JFP in PA

ANY factory reman engine produced after 2004 carries the over sized and non serviceable IMS bearing. You can confirm this by looking at the center bolt nut, if it is 22 MM, it’s the oversized bearing as that was the only version to use the size bolt. If you get the engine number off the sump rail, it should contain the letters “AT”, and can be decoded to reveal its year of reman.

Or you can buy the real thing from board sponsor Sunset Porsche for $18. Sunset Porsche

And yet people regularly argue here and elsewhere that you can put a new bearing in an engine already full of metal and get away with it.

If you want to see the perfect example of aftermarket crap, look at the AOS. We have seen units that were stone dead right out of the box. So imagine how good you are going to feel about saving a few bucks after you spend a couple of knuckle busting hours to put it into the car, only to find out it is useless.

+1. We have simply moved away from most aftermarket parts for these cars, simply to avoid "come backs" caused by inferior components. We have taken to telling customers that if they insist upon aftermarket parts to save money, they should take the car else where.

I have not seen a tank threads strip, so I tend to doubt that. I would try another new cap, being sure it is a factory cap and not aftermarket; we have had no luck with aftermarket.

The Stant 12016 adaptor is correct for your vehicle. You may simply have a bad tank cap; if its part number does not end in “-04”, I would replace it. You may have also gotten air entrapped in your cooling system, which will need to be bled out before the system will be happy.

Could be either one, we wait till it's apart and see what is in there.

That is because it is pressed on. You will need the correct pully puller to get it off, and another tool to get it back on.

The module will need to be coded to the car if it is replaced.

Not surprisingly, if you follow these manuals instructions and take your time, it is really not that difficult. Most people that we see in trouble "after the fact" either did not follow the instructions, or decided for unknown reasons to take a short cut. Follow the instructions and you will be fine.

Please do not bump, it is against the forum rules you agreed to when you joined.

Couple of possibilities, both actuator's, or solenoid's. are jammed, or the engine has jumped time. I can personally say that I've never seen this type of problem on both banks simultaneously, so you need to move forward with a diagnostics plan to evaluate the component's involved as "parts swapping" will get very expensive, very quickly...….

If you really have 25 degrees of continuous cam advance, your VarioCam is locked in the advanced mode which is the probable cause of all of the codes except the Immobilizer fault.

The adaptors are often specific to the pressure tester brand. The one used to attach to the surge tank is a VW type.

I would suggest you contact LN Engineering in Momence, IL ((815) 472-2939). These are the people who developed the Nickies liners and do a super job.

Welcome to RennTech I seriously doubt it, but as it would be your labor only it would be worth a try to see if it corrects the issue. You can also do this with the Durametric system.

Please do not "bump", it is against the forum rules you agreed to when you joined.

No, they are not: Main article: Torx Torx[edit] Torx driver The hexalobular socket screw drive, often referred to by the original proprietary brand name Torx ( /ˈtɔːrks/) or by the alternative generic name star drive, uses a star-shaped recess in the fastener with six rounded points. It was designed to permit increased torque transfer from the driver to the bit compared to other drive systems. The drive was developed in 1967[45] by Camcar Textron.[46] Torx is very popular in the automotive and electronics industries because of resistance to cam out, and extended bit life, as well as reduced operator fatigue by minimizing the need to bear down on the drive tool to prevent cam out. A tamper-resistant Security Torx head has a small pin inside the recess. Owing to its six-fold symmetry, a Torx driver can also be used as an improvised substitute for a hex driver, although careful sizing is critical to prevent stripping the socket. Triple-square[edit] The triple-square, also known as XZN, is a type of screw drive with 12 equally spaced protrusions, each ending in a 90° internal angle. Common sizes are 6, 8, 10, and 12 mm. The name derives from overlaying three equal squares to form such a pattern with 12 right-angled protrusions (a 12-pointed star). In other words, three Robertson squares are superimposed at a successive 30° rotation. The design is similar to that of the double-square—in both cases, the idea being that it resembles a square (Robertson) but can be engaged at more frequent angles by the driver bit. These screws can be driven with standard Robertson bits. The 12-pointed internal star shape superficially resembles the "double hex" fastener head, but differs subtly in that the points are shaped to an internal angle of 90° (derived from a square), rather than the 120° internal angle of a hexagon. In practice, drivers for the fasteners may or may not interchange, but should be examined carefully for proper fit before application of force. A hex key should not be used where a key of square cross-section is the correct fit. Triple-square drive fasteners have been used in high-torque applications, such as cylinder head bolts and drive train components. The fasteners involved have heads that are hardened and tempered to withstand the driving torque without destroying the star points. They are commonly found on German vehicles such as Audi, BMW, Opel, Mercedes, Porsche and Volkswagen.[43]

Powder coating is much more durable than any form of paint. Snap On carries the socket you are looking for.....

Look under fault codes, if there are none, you are ready to go.

No clip, the plastic internals hold it on. If it comes loose again, it is shot and you need a replacement.

I think at this juncture, you need to reverse pressurize the oiling system and see where it is coming out.

There are orings on the plug tubes that can be replaced, but the cam cover has no gasket, it uses a special sealant compound. If yours have the removable plastic tubes, these and the orings can be replaced without removing the cam cover. If it has the metal tubes, the cam cover needs to come off to replace the seals, but that will require special cam holding tooling to prevent breaking the cams when the cover is removed.

What year and model?