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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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Winter upgrade list??
JFP in PA replied to JG07997's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)
As I noted on another forum, your expectations for power gains are probably a bit of a pipe dream. Normally aspirated Porsche engines have historically showed only very small gains in either torque or HP from the type of modifications you are considering when validated in dyno testing, and even these small gains only occurred at the very high end of the RPM curves. While the marketers of these products typically make substantial improvement gains, before and after dyno runs have not born out their claims. To get the 40-50 HP you are seeking is going to require significant internal engine modifications, which is not going to come cheaply. -
The car will throw codes.
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Well, as your original post stated “to remove the calipers for painting”, I assumed you were doing exactly that. If you loosen the caliper bolts, you will still need new ones as they are single use only, and you will still need a torque wrench to properly tighten the new ones. Personally, I would completely remove the calipers to properly clean, prep, and paint them to prevent any chance of future paint peeling; but that is just the way we roll in my shop.
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986 Camshaft Timing Sprocket Adjuster (Bracket)
JFP in PA replied to kbrandsma's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I believe that part is discontinued as an individual part, and may now only be available with the gear for around $150 under part number 996-105-178-54. You would probably be better off checking around for a used one. I believe they were the same up until 2004 on the Boxster. But if you can't find one, Sunset can get you the new number. -
When you take something apart, then put it back together, and it does not work properly, your safest starting point to fix this latest issue it is to go back to what you just worked on.
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Again, how low the pressure is proportional to how big is the leak. A small mistake can create a relatively large leak. The solenoid plunger installed wrong is a perfect example; goes together fine, but reroutes the oil pathway.
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Anything that is "fed with oil" can be a leak point causing your loss of pressure. Think about it for a moment, particularly if they were one of the components recently touched.
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Are you absolutely sure that your VarioCam component's (solenoids, actuators, etc.) were installed correctly? That system runs off oil pressure, so it could be the source of your issue.....
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Can't tell from your photos, but that one may be the factory unit. In any case, the sale of aftermarket intake pieces for these cars grossly overstate their performance enhancements; the factory pipe is just fine.
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That photo is of a cooling system plug, but there are very similar plugs for the oil passages as well. The photo is the first example I could find.
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Depends. Assuming the pump is working correctly, how much pressure will remain in a pressurized system depends upon the size (read cross sectional volume) of the leak. Small leak = reduced pressure, big leak = no pressure.
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OK, then you need to start looking at other suspects. There are a series of hammer in plugs, much like freeze out plugs, in your engine's oiling system; one of these may have popped loose. It find it without taking the engine apart (which you may end up doing anyway, depending upon where it is), you need to connect an oil filled pressure chamber to the oiling system and then pressure the oil backwards into the system, looking for where the oil comes pouring out.
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You would need one specific to the turbo. The K&N unit adds nothing in the way of power by the way...……..
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You will have no oil pressure, which is also what you would have if something was holding the piston off its seat. If you pull and open the oil pump cassette, you can inspect the gears for pitting or chipping, which would also reduce or kill oil pressure, and check the oil pump drive shaft which is an investment cast piece that is well know for failing. If the drive shaft has crapped out, LN engineering sells a chrome moly replacement that will outlive the car.
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You need to look at your oil pump, particularly the pressure by pass assembly. If metal was circulated, it could have either destroyed the pump gears or jammed open the by pass.
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You are going to need a set of metric flare nut wrenches to undo the flex lines: You will need to buy or fabricate line plugs for each brake line to prevent the system gravity draining while the calipers are off. You will also need new caliper bolts as they are single use, high temp anti seize compound for the same, and a suitable torque wrench to reinstall the calipers.
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Cheapest thing in that transmission is the fluid; it becomes exponentially expensive from there...………..
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These are the same people that tell you it is OK to change your oil at 15-20K mile intervals. We change our customer's Tip fluid around 40K miles, and what we drain out looks absolutely awful.
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Should have been changed 20K miles ago...……...
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7.5 ft. lbs. = 90 inch pounds. All torque measuring equipment tends to be more inaccurate at or near its upper or lower measuring limits, so for anything less than 15 ft. lbs. I would suggest going to an inch pound tool.
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You should be using an inch pound torque wrench for values this low, ft. lb. wrenches tend to be inaccurate at such low values.
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Not really, that is why your body shop took a short cut.
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The bolts pass through the IMS flange cover and into rather soft alloy threads, so you may want to take a close look at those. I do need to add that something sounds wrong here; normally the flange cover simply drops into place with only slight hand pressure, and then the three cover bolts (coated with sealant) spin in with just two fingers. So I have to ask: Are you sure your IMS shaft is still centered in the opening? And what torque are you trying to apply to these fasteners?
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The PTFE seal comes with a blue/green protective insert in it that is remove by the factory tool during installation: This seal MUST be inserted evenly and to the correct depth or it will leak and may even pop out. The factory tool presses it in evenly across the circumference and stops it at the correct install depth.. If you feel you may have distorted it during the install, I would recommend canning it and starting over with a new one. They are not expensive, but doing this over again because it leaked is not a good use of your time.
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Locking camshaft on bank 1 996
JFP in PA replied to Dan C's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
If you have a three chain motor, you should be using the correct long cam locking tool, which has a cam tab at both ends: If you cannot get the tool inserted, try rotating the engine (clockwise only, by hand) and see if it fits then. You may have the engine 180 degrees off.
