it with the lesser version, and the Durametric feature matrix seems to support that.
  22. Welcome to RennTech The Durametric software (enthusiast version) will allow you to reset your transmission adaptation values once the problem is corrected. To reset the transmission adaptation, it would be listed under the "transmission" section in the main selection tree on the left, then either under "commands" or "reset". To my knowledge, disconnection of the battery will not reset this.
  23. You will need to get to the primary cable on the starter; depending upon how the vehicle is equipped, that can sometimes be done without pulling the intake. You are going to need to do a visual to see if you can get access.
  24. Your lobe wear does not look out of the ordinary. Cams are made from cast iron, and develop a shine or wear pattern over time; as long as there is not a ton of ferrous grit in the sump or oil filter, you are good to go.
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