JFP in PA

The only place I would use is Hoffman Automotive Machine, Inc. in Watkinsville GA.

Not a good day. Intermix can come from either a cracked head or block casting, or a blown oil cooler. Pulling and testing the oil cooler is simple and quick, replacing or repairing the head(s) not so much. If it is the cooler, $200 for a new cooler, flush the cooling system a couple of times to clean it out, new coolant and you are back in business. If it is one or both of the heads, it is a bear of a job, and I would start by dropping the engine out to work on it on a stand (doing so is typically quicker than trying to do it in the car). If the head can be repaired, you are still going to pay $1-2K just to fix the head and go through them, which does not cover pulling or refitting the engine, just repair the heads, and there are only a couple of shops I would use for this type of repair. Good luck...............

Year and model please................

The Gibbs DT40 is an excellent street oil, high ZDDP levels, great film strength. We use it extensively in the shop.

The final design IMS bearing tends to fail more on the track than on the street, unlike the earlier design's that did just the opposite, but they still fail with the same catastrophic outcome, albeit it not as large numbers as the first two design bearings. So while the third design IMS was better than the earlier versions, basically, any Porsche with an IMS bearing is at some level of failure risk, with only the level of probability varying, which is why the factory designed the IMS out of the engines in 2009. Cylinder liner scoring is not as widely recognized a problem, and there is little public data collection to point to a specific cause or level of failures. Most seem to point to two suspects: Cold weather and oil. All boxster design engine's can load the thrust side of the piston skirt on start up, and with excess fuel wash of the cylinders in the cold, combined with many modern oils no longer having useful ZDDP anti wear levels, liner wear can occur over time. Interestingly, other non boxster engines such as the Audi's also suffer similar cylinder scuffing, so it is not just limited to Porsche's.

Yes, I would replace it; the water pump is a maintence item, so it should always be replaced. I would replace the chains and get the LN chain tension paddles as well, and I would very carefully go over the oil pump, replacing it if it shows wear. If it is good, I would get the $20 oil pump pressure relief spring and piston update from Porsche, and I would replace the investment cast oil pump drive shaft with the chrome moly unit from LN as well. Basically, anything that could suddenly crap out and ruin an otherwise good day should be done while you have access.

Good move. Also replace your RMS and AOS while the car is apart.

Welcome to RennTech If you have already extracted the IMS bearing from the shaft, you cannot reuse it. The process of extraction damages most of the internal components of the bearings, which will lead to quick failure. If you have not extracted the bearing from the shaft, even though the unit feels relatively smooth means absolutely nothing. I would be willing to bet that there is already no grease inside the bearing, and the seals are hard as well. It would be false economy to not replace it.

In general, dealers will accept your receipts as proof of service, so keep meticulous records. Resetting the service alert requires a Porsche specific scan tool such as the PIWIS or Durametric system. Plastic pans and cam covers are becoming more common with the newer cars. Your oil is cooled by a separate cooler, so the plastic pan should not bother anything. Oil is a "hot button" topic, so while I do agree with the suggested 5W-40 weight, I would choose Joe Gibbs DT 40 due to its high levels of ZDDP.

Your shifter is cable operated, if they become detached at either end, this is what you get. Try looking at the transmission end first.

P0650 is a fault with the CEL itself: P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Open Circuit P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Below Limit P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Above Limit Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for continuity. 1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 2. Remove connector X 2/3. 3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and to X 2/3 on pin side, pin 11. Display: 0 - 5 ohms If infinite ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. 4. Remove connector III of instrument cluster. 5. Connect ohmmeter to X 2/3, sleeve side, and to connector III of instrument cluster, pin 2. Display: 0 - 5 ohms If infinite ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for short to ground. 1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 2. Remove connector III of instrument cluster. 3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and ground. Display: infinite ohms If 0 - 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for short to B+. 1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 2. Remove connector III of instrument cluster. 3. Switch on the ignition. 4. Connect voltmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and ground. Display: 0 V If battery voltage is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. If it is a P0605, you have a much more complicated issue, the DME is dying. In either case, more diagnostics are going to be in order, and if the DME is going it is going to be expensive. Good luck.

As long as the O-ring is in good shape, you should not have to replace it. You should lightly lubricate it with some coolant or some silicone when reconnecting the hose to prevent chaffing it.

Another pathway is to spray the flange with a quality penetrating oil such as Kriol, then put a suitable socket over the flat end and use a large c-clamp to manually press them out. Doesn't always work if they are severely rusted, but many just pop out.

These catch everyone out, the hose has a metal end on it with an O-ring, and the wire device is holding together as a locking system:

They are only sold as kits, try searching for someone selling a used kit, or even renting it online.

Welcome to RennTech Year and model are always useful, and a photo might help as well as I am not sure what you are referring to.

What you probably saw is the silt and debris from the tank that the built in filter stopped before it got to the pump.

St Gobain makes more than one grade of glass for windshield's, as do most other suppliers, as the aftermarket is vastly more price sensitive than the factory. Unfortunately, to get "the real thing", there would be a considerable price premium. Most likely, you have one of the aftermarket versions; but that does not explain your wind noise and fitment issues, that sounds more like a questionable installation technique.

Labor prices are somewhat geographic, so I would suggest talking to your indie about his rates. Realistically, to do this and the clutch should run $2-3K. And while the car is apart, it is an excellent chance to update the RMS and AOS at the same time, basically for the cost of the parts as the labor has already been covered.

Your 2007 car, assuming it has its original engine, is a single row IMS, which had the highest reported rate of failure (8-10%), so I you are looking for modifications to enhance the car and potentially lengthen its lifespan, the IMS retrofit is an excellent place to start. As for failure rates among Tiptronic cars, most statistics seem to fail to account for the fact that there were far fewer Tip cars than manuals. Realistically, the failure rates for both style gear boxes are pretty much the same.

I seriously doubt you would see even half what they claim; making more power with these engine's is both an arduous and expensive process. Again, most after market exhausts are going to make more noise, along with adding teeth rattling drone, with little if any HP. Several touted system actual lose HP on the dyno. Caveat emptor......

Welcome to RennTech Realistically, no. These engines are pretty well set up as delivered, and to gain an additional 78 HP, you are going to need to spend a lot of $. Add in that by far, most advertising grossly over estimates the results of modifications (an example is the cold air intake, your car came from the factory with a cold air intake). We have seen owners spend thousands of $ only to see very meager improvements on the dyno. Save your money and invest it in a Driver Education day at the track to learn how to properly get the most out of what you have already.

Welcome to RennTech Unfortunately, water intrusion into the electronics module under the seats is a well documented problem with these cars, as it is with most modern cabriolets, normally occurring as the result of one or more of the multiple drains built into them becoming clogged by external debris. As this entails owner maintenance (they have always recommended owners periodically check and clean these drains, as noted in owners manuals and service bulletins), Porsche has consistently said it is not a warranty issue. Do a search and you will find innumerable threads about this problem, always ending up in the same place: Clogged drains. While I wish you well in your quest, I'm afraid you may be tilting at windmills on this one, as we have seen it in other brands of vehicles as well.

Could be, but if the radar detector/jammer is no longer in the vehicle, removing them should not be an issue. But a question occurs: Does the vehicle have a cruise control systems that sense how far away the next vehicle is so it can slow automatically? If it does, they could be the sensors for that......

The look like concealed signal pickups for a radar detector.