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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Welcome to RennTech As Porsche never expected, or wanted, field techs to rebuild these engines, they have never published anything on the process, such as proper bearing clearances or even torque specs. There are sources such as Flat Six (Jake Raby) that run classes on proper engine rebuilding techniques, and have published some information on the topic. If you have suffered an IMS failure, one rebuild item that is critical is to get the engine cases and heads ultra sonically cleaned, as IMS failures result in vast amounts of very small metal particles being all through the engine passages, and proper cleaning and removal is critical as just one particle can trash a fresh rebuild. Good luck...…..
  2. Welcome to RennTech I'd say take it back to where you had the service done.
  3. I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about. Wiring is tested using a digital multimeter looking at continuity, resistance, and voltage readings.
  4. Sounds like he checked the sensor wiring, he needed to check the wires from the sensor going to the DME as well as the out put voltages and voltage curves.
  5. Welcome to RennTech Both codes are for the interruption of the sensor signal, which is more often a wiring harness issue rather than a bad sensor. The diagnostic trees for both codes start with checking the wiring harness, not replacing the sensors.
  6. IMHO, no one is going to be able to bring the gateway, and or the DME, back. The dealer had the factory scan and programming tool, the PIWIS; if they could not recover and recode the system, new and very expensive parts are in your future, along with coding them into the car.
  7. The iCarsoft scan tool is not capable of recoding your car's DME to any other configuration. A defective scan tool may be able to damage the DME or other subsystems in the car, but only a few are able to write code to the DME or modules, such as the PIWIS or PST II.
  8. Not necessarily, modules sometimes have to be recoded and they come back online, but not always. Sometimes they are just dead.
  9. In a word, no. It requires a PIWIS system.
  10. Welcome to RennTech I would ask your tech how he determined the AOS is bad, and what does he base his RMS/IMS seal leakage upon. 20 hours is excessive, more like 8-10 hours is realistic to pull the Tip and replace both the AOS and either the RMS or IMS seals. I would also check with another Porsche oriented shop for a second opinion.
  11. I would only use 263 on fasteners I was never going to remove again, 243 would be a better choice.
  12. Welcome to RennTech These types of issues are typically the result of mechanical "plugging" of the SAI ports on the bank in question. During the rebuild, did you have the heads done by a reputable shop, and did you blow out the SAI passages prior to assembly?
  13. You should install the new dryer just before putting the system under vacuum.
  14. I believe you are referring to the dryer assembly as a filter. I would suggest the best path forward would be to change out the dryer for a new one, close up the system, and pull a very high vacuum on the system for 30 min. to 1 hour to get rid of any moisture. Check the system can hold the high level of vacuum without the pump running for 15-30 min.; if it does hold, start the recharging procedures.
  15. Welcome to RennTech Porsche stopped publishing anything in print with the 2005 model year, switching to an online subscription system for technical information.
  16. If memory serves, the dash cluster send a signal over that wire to "kick off" the alternator charging; you may have a cluster issue, which would explain the temp effect.
  17. Welcome to RennTech Easy: Spend huge amounts of $ (Upwards of $20K) with a leading engine builder like Jake Raby. Swapping factory engines from different years can be a bit of a nightmare with these cars as each model year brings lots of electronic and mechanical changes, all of which will have to be retrofitted to a car that wasn't designed to handle them. While the engine purchase could be cheaper, the labor cost to make it work, plus the "Frankenstein" factor when reselling or trading the car comes into play as well. Proceed cautiously, educate yourself about which engine's are a direct swap, and which ones require considerable work.
  18. Does the voltage gauge have a red warning light located in it? That would be the same indicator.
  19. OK, try this: If you turn the key on without actually starting the motor, and there is no battery light on the dash, the alternator has a bad ignitor and is bad. It would not be the first time I saw a defective alternator right out of the box. Fortunately, there's a definitive test for this as well: 1) disconnect the ignitor wire from the alternator and ground the wire 2) turn the key to on... ALT light in the cluster should come on If it does... the cluster and wiring are OK and the alternator is defective. If it doesn't... there's an issue with the cluster and/or the wiring to the alternator, preventing the alternator from exciting and thus delivering current. You could also take the new alternator to an auto parts store that has a test rig and check it there. Good luck.
  20. P1539 indicates "no active position" on the VarioCam system on bank 2; often an "open circuit" problem (wiring).
  21. Welcome to RennTech No, as long as you follow the rest of LN Engineerings instructions to the letter.
  22. Mice and rats can get just about anywhere in the harness, you simply have to get a good light and start tracing wires. I'd start with the engine bay and any wires under the vehicle first as they are the most accessible to the rodents.
  23. I would start looking at the wiring harness for rodent damage or just age cracking of the insulation on the wires.
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