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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. For years, shops like mine have tried to find an alternative method of seeing the IMS bearing cover on 2000-2001 and 2005 engines without having to take the thing apart. We even brought in and evaluated "micro" scientific fiber optic camera probes that were on a few millimeters in diameter and cost more than $55K, none of them managed to get down far enough to see it without getting stuck. We never found a way to see the cover without taking the car apart. I'm afraid you are on a "fool's errand" here. Bite the bullet and pull it apart.
  2. Be careful, there is extremely limited room for something like a bore scope, even a very small one, and it is very easy to get the probe stuck.
  3. Why not just replace the switch instead of trying to reinvent the wheel? Everything you are attempting equates to a temporary Band-Aid that will eventually fail again. Do it right, do it once.....
  4. Get the battery load tested, that is the "acid" test of its condition. Takes about 5 min.
  5. You will be the first to know if it is. As Mike noted, once it comes off the ledge, it will make quite a racket, and could end up wiping out the CPS if it gets caught up in the shutters on the flywheel.
  6. Be happy, most people inquiring about start/stop want to know if it can be turned off...………...
  7. Just above the sump rail on the right side of the engine: RFM is correct on the single cam sensor.
  8. The claims were nonsense then, and still are today...……….
  9. Not sure you understand how this works: The halogens do not move, the HID low beam does when the module is active. The module is usually in the front trunk area: There have been a couple of variations on this unit, but all are pretty much the same. Before replacing this unit, I would suggest "borrowing" a working unit and testing that; you may have a fault in your wiring preventing it from getting the signal from the lights, but getting it from the Durametric.
  10. Hi Mike. Yes, it applies to both factory and aftermarket installations, providing there is a functioning control unit installed. If the control unit is dead, or if the aftermarket install did not include the controller, the lights won't move.
  11. Yes, the HID beam tilts to fill in the high beam.
  12. Porsche stopped publishing their service manuals around 2004 and switched to an online subscription service for those without a PIWIS unit (it is included with the PIWIS), so there are no reliable sources for legitimate PDF files. Part numbers you can get online from sources like board sponsors Sunset Porsche’s parts website. The Durametric system is hands down the best aftermarket diagnostic tool for Porsche.
  13. Welcome to RennTech THere is an inexpensive factory’s update (pressure relief piston, spring, and plug seal) that sells for about $20 US that addresses this exact issue.
  14. P1531: Camshaft actuator bank 1 triggered, no positive action Open circuit in triggering wire Open circuit in B+ supply Actuator faulty Most likely an electrical issue.
  15. The PIWIS system is the Porsche factory diagnostic system and is only available as a leased unit, first year's lease fee is around $20,000. You will see a lot of clones advertised on the web, most are either a scam, or a very old version of the system.
  16. What year is your car, and does it have the original engine?
  17. I'd start by looking at the central locking system/alarm module under the driver's seat. If it looks like it has been wet, that is your culprit. This is a common problem on cabs/Boxsters when the rain drains plug and flood the box. As yours is a RHD, it may be under the passenger's seat.
  18. There is also the issue of CAN Bus technology, a 2002 cluster would use it where an earlier model year would not, making the swap problematic depending upon the year of the cluster and the car.
  19. Yup, very simple: The cheap Pelican bearing is a single row, steel bearing just like the one that came in single row engines. So if you put it in, you are no better off than what you had in the first place. Pelican only offers this in a single row, so if you have a dual row engine, you trade out the strongest factory bearing for the weakest, which seems totally counter intuitive. The LN system uses a ceramic hybrid bearing that is made to their specification, which is much more durable than the oem bearings, and the reason LN has more than 25,000 successful installations on the road. So you do get what you pays for................
  20. Welcome to RennTech The primary difference between left and right hand drive headlights is the front lens, which is part of the housing; so yes, you will need to replace the entire light, but it is otherwise "plug ang play".
  21. Gibbs DT40, and full synthetic 5W-40 oil that still has a very high ZDDP level and excellent film strength. Your "emissions system" can be replaced in the driveway with hand tools, cylinder liners not so much...……...
  22. Because of the complexity of everything you are planning, I'd drop the engine, it would be quicker in the long term.
  23. Welcome to RennTech Yes. Get the car's cooling system pressure tested, your shop may be correct.
  24. Welcome to RennTech A word of caution about trying to siphone oil out of these engines: Don’t. There are multiple sharp edges that can snag a siphon line, requiring you to pull the sump cover to get it out before it becomes snared in moving parts. Pull your oil filter and replace it with a new one, that will drop the oil about 1/2 L.
  25. The parts are not that expensive, maybe $200 US. As the AOS can fail catastrophicly and hydroolock the engine, I would not delay replacing these parts.
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