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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    More likely, it is the upper strut bearing.
  2. JFP in PA
    The only way to rule out the DME is through diagnostic's, so there is going to be at least some $ involved. And just as a side note on the subject, in all the years we have been working on these cars, I have seen very few DME failures, fewer than I can count on one hand.
  3. JFP in PA
    Even a used DME (same version number) would require reprograming by a PIWIS system. The DME in these cars is the center of everything, even your odometer miles are stored in the DME.
  4. JFP in PA
    See the above; testing or replacement is going to require the Porsche diagnostic system......................and bring money as a new DME is about $2K sitting in a box on the counter, plus and hour or two of programing time, if it really is the DME.......
  5. JFP in PA
    Don’t take this the wrong way, but I think you have too much time on your hands. First of all, being a shop, we see a lot of different examples of just about every car, and basically none of them sit completely level. Depending upon suspension age, tire wear, modifications, and allowed factory tolerances, they are all leaning one way or another slightly. Having said that, what you really need to determine is how level is the spot you park the car at home, and if that area is relatively level (again, almost none are absolutely level), and use that as your oil level reference point. With the car sitting in that spot, and stone cold (like having sat there overnight), your oil level should be about one bar below the top mark. Once it has checked out there, ignore what the level sensor says at any other location, or at any other time than the first thing in the morning, stone cold conditions. People seem to forget that it can take hours for all of the oil to drain back into the sump after even a short running period, and oil in the sump takes hours to cool back down after running, so worrying about different readings in different locations, or after the car has been run is not a useful exercise.
  6. JFP in PA
    That is going to require access to a Porsche factory diagnostic system such as the current PIWIS or earlier PST II.
  7. JFP in PA
    Opps! You are correct, I was thinking of the older single row classic which reused the OEM snap ring?. The outter clip on the single row pro is another reason the Faultless tool is required for installation as it hold that clip in the retracted position until if finds the shaft grove during installation, and is the only tool that can do that during installation.
  8. JFP in PA
    When the Faultless tool is pressing the new bearing into the shaft, because of how well it aligns the bearing with the shaft, relatively little effort is required; it just cranks in using a ratchet handle. When the bearing bottoms out, suddenly you can’t turn the tool any longer. Simple and effective. Think of the Faultless Tool as being much like a large C clamp, when it bottoms out, the force required to turn further rises exponentially. Remove the tool and you should just see the snap ring groove inside the shaft, just ahead of the bearing. Insert and seat the snap ring, and the new bearing is in. It is just that simple. That is why the tool has the name it has, it is truly Faultless. With the engine locked at TDC, the one bank locked, and the hydraulic tensioners removed, the engine isn’t going anywhere. Never be concerned about asking lots of questions, I worry far more about people who don’t ask............
  9. JFP in PA
    Because of how the Faultless tool works, cooling the bearing is not required. If you feel better doing so, go ahead and cool it, but it is not necessary. The single row pro bearing is a much more complex design bearing in order to get the two rows into the same space, which makes it susceptible to damage if installed incorrectly. The Faultelss tool prevents this from happening. When to stop is simple: The bearing bottoms out in the shaft, and the tool will not go further. You are done. The cam holding notches are different on the three chain engines, so no, the five chain tool will not work, and is in fact not needed. Follow the instructions and you will be fine. DO NOT USE SET SCREWS ON THE IMS SHAFT. If there was one thing I and other shop owners wish had never been published, it would be this item. Pushing on the IMS shaft gear with set screws can dislodge and even cock the chain gear, at which point you are totally screwed, and the engine has to come out and apart. We have had multiple cars flatbedded to the shop after their owners did this. Don’t do it. The result is going from and upgrade to an totally engine rebuild.
  10. JFP in PA
    To my knowledge, there are no connections for PASM in the engine bay. Unless your “techie” has one of the Porsche specific diagnostic systems, he won’t be able to help you as the systhem controller uses proprietary Porsche software.
  11. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech First place to start is get the car scanned with a Porsche specific diagnostic tool (PST II, PIWIS, Durametric) to find out what is going on.
  12. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Now you know why we recommend a full pre purchase inspection by an independent shop. Misfires are probably coils and/or plugs. The P5400 is a “sport mode” fault that will require diagnostics with a Porsche specific scan tool to determine what is going on.
  13. JFP in PA
    There were multiple variations of this trim, different by year, model (cab vs. coupe, turbo vs. non Turbo, etc.) which is probably why there was never a clear write up. Personally, I just put my glasses on, provide lot of light, and have at it. None of them are overly complicated or tricky, just lots of push pins, clips, and screws that typically reveal themselves.
  14. JFP in PA
    A lot of disassembly and clips, I have never seen a step by step for this:
  15. JFP in PA
  16. JFP in PA
    If you are sure your fuel pump relay is good, and the pump turns on when jumpered, I am back to the immobilizer, which shuts the fuel and ignition off if it fails to see engine rotation. Do a search here for checking the CPS, there are a couple of simple resistance test you can run. At room temp the resistance between terminal 1 and 2 should be between 800 and 1000 ohms according to Porsche diagnostic manual. The full diagnostic should call for removing the DME and check the continuity between pin 1 of sensor and pin 32 of DME, then pin 2 of sensor and pin 46 of the DME. Also check resistance between pins 1&3, then 2&3, of the sensor. They should read infinity. If those check out, replace the sensor.
  17. JFP in PA
    Put the immobilizer back into the car and try cranking it while measuring the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, and tell us what the fuel pressure reads.
  18. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech One of the most common hot start related issues is the crank position sensor or CPS. Located on the side of the bell housing, it is a Hall type sensor that tends to become heat sensitive as it ages.
  19. JFP in PA
    Sometimes the easiest answer is also the correct one. Glad you got it sort, now go drive it like you stole it!
  20. JFP in PA
    First of all, over filling these cars, regardless of the IMS bearing, is a bad idea. When the system is over filled, you only know it is over, but not by how much. It could be 1/2 quart, or three quarts, the display will say the same thing. With IMS bearings capable of exterior lubrication, such as the LN ceramic hybrid, do so using the oil mist inside the rear case area; the level of he oil is irrelevant to this process. What is actually more important to the IMS is how fresh the oil is and how much ZDDP it contains. A couple on notes in passing: The factory IMS bearing does not lubricate properly regardless of the oil level as it is not designed to allow outside oil in, so again the oil level is irrelevant. Second, you should not put your car away for the winter with used oil in it. Used oil typically carries both fuel and water in it, which accelerates the oil break down and can even lead to internal componet corrosion. Put it away with fresh oil in it.
  21. JFP in PA
    No, you have to have the original tag to program the system.
  22. JFP in PA
    The lack of an immobilizer signal to the DME shuts off multiple circuits to prevent the car from starting.
  23. JFP in PA
    An additional thought: There is a small glass fuse in the box under the seat, have your guy check it as if it was blown, the box is dead.
  24. JFP in PA
    Works this way: When you insert your key into the ignition, a pill in the key is read by the box under the seat, which then sends a code to the DME, allowing the car to start. If someone tried to hot wire the car, or use a bogus key, no pill, no read, no signal to the DME, car won't fire.
  25. JFP in PA
    That maybe, but the fault codes say it is the central locking system, you need to figure out what was done during the radio install that upset it. It would also be helpful if you listed the "P" codes as well.
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