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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Yes, there is always some fine ferrous material in the system, usually smaller than 8-10 microns, which can actually pass through many oil filters (the OEM filter has a pore diameter of around 30 microns). But that does not mean that they are benign, just slower in how they wear surfaces due to their size. Use of magnets easily remove them and prevent any wear action. Large particles are more pronounced in how they tear up surfaces like bearing shells or cam shafts, and therefore a bigger issue.
  2. Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings, but this is they way we have always worked with the M96/97 engine cars.
  3. I have run an independant shop for many years, and while we do use LN Engineering products based upon their quaility and perfromance, we are not connected in any way. Once we find ferrous metallic grit in the filter and/or sump, we will not move foward with that engine, it either needs to come apart or be replaced (which many people choose as it is often cheaper). Too many people have tried too many times to recover a grit filled engine without doing so and ultimately failed. Based upon those facts, putting new parts into an enigne that most likely is not going to make it very far is simply bad economics, both the labor and the parts are going to end up being wasted.
  4. Once the grit from an IMS failure enters the oil system, it is no longer a viable candidate for a retrofit. At that stage, the engine is not a write off as most of the internal components are still in good shape to be reused, but a rebuild is necessary to prevent any further damage from the debris circulating inside the engine. We have refused to retrofit engine's due to grit, and while the customer's took the cars elsewhere to have it done, some didn't make it 75 miles after the new IMS was installed. Others made it further, but succumbed to rod/main bearing failures, cam shaft and lifter damage, etc., all the result of circulating grit. Ferrous grit running around inside machined surfaces under load is not a good thing, it needs to be completely removed, and the only proven way to do that is pull the engine apart and run it through special cleaning procedure's. Nothing else works. If you are interested in learning more about this, LN Engineering has extensive information on their website.
  5. Unfortunately. the sealed bearings do not stay that way, which is why the oil influx washes the grease away. Add fine ferrous grit to that oil, and the bearing quickly starts machining itself to death. As for using a full flow filter and oil flushes, they may help, but there are far too many little nooks and crannies in these engines where debris can hide for a long time before popping out to kill a rod bearing or two. Even during a normal (non failure) rebuild, special cleaning systems are necessary to get all of the junk out of these cases.
  6. If the engine had a bad IMS bearing, and someone simply put a new bearing in it without totally cleaning out the entire engine first, they were asking for another failure. As part of a pre-installation inspection, we pull apart the oil filter and remove the sump cover on every engine, if there are ANY signs of ferrous metallic grit, we will not install a new bearing. The engine needs to come out and apart first as once there is grit inside the engine it is going to kill the new bearing.
  7. What it sounds like is whoever installed the recent equipment may have buggered the top set up, either putting something in the way, or somehow altering the mechanism.
  8. I would check the fuel system for correct pressure and delivery rates, and also check the CPS.
  9. It doesn't take much. Something as seemingly innocuous as reproducing a page from a car's owners manual is enough to get the lawyers knocking on your door.
  10. A lot of things in the public domain are not legitimate, particularly on the internet. Posting such things puts RennTech at risk of being shut down, which is why we cannot permit it.
  11. "Copyrighted material: By registering here you agree not to post (or link to) any copyrighted material unless the copyright is owned by you or by this site. Repeat offenders will be banned from this site and their accounts, as well as the offending material, will be deleted."
  12. Guys, you are posting copyrighted intellectual property of others, something you specifically agreed not to do when you joined RennTech....................... Please remove the links or we will...................
  13. These pumps often take a "set" to the housing and need to be "coaxed" out. Don't go animal on it, but work it from side to side until it loosens up.
  14. Welcome to RennTech Yes, the immobilizer/security system computer does not recognize the pill in the key, because the "handshake" is programed into the 2.7 DME. This would require reprograming the RFID code into the 3.2 DME, but without the original key code tags, is not possible. You will need to flatbed the vehicle to a dealer with a PIWIS unit, buy two new keys with the code tags, and have them reprogram the DME, or get the entire ignition switch and keys from the donor car and swap them over.
  15. As you will need to disassemble the strut to replace the bearing, the bump or any other bits that are showing wear are fair game as well.
  16. Basically. Slow speed grinding noises are quite often these things giving up the ghost. You can test them by putting your hand or a stethoscope on each one and having someone turn the wheel.
  17. More likely, it is the upper strut bearing.
  18. The only way to rule out the DME is through diagnostic's, so there is going to be at least some $ involved. And just as a side note on the subject, in all the years we have been working on these cars, I have seen very few DME failures, fewer than I can count on one hand.
  19. Even a used DME (same version number) would require reprograming by a PIWIS system. The DME in these cars is the center of everything, even your odometer miles are stored in the DME.
  20. See the above; testing or replacement is going to require the Porsche diagnostic system......................and bring money as a new DME is about $2K sitting in a box on the counter, plus and hour or two of programing time, if it really is the DME.......
  21. Don’t take this the wrong way, but I think you have too much time on your hands. First of all, being a shop, we see a lot of different examples of just about every car, and basically none of them sit completely level. Depending upon suspension age, tire wear, modifications, and allowed factory tolerances, they are all leaning one way or another slightly. Having said that, what you really need to determine is how level is the spot you park the car at home, and if that area is relatively level (again, almost none are absolutely level), and use that as your oil level reference point. With the car sitting in that spot, and stone cold (like having sat there overnight), your oil level should be about one bar below the top mark. Once it has checked out there, ignore what the level sensor says at any other location, or at any other time than the first thing in the morning, stone cold conditions. People seem to forget that it can take hours for all of the oil to drain back into the sump after even a short running period, and oil in the sump takes hours to cool back down after running, so worrying about different readings in different locations, or after the car has been run is not a useful exercise.
  22. That is going to require access to a Porsche factory diagnostic system such as the current PIWIS or earlier PST II.
  23. Opps! You are correct, I was thinking of the older single row classic which reused the OEM snap ring?. The outter clip on the single row pro is another reason the Faultless tool is required for installation as it hold that clip in the retracted position until if finds the shaft grove during installation, and is the only tool that can do that during installation.
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