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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Welcome to RennTech Have you tried inserting a small flat screwdriver into the new switch and turning it to the position that matches the old one? If that does not work, exchange it for a different switch. And a second suggestion is to stop buy parts from Pelican and start buying them from board sponsor Sunset Porsche, where you will always get the real factory parts, unlike Pelican.
  2. You can temporarily hook up the new cluster just to check the oil pressure before installing it.
  3. Up to a point, you still need either a PST II or PIWIS unit to set the mileage as long as the odometer mileage on the replacement cluster is less than 30 miles.
  4. Most likely the vent tube for the battery. Look around the edge of the battery, there should be a small hole the elbow inserts into.
  5. Rather than buy yet another OBD II scanner that cannot read or clear many Porsche codes, get the Durametric which is the best you can get for a Porsche short of the PIWIS system?
  6. I would say the top unit is a knock off. We have had absolutely no luck with aftermarket AOS units, some even failing right out of the box. Considering how annoying they can be to swap out, it ain’t worth the price differential.
  7. Split the nuts with the Dremel, then press out the studs and you are good to install new ones.
  8. If they have button heads on one end like this, they are pressed in:
  9. I think yours are also pressed in...……...
  10. It should be located on the passenger's side in the front trunk (green arrow):
  11. To my knowledge, the Durametric system has never been able to code DRL on a 987 vehicle to do what you want.
  12. No, it means the fuel system is over pressuring at the tank, indicating an EVAP system fault.
  13. Tank leakage diagnostic module has reached upper limit.
  14. This is why I suggested checking the pressure with a known mechanical tester before moving foward. When you say the wire from the sensor to the cluster is good, how did you check it? It is entirely possible the cluster gauge itself is bad. If it is, I don't know of anyone that repairs individual gauges, so you would be up for replacing the cluster, which is coded to the DME, so you are going to need access to a factory computer (PIWIS) to complete the replacement.
  15. Most likely a bad wiper switch on the stalk, but you will need to pull it apart and test it to be sure.
  16. Dump the fuel and all vital fluids and start over. Probably will need a battery as well, and I would check the tires for signs of aging.
  17. Simple: It may not solve your problem. You need to find out where the fuel pressure is venting, say at an injector, and fix it before it causes more problems, like scored cylinders. Simply adding a check valve is a band aid; find the real problem and fix it.
  18. No. The vehicle would need to have the wiring harness for the module, and then be coded with a PIWIS to accept it before it would work. Can be done, but is rather expensive, which is why people go to the aftermarket systems.
  19. Usually, yes. A metal impeller will do unfixable damage to the engine cases, resulting in overheating issues that cannot be fixed, as well as filling the entire cooling system with fine metal dust that is a pain to get out.
  20. I would be smoke testing the system before dropping the tank with the code you have. If you take the time or pay someone to replace a part that is not the actual issue, and before confirming the actual fault, you are going to feel pretty dumb, and we don’t want that happening ?
  21. Rusting trim is usually not a warranty issue unless the dealer wants to cover it under goodwill.
  22. Good call on checking the code by DBJoe996; the code you are seeing is for a gross tank ventilation leak, usually caused by a bad gas cap, detached or leaking vent hose on the EVAP canister or similar hose. It is not for that valve which would be a different code. Start by looking at the seal on your gas cap and looking at the hoses for the EVAP system, which do not require dropping the fuel tank.
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