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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You are going to need a set of metric flare nut wrenches to undo the flex lines: You will need to buy or fabricate line plugs for each brake line to prevent the system gravity draining while the calipers are off. You will also need new caliper bolts as they are single use, high temp anti seize compound for the same, and a suitable torque wrench to reinstall the calipers.
  2. Cheapest thing in that transmission is the fluid; it becomes exponentially expensive from there...………..
  3. These are the same people that tell you it is OK to change your oil at 15-20K mile intervals. We change our customer's Tip fluid around 40K miles, and what we drain out looks absolutely awful.
  4. Should have been changed 20K miles ago...……...
  5. 7.5 ft. lbs. = 90 inch pounds. All torque measuring equipment tends to be more inaccurate at or near its upper or lower measuring limits, so for anything less than 15 ft. lbs. I would suggest going to an inch pound tool.
  6. You should be using an inch pound torque wrench for values this low, ft. lb. wrenches tend to be inaccurate at such low values.
  7. Not really, that is why your body shop took a short cut.
  8. The bolts pass through the IMS flange cover and into rather soft alloy threads, so you may want to take a close look at those. I do need to add that something sounds wrong here; normally the flange cover simply drops into place with only slight hand pressure, and then the three cover bolts (coated with sealant) spin in with just two fingers. So I have to ask: Are you sure your IMS shaft is still centered in the opening? And what torque are you trying to apply to these fasteners?
  9. The PTFE seal comes with a blue/green protective insert in it that is remove by the factory tool during installation: This seal MUST be inserted evenly and to the correct depth or it will leak and may even pop out. The factory tool presses it in evenly across the circumference and stops it at the correct install depth.. If you feel you may have distorted it during the install, I would recommend canning it and starting over with a new one. They are not expensive, but doing this over again because it leaked is not a good use of your time.
  10. If you have a three chain motor, you should be using the correct long cam locking tool, which has a cam tab at both ends: If you cannot get the tool inserted, try rotating the engine (clockwise only, by hand) and see if it fits then. You may have the engine 180 degrees off.
  11. The newer design PTFE RMS seal needs to be correctly inserted to 13MM around its entire circumference. A small pick should also tell you if the spiroloc clip is in correctly.
  12. Lits cost what they do because Porsche owns the rights to the design, anyone trying to copy them would get burned in court, hence only the crappy systems which do not impinge on Porsche's design.
  13. I think you will find that most aftermarket HID conversion kits are pretty much junk, either burning out quickly, burning up the factory wire harness, or melting and/or discoloring the external lens. By far, one of the biggest issues is a total lack or any replacement parts. Your halogen lamp housings also do not have the beam focus and cut off system, or leveling control which will also end up with glaring light pattern's to oncoming cars, which is both ticket bait and will cause the car to fail inspection in many states.
  14. Life expectancy of TPMS sensors varies with usage, temperature, etc. Realistic life is probably in the 5-7 year range for most, but could be shorter due to factors mentioned.
  15. You are in a "crapshoot" situation. Technically, the presence of ANY metal in the engine that is ferrous in nature disqualifies the car for a retrofit by LN standards as it only takes one flake to start a series of cascading failures. Some people have gotten away with doing a retrofit on a questionable engine, others have not been as fortunate.
  16. That is the problem with this method: You only know when you are finished.
  17. We see this when the sensor has come into contact with the flywheel, buggering the head of the unit. Your only choice may be to grasp it with pliers and twist back and forth until it pops free. Normally, these things just pop right out as Duncan has noted.
  18. Using the pelican method is at the least rather risky as the set screws are pushing on the IMS shaft gear, which is only a press fit and can be dislodged by this method. If that happens, the engine has to come out and apart to fix it. There are reasons that no one else even suggests this approach.
  19. As long as the copper gasket is the correct diameter and thickness, it should work fine. For future reference, the factory aluminum gaskets cost less than a buck each, and are even cheaper if you buy them by the bag.
  20. If you do a search, someone else experienced something similar and it was a problem with the tool. SIR made good on it and replaced the tool, and the second one worked fine.
  21. Not a problem; as I mentioned, we see this regularly and everyone assumes it is the end of the world when it is just a little pebble.
  22. Welcome to RennTech Check for a small stone in between the rotor and metal splash shield; we see this fairly regularly.
  23. Some Porsche models use a Siemens DME that runs on odd software, limiting what the Durametric system, and many other systems, can do with them. Models with the more conventional DME work just fine with the Durametric system. With time, hopefully workarounds will come out, but that is the nature of these cars
  24. Not easily. The way the system works, when the immobilizer sees the RFID pill in the key, it sends a signal to the DME, which then activates the fuel and ignition systems so the car will start. No signal, no DME response, and no start. As the DME is controlling the ignition timing, spark signal, and the fuel pump, you would need to jury rig multiple systems around the DME, but then you would have no control over ignition timing, idle speed control, etc., as these are all monitored and adjusted by the DME.
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