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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Manually bleeding out these cooling systems is a best a band aid which often does not work completely, we only refill these system under vacuum using the factory Airlift system.
  2. The first thing I would do is a coolant system pressure test to see if the system hold pressure over time (15-30 min.). If it does not hold pressure, your problem may lie deeper in the engine. If it does hold pressure, I would do cooling system atmosphere evacuation, basically pulling a vacuum on the cooling system to see if there are any air pockets trapped in the system. If there are, recharge the cooling system under vacuum and you should be good to go.
  3. Welcome to Renntech Sorry to hear about your IMS issues, but yours is just one of many similar incidents involving what we have come to call the “me too” vendors of retrofit kits. Ever since Jake Raby and Charles Navarro developed the first retrofit systems, a lot of people have jumped on the bandwagon with what appear to be similar offerings, only problem is that while the LN systems were subjected substantial in house testing (often to failure) before being released to the public, most of the “me too” product offerings were not run though similar testing before coming to market. Add in the virtual storm of claims such as “it isn’t the bearing, it’s the lack of lubrication”, and “roller bearings have higher load carrying capacity”; most of which are simply hot air at a minimum. Unfortunately, too many potential customers for retrofits have fallen victim to outlandish claims or lower price points rather than taking a moment to ask some serious questions, like “who has the largest installed base of successful installations”, “who has the facilities to conduct product evaluations and testing”, and who has a long established history of quality products for these engines. As long as I have been involved with the M96/97 engines, I have never been able to understand why anyone would buy such a critical item based solely on price points or marketing hype.
  4. Welcome to Renntech Yes, simple bolt on part available from a dealer.
  5. Board sponsors Sunset Porsche, you can look them up on their parts website. Interestingly, that is not the part number they listed for the GT3, your part number is $660.
  6. Coolant is a lot like oil, you need to collect data on it (pH, clarity, freeze point, etc.) to know when it is on it way out. Realistically, we don't let customer's cars get much beyond 5-6 years, unless our test data tells us it is time earlier.
  7. I think your pricing is way out of line, 2005 GT3 struts retail for $436 each (USD). Without knowing the mileage and history of the car, it would be hard to describe leaking struts as a "weak spot".
  8. I really would not run oil for even 10K, based on UOA's 5-7K is more like it, particularly on engines with known tendency to score the cylinder walls.
  9. Seems the owner's wife has no interest in running the joint, but is asking $3.9 million for the site.
  10. Don't bet on the Tiki Bar, owner recently died and the joint is closed and up for sale.
  11. Hey, "fecal matter occurs", I'm sure you are not the first...………….
  12. Small world. While it is currently closed for Jan and Feb for some renovations, visit the museum when you get the chance, particularly if you have kids, as it is focused on education about the heritage, history, and wildlife of the Chesapeake of southern Maryland, much of which has disappeared over the last fifty years. And there are several excellent seafood restaurants on Solomons Island as well. http://www.calvertmarinemuseum.com
  13. Believe it or not, I pass through your way just about every month. My missus and I are major supporters of the Calvert Marine Museum in Solomons, MD, and in particular their North American River Otter program. We spend time each month volunteering at the facility, doing food prep for all the creatures in their aquarium section, and playing with our three favorite fur-balls, Chessie - Grace, Chumley, and Calvert:
  14. Well, after more than four decades, you pick up a thing or two, even if it is just the oil absorbed into your forehead. Hazelton is a bit north of us, about an hour or so. We are in an area so small that we don't even have our own post office, we borrow a neighboring communities PO. Eventually, we will be relocating to SC where I have a vacation home. I intend to keep my hand in with a small (read very small) shop at the house in SC were I will be taking in a couple of "projects" from time to time, but not on a full time basis (the Mrs. would have my head if I did).
  15. I am in PA, and owned my shop for many years, but recently have sold the main business to retire (at 72 years, you get tired of oil dripping in your face).
  16. When you do the pressure kit upgrade, just be sure the original piston comes out (they sometimes stick). If it doesn't drop out, slide a small diameter magnetic pick up tool into the shaft and pull it out (it is steel and will stick to the magnet).
  17. I would do two things: Change the oil and filter, switching the car to Joe Gibbs DT40, which is a 5W-40 full synthetic with high levels of ZDDP. Porsche released an oil pressure "upgrade kit" which consists of a new pressure relief plunger, a longer spring, and an end plug seal. The entire kit sells for around $20 and can be installed at any time (you will only lose about 1 cup of oil out of the pump), but this was designed to raise the low RPM pressure a bit. Parts: Piston 997.107.125.01 Spring 996.107.127.53 Gasket 996.107.123.50
  18. I'm a little unsure of what you are referring to, so I will assume it is oil pressure. 1.25 bar is around 18 PSIG, which could be a little low, but without knowing the weight and condition of the oil would be speculation.
  19. Have to agree with Loren, it is a fuel issue. I would suggest leaving a fuel pressure test gauge attached to the car after it is shut down, looking to see if the residual pressure leaks down, which is an indication of one or more injectors leaking.
  20. Seriously doubt it.
  21. ALL factory reman engines carry “AT” in the number sequence to indicate it is a factory reman. Yours many simply be a replacement from another source like a wreck.
  22. The sleeves are an alloy of aluminum, with an coating on the inside. LN's are also an alloy, but completely different construction. Bore diameter is 96 MM or 3.78 inches.
  23. I would pretty much forget trying to install new liners yourself, it requires both special equipment and knowledge. LN Engineering is were most shops send their bare engine cases to have new liners installed.
  24. Not without the year and model as they are not all the same. When you call the dealer, have your VIN handy and they will set you up.
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