JFP in PA

I would suggest you contact LN Engineering in Momence, IL ((815) 472-2939). These are the people who developed the Nickies liners and do a super job.

Welcome to RennTech I seriously doubt it, but as it would be your labor only it would be worth a try to see if it corrects the issue. You can also do this with the Durametric system.

Please do not "bump", it is against the forum rules you agreed to when you joined.

No, they are not: Main article: Torx Torx[edit] Torx driver The hexalobular socket screw drive, often referred to by the original proprietary brand name Torx ( /ˈtɔːrks/) or by the alternative generic name star drive, uses a star-shaped recess in the fastener with six rounded points. It was designed to permit increased torque transfer from the driver to the bit compared to other drive systems. The drive was developed in 1967[45] by Camcar Textron.[46] Torx is very popular in the automotive and electronics industries because of resistance to cam out, and extended bit life, as well as reduced operator fatigue by minimizing the need to bear down on the drive tool to prevent cam out. A tamper-resistant Security Torx head has a small pin inside the recess. Owing to its six-fold symmetry, a Torx driver can also be used as an improvised substitute for a hex driver, although careful sizing is critical to prevent stripping the socket. Triple-square[edit] The triple-square, also known as XZN, is a type of screw drive with 12 equally spaced protrusions, each ending in a 90° internal angle. Common sizes are 6, 8, 10, and 12 mm. The name derives from overlaying three equal squares to form such a pattern with 12 right-angled protrusions (a 12-pointed star). In other words, three Robertson squares are superimposed at a successive 30° rotation. The design is similar to that of the double-square—in both cases, the idea being that it resembles a square (Robertson) but can be engaged at more frequent angles by the driver bit. These screws can be driven with standard Robertson bits. The 12-pointed internal star shape superficially resembles the "double hex" fastener head, but differs subtly in that the points are shaped to an internal angle of 90° (derived from a square), rather than the 120° internal angle of a hexagon. In practice, drivers for the fasteners may or may not interchange, but should be examined carefully for proper fit before application of force. A hex key should not be used where a key of square cross-section is the correct fit. Triple-square drive fasteners have been used in high-torque applications, such as cylinder head bolts and drive train components. The fasteners involved have heads that are hardened and tempered to withstand the driving torque without destroying the star points. They are commonly found on German vehicles such as Audi, BMW, Opel, Mercedes, Porsche and Volkswagen.[43]

Powder coating is much more durable than any form of paint. Snap On carries the socket you are looking for.....

Look under fault codes, if there are none, you are ready to go.

No clip, the plastic internals hold it on. If it comes loose again, it is shot and you need a replacement.

I think at this juncture, you need to reverse pressurize the oiling system and see where it is coming out.

There are orings on the plug tubes that can be replaced, but the cam cover has no gasket, it uses a special sealant compound. If yours have the removable plastic tubes, these and the orings can be replaced without removing the cam cover. If it has the metal tubes, the cam cover needs to come off to replace the seals, but that will require special cam holding tooling to prevent breaking the cams when the cover is removed.

What year and model?

As I noted on another forum, your expectations for power gains are probably a bit of a pipe dream. Normally aspirated Porsche engines have historically showed only very small gains in either torque or HP from the type of modifications you are considering when validated in dyno testing, and even these small gains only occurred at the very high end of the RPM curves. While the marketers of these products typically make substantial improvement gains, before and after dyno runs have not born out their claims. To get the 40-50 HP you are seeking is going to require significant internal engine modifications, which is not going to come cheaply.

The car will throw codes.

Well, as your original post stated “to remove the calipers for painting”, I assumed you were doing exactly that. If you loosen the caliper bolts, you will still need new ones as they are single use only, and you will still need a torque wrench to properly tighten the new ones. Personally, I would completely remove the calipers to properly clean, prep, and paint them to prevent any chance of future paint peeling; but that is just the way we roll in my shop.

I believe that part is discontinued as an individual part, and may now only be available with the gear for around $150 under part number 996-105-178-54. You would probably be better off checking around for a used one. I believe they were the same up until 2004 on the Boxster. But if you can't find one, Sunset can get you the new number.

When you take something apart, then put it back together, and it does not work properly, your safest starting point to fix this latest issue it is to go back to what you just worked on.

Again, how low the pressure is proportional to how big is the leak. A small mistake can create a relatively large leak. The solenoid plunger installed wrong is a perfect example; goes together fine, but reroutes the oil pathway.

Anything that is "fed with oil" can be a leak point causing your loss of pressure. Think about it for a moment, particularly if they were one of the components recently touched.

Are you absolutely sure that your VarioCam component's (solenoids, actuators, etc.) were installed correctly? That system runs off oil pressure, so it could be the source of your issue.....

Can't tell from your photos, but that one may be the factory unit. In any case, the sale of aftermarket intake pieces for these cars grossly overstate their performance enhancements; the factory pipe is just fine.

That photo is of a cooling system plug, but there are very similar plugs for the oil passages as well. The photo is the first example I could find.

Depends. Assuming the pump is working correctly, how much pressure will remain in a pressurized system depends upon the size (read cross sectional volume) of the leak. Small leak = reduced pressure, big leak = no pressure.

OK, then you need to start looking at other suspects. There are a series of hammer in plugs, much like freeze out plugs, in your engine's oiling system; one of these may have popped loose. It find it without taking the engine apart (which you may end up doing anyway, depending upon where it is), you need to connect an oil filled pressure chamber to the oiling system and then pressure the oil backwards into the system, looking for where the oil comes pouring out.

You would need one specific to the turbo. The K&N unit adds nothing in the way of power by the way...……..

You will have no oil pressure, which is also what you would have if something was holding the piston off its seat. If you pull and open the oil pump cassette, you can inspect the gears for pitting or chipping, which would also reduce or kill oil pressure, and check the oil pump drive shaft which is an investment cast piece that is well know for failing. If the drive shaft has crapped out, LN engineering sells a chrome moly replacement that will outlive the car.

You need to look at your oil pump, particularly the pressure by pass assembly. If metal was circulated, it could have either destroyed the pump gears or jammed open the by pass.