JFP in PA

As the code sequence for a 2002 Boxster does not go that high, I have to ask what scan tool are you using to see the codes?

That does not look factory.

Welcome to RennTech Suggest you check what oil is in the engine and consider moving to one with a higher film strength like Joe Gibbs DT40.

If the AOS is working properly, removing the oil fill cap creates a vacuum leak which upsets the idle.

Could be, you need to see if the code returns.

Some AOS units, particularly aftermarket units, are prone to early failures. Some are actually bad right out of the box.

One of the advantages to the Sunset website is that you can enter the car’s VIN and get a run down on the actual parts on the car plus any updated items.

OK, your data got me wondering why your car used the Pentosin FFL fluid in the gear box, so I just did some research on the ZF PDK variants, and found that your car has an unusual version of the PDK. From ZF engineering literature: "In fact, two separate DCT ranges or 'platforms' have been developed by ZF, both fitted with wet clutches, for use in Porsche's various longitudinal applications. The first is for use in the mid- and rear-engine sports cars (the 911, the Cayman and the Boxster), while a completely different platform has been developed for use in the larger Panamera. For each platform, two different torque options are available, with the 500N.m versions using an 'ND2015' clutch pack, and the 780N.m versions using an 'ND2216' clutch pack, both supplied by ZF Sachs...… .....In terms of the oil circuit itself, two completely different approaches have been employed for the two platforms. The 7DT45 and 7DT70 have two oil circuits, and hence two different oils; the first is Pentosin FFL-3 for the clutch and hydraulics, and the second is ExxonMobil Mobilube PTX 75W-90 for the gear-set and bevel gear. The oil levels have been kept as low as possible, to reduce churning losses for those moving parts that are immersed in oil. Conversely, the 7DT75 has a single oil circuit and a dry sump (to minimize churning losses), with an 'active lubrication system' to feed oil to each gear-set and clutch. This version uses only the Pentosin FFL-3 lubricant, which was developed exclusively for the ZF DCTs. One of the main reasons for using a single oil circuit is that clutch cooling is required at both ends of the transmission, for the main dual-clutch module and for the hang-on clutch used in the four-wheel-drive variant. This would have presented significant sealing complications had multiple circuits been chosen." So your model year uses a wet clutch setup that is different from all other PDK's in that it shares the gearbox oil with the clutch, and there is no separate clutch oil circuit in the system, which eliminates the need for the PIWIS during service.

The later cars have an easily removable trim panel that holds the lighter, making the upgrade a 15 min. job.

Just be aware that the rear S brakes will not work on the base car without changing out the rear hub carriers. The reason for this is that the ebrakes on the base car are a different diameter than the S, so the ebrake will not work unless your change over the carriers.

That manual is for the 911/boxster variant, but the transmissionism very similar, with a wet clutch. The total oil volume is different on your vehicle, but it still has a wet clutch that needs to be serviced more often than the gearbox.

Your lighter is still mounted in a removable trim panel that comes out of the dash, making it accessible. Do you have a photo of your lighter layout? If it is above the radio, then you may be correct:

Actually, if you just pop off the horseshoe surround, you don't need to remove the radio.

The PDK requires two different lubricants, one for the wet clutches, the other for the gearbox itself. Both should be changed. As very limited information is available for the PDK, the OEM lubes would be the best choice. From the manual: PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years The following procedure is from the 2009 Technik Service information book:Oil filling The correct hydraulic oil level is important for operating the transmission without running into problems. The following preconditions must be met in order to check or correct the oil level:• Engine must be idling• Vehicle must be horizontal in both longitudinal and transverse axis• Hydraulic oil temperature between 86° F. and 104° F. (30° C and 40° C)• Selector-lever position “P”• Clutch cooling volume flow must be switched off (using PIWIS Tester in Oil fill mode)• Retain the described states for approx. 1 minute to allow the oil to settle• Open screw plug on oil overflow bore and collect emerging oil until only drops of oil are emerging• Once there is no more oil emerging, top up the clutch fluid until oil emerges at the oil overflow bore• To avoid damaging the clutches, the procedure must be completed within 5 minutes(PIWIS Tester exits Oil fill mode automatically after 5 minutes)The correct oil level is also important to avoid damaging the gear wheels in the transmission. There is also an overflow bore for this, which is located on the opposite side. The oil level can be checked in the usual way here.

What about the clutch fluid? It is supposed to be changed twice for every time the gear box is changed once.

You need to understand how a shop works. The labor rate is split between the shop and the tech, but with the shop having the largest sunk costs in the facility, they need to make it up on the parts via markup on parts that Porsche already overcharges for, or they could not keep their doors open (it is not unusual for a shop to have a monthly electric bill in the hundreds of dollars, even before they switch the AC on; and that is just the start of monthly shop overhead costs. If they have a PIWIS, that is setting them back $1500 a month just to have it sitting there). While a 50% may be slightly high for parts markup, it is not completely out of line for a well equipped and staffed shop.

It is a VW adaptor.

One or more plugs might look marginally cleaner than the others. It does not take a lot of coolant in the combustion to make it smell, but fortunately there are relatively easy tests like seeing if the cooling system holds pressure, or testing the space above the coolant in the surge tank for combustion by products that will confirm or eliminate an internal leak.

Sweet smells in the exhaust are oftent due to coolant being burned in the combustion process. I would have the entire cooling system pressure tested as soon as possible. This should not be treated lightly as it will only get worse.

In reality, there is little, if any, evidence that either of these filters flow any better than factory over time, and they do let a lot of crap get by in the process. They do make more noise, if that is a factor.

Congratulations! That will be one Hell of a daily driver...………….

Welcome to RennTech Sounds more like your have an ignition misfire. Any codes?

Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.

Only problem is that the cables corrode internally(where it cannot be seen) on these cars, leading to high resistance and lowered voltages. I would run a voltage drop test across both primary cables; if you see more then 0.5 V drop, you need cables. I would also load test both the battery and alternator, which may have a weak diode that would only show up under load.

The primary reason these tubes crack is that they become brittle from heat over time. Trying to patch a failed unit is an exercise in futility, it is going to fail again somewhere else. Replace it.