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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Check and make sure one of the tires is not making contact while turning and backing up.
  2. The correct filter for an early 996 is the 986-307-403-00, which was also used in the Boxster.
  3. Take a moment to remember the sacrifice of those that made what ever you are enjoying possible...…..
  4. Just tell them you have swapped clusters, they should be able to take it from there.
  5. Get the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool (Durametric or PIWIS), the system stores the last 10 alarm faults and will point you to the problem.
  6. You want the cap that ends in -04, 996-106-447-04.
  7. Unfortunately, the problem with DIY on AC systems is the cost of the proper service equipment; to properly vent one of these systems, you need a recovery unit which can cost well north of $3K, a vacuum pump to properly evacuate the system before charging, oil and dye injectors for service, and an accurate pressure gauge system for evaluation its performance. All this hardware is usually well out side the budget of all but the most serious DIY'er.
  8. You risk major problems. If you are unsure how much oil is in the system, it can be flushed clean with a special solvent and than recharged from scratch, but that takes special equipment.
  9. Could be something as simple as a failed AC hose, or it could be the compressor itself. If you are not equipped to handle it, take it to a pro.
  10. It is more than just glare, my license to conduct what you would call an MoT inspection requires me to fail cars with modified headlights or headlights components that lack our DOT approval marking. Police here can also require the vehicle be towed and repaired to factory specs before being allowed back on the roads.
  11. And which contains multiple incorrect assumptions...……………..
  12. Removing the real seal will lubricate the factory bearing without any junk additives.
  13. This is exactly were everyone that thinks they can do better themselves goes wrong. The LN ceramic hybrid bearings cannot be "sourced from hundreds of places for a variety of prices". The LN bearing is the final result of a lot of R&D, trying out various bearing materials until they fail, to identify the best selection of components for the final bearing. And as that design is produced exclusively for them, you are going to have a very difficult time replicating their results Good luck...…………..
  14. If the engine was a 2003 (you can tell from the numbers on sump rail), it would have the small, serviceable single row IMS bearing from the factory. If the paperwork does not mention the IMS, it was not done.
  15. Welcome to RennTech Low apparent oil pressure can have multiple causes; the dash gauge can be bad, the oil pressure sending unit can be bad, and so on. First step is to connect a known mechanical gauge to check the car’s actual pressure. There is even a cheap (around $20) factory kit to update the oil pump pressure control piston and spring to address this exact issue. But first you need to know where the engine really is at. Good luck.
  16. It takes more force than you might expect; the bushing has to move back or the alternator will not come out. Good luck.
  17. PVC pipe has become the substitute for the now $600+ factory tool, which while a true work of engineering art, is hard for any DIY to justify.
  18. No, the PTFE seals goes deeper, not shallower.
  19. Welcome to RennTech Unfortunately, the answer is not really; the volume is preset and not adjustable.
  20. In many states these upgrades are illegal due to excessive glare as the headlight's do not have the correct projectors to create the proper beam cut off. Absolute ticket bait as well.
  21. Possibly the rear window defroster connector for the hard top?
  22. Welcome to RennTech Without the proper diagnostic tools, you are chasing your tail and just swapping parts. Take the car in.
  23. No. The factory filter set up has a seperate by pass valve in the bottom of the plastic cannister which would open if the filter was somehow blocked.
  24. It would not hurt to at least check the balance; "equal length welds' are often very different in weight.
  25. As noted above, P1484 is an indication of high pressure in the EVAP system, an indication that the EVAP system is not working correctly; it does not necessarily mean you should change out a $300+ module until you have determined that it is actually bad. The EVAP system is supposed to get rid of excess fuel vapor into the intake system to burn it off, the leak detection module periodically tests the EVAP system to make sure it is not leaking. The code indicates that the EVAP system pressure is too high, which may be the module, but often is not. The normal way of testing the module is with a smoke test unit to make sure it is closed when it is supposed to be. The attached is the function diagram for the same module on a BMW; as they all work the same way, this should help you understand how this unit functions: How the leak detection module functions
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