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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    What year is your car, and does it have the original engine?
  2. JFP in PA
    I'd start by looking at the central locking system/alarm module under the driver's seat. If it looks like it has been wet, that is your culprit. This is a common problem on cabs/Boxsters when the rain drains plug and flood the box. As yours is a RHD, it may be under the passenger's seat.
  3. JFP in PA
    There is also the issue of CAN Bus technology, a 2002 cluster would use it where an earlier model year would not, making the swap problematic depending upon the year of the cluster and the car.
  4. JFP in PA
    Yup, very simple: The cheap Pelican bearing is a single row, steel bearing just like the one that came in single row engines. So if you put it in, you are no better off than what you had in the first place. Pelican only offers this in a single row, so if you have a dual row engine, you trade out the strongest factory bearing for the weakest, which seems totally counter intuitive. The LN system uses a ceramic hybrid bearing that is made to their specification, which is much more durable than the oem bearings, and the reason LN has more than 25,000 successful installations on the road. So you do get what you pays for................
  5. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech The primary difference between left and right hand drive headlights is the front lens, which is part of the housing; so yes, you will need to replace the entire light, but it is otherwise "plug ang play".
  6. JFP in PA
    Gibbs DT40, and full synthetic 5W-40 oil that still has a very high ZDDP level and excellent film strength. Your "emissions system" can be replaced in the driveway with hand tools, cylinder liners not so much...……...
  7. JFP in PA
    Because of the complexity of everything you are planning, I'd drop the engine, it would be quicker in the long term.
  8. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Yes. Get the car's cooling system pressure tested, your shop may be correct.
  9. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech A word of caution about trying to siphone oil out of these engines: Don’t. There are multiple sharp edges that can snag a siphon line, requiring you to pull the sump cover to get it out before it becomes snared in moving parts. Pull your oil filter and replace it with a new one, that will drop the oil about 1/2 L.
  10. JFP in PA
    The parts are not that expensive, maybe $200 US. As the AOS can fail catastrophicly and hydroolock the engine, I would not delay replacing these parts.
  11. JFP in PA
    Easily, particularly if it is an aftermarket unit; we have seen them fail right out of the box. We use ONLY factory units.
  12. JFP in PA
    Get the factory hoses. While they cost more, the are molded to fit around various components, making them easier to install and maintain. I would also replace the AOS itself at the same time, again using ONLY factory parts.
  13. JFP in PA
    The car calls for an H7 55W bulb. Wattage is the key, as that is also a measure of the amount of heat it generates. Just stick with the factory rated bulb, and stay away from the aftermarket "night vision" style bulbs which actually up the wattage to give more light, but burn the lenses in the process.
  14. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech If there was ever a solution in search of a problem, it is Evans waterless coolant. First of all, it is nearly impossible to get all the coolant out of your car, so that is going to require multiple flushes with their stuff to remove the water. Then you will not get all of that stuff out either. Then you need to add nearly 6 gallons of their coolant. Before even thinking about doing this, I'd sit down and add up what it is going to cost. And, if you ever plan on tracking the car, you will have to drain it out, fill the car with water, and start all over again as many tracks do not allow this stuff due to concerns about leaks getting it onto the surface.
  15. JFP in PA
    You didn't say which year the car is, but most used an H7 bulb.
  16. JFP in PA
    Cylinder scoring is a major problem on all alloy engines, particularly those with DFI fuel systems. It is not just limited to Porsches: Once this happens, you need a rebuild. Some of the major contributors to this is fuel puddling which washes the oil off the walls and piston skirts, again particularly on DFI engines, although it can occur on earlier injection systems as well. Allowing the engine to warm up helps, but the largest corrective measure you can take is quality oil (read high levels of ZDDP) and frequent changes. Sooty tail pipes is an early indication of this type of issue.
  17. JFP in PA
    Anything but a halogen bulb would require projectors, which means either totally different housings, or customizing yours. Just stick with the factory recommended bulbs.
  18. JFP in PA
    You need to be careful about fitting HID lights into housing without the correct projector lenses as they will simply create massive glare for oncoming drivers. In many states, doing this will both make the car ticket bait for cops and will fail state inspection. Both HID and LED's also can create a lot of heat, so their housings need to be designed to handle it.
  19. JFP in PA
    Manually bleeding out these cooling systems is a best a band aid which often does not work completely, we only refill these system under vacuum using the factory Airlift system.
  20. JFP in PA
    The first thing I would do is a coolant system pressure test to see if the system hold pressure over time (15-30 min.). If it does not hold pressure, your problem may lie deeper in the engine. If it does hold pressure, I would do cooling system atmosphere evacuation, basically pulling a vacuum on the cooling system to see if there are any air pockets trapped in the system. If there are, recharge the cooling system under vacuum and you should be good to go.
  21. JFP in PA
    Welcome to Renntech Sorry to hear about your IMS issues, but yours is just one of many similar incidents involving what we have come to call the “me too” vendors of retrofit kits. Ever since Jake Raby and Charles Navarro developed the first retrofit systems, a lot of people have jumped on the bandwagon with what appear to be similar offerings, only problem is that while the LN systems were subjected substantial in house testing (often to failure) before being released to the public, most of the “me too” product offerings were not run though similar testing before coming to market. Add in the virtual storm of claims such as “it isn’t the bearing, it’s the lack of lubrication”, and “roller bearings have higher load carrying capacity”; most of which are simply hot air at a minimum. Unfortunately, too many potential customers for retrofits have fallen victim to outlandish claims or lower price points rather than taking a moment to ask some serious questions, like “who has the largest installed base of successful installations”, “who has the facilities to conduct product evaluations and testing”, and who has a long established history of quality products for these engines. As long as I have been involved with the M96/97 engines, I have never been able to understand why anyone would buy such a critical item based solely on price points or marketing hype.
  22. JFP in PA
    Welcome to Renntech Yes, simple bolt on part available from a dealer.
  23. JFP in PA
    Voltage regulator or failing diode.
  24. JFP in PA
    Board sponsors Sunset Porsche, you can look them up on their parts website. Interestingly, that is not the part number they listed for the GT3, your part number is $660.
  25. JFP in PA
    Coolant is a lot like oil, you need to collect data on it (pH, clarity, freeze point, etc.) to know when it is on it way out. Realistically, we don't let customer's cars get much beyond 5-6 years, unless our test data tells us it is time earlier.
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