Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,732
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    199

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Lean misfires are air leak related (excess air getting into the intake system).
  2. The immobilizer can look clean and still be problematic (cold solder joint, etc.), which requires special equipment to evaluate it. I would go back to the dealer and inquire how they determined the problem, it could still be real. Another possibility is the ignition switch electrical section which is a well known failure point on these cars.
  3. Welcome to RennTech Could be a lean misfire, I'd pull a plug or two, looking to see of they are overly white, sign of lean condition.
  4. Welcome to RennTech Wet immobilizers are a common every day problem with the 986/987/996 cars. You may be able to save yours by having someone like the ECU Doctors have a look at it; otherwise you are limited to trying to find the immobilizer, DME, keys, ignition, and door locks that all match from another car. Either way, it is going to cost...……….
  5. Doesn't matter; if they pulled the car up by one of the tie rods, you probably need a new one as it is probably slightly bent, and a front end alignment. Tow hooks exists for a reason...……………….
  6. NEVER do that. Get a bigger torque wrench, which has a longer handle for just this reason. Increasing the leverage on a torque wrench can seriously damage it and will throw it out of accuracy.
  7. Good. Now how did they pull it up onto the truck, did you use the tow hook that screws into the opening in the front bumper, or did they attach to something under the car?
  8. Welcome to RennTech Exactly how did you get the car towed? On the ground or on a flatbed?
  9. The LN IMS Solution unique design makes it the least susceptible to failure because it uses freshly filtered oil for lubrication, and as a point of fact, no IMS Solution had ever been reported as having failed. That said, all other retrofits are "open" style bearings, meaning they use unfiltered splash oil for lubrication, which would allow the metal grit you have found to get into the bearings, shortening their lives. At the same time, with that grit circulating in the engine, it is only a matter of time before it claims one of the lifters, cams, or even the rod or crank bearings. These engines are known to generate small amounts of aluminum debris in their oil, which (as long as the amounts remain small) is not an item of concern. Ferrous debris on the other hand is much more abrasive and destructive, as well as being a sign of a major component starting to fail. Once ferrous grit starts to appear, it only gets worse. As for replacements engines, you need to shop you local market to see what is available, you may be able to find a good engine in the $4-5K range; a rebuild on the other hand is going to be expensive, perhaps it the $10-15K range depending upon what needs to be updated or replaced. Engine removal and installation costs would be on top of that.
  10. Welcome to RennTech No, the turbo would use a 722-277-009-5 filter.
  11. The IMS Solution is by far the only permanent fix for this issue, and is also the only retrofit that can actually be moved from one engine to another. It is what I use in my personal vehicles.
  12. People tend to forget that the IMS retrofit process is a preventative measure, not one to try and repair an engine that is already on its way out...…..
  13. I would have to agree that you appear to have the early signs of an IMS issue, but I cannot agree that your best path forward is to replace the bearing. If any of the metal flakes you see in the filter are ferrous, your engine would fail prequalification for an IMS retrofit if it were in my shop. LN and Jake Raby have for years cautioned against retrofitting engines with ferrous debris already circulating in them as the debris has a high probability of getting into the open retrofit bearing and tearing it up. Check the metal flakes with a magnet, if any are picked up, you would be better off looking for another engine. Good luck.
  14. There are a series of heavy fuses in a separate panel that is on the inside of the fire wall, nearly directly behind the battery but accessible from inside the car.
  15. Welcome to RennTech Reversing polarity typically fries electrical components like the voltage regulator and sometimes the solenoid on the starter. You sound like you have at least the solenoid problem. Good luck.
  16. That is the filter we use; it has plastic bonded end caps in place of the factory paper, and also has finer filter media.
  17. Welcome to RennTech Recheck the bypass valve in the filter canister to be sure is is seated, and replace the filter cartridge which may have been torn when first installed, creating a second by pass. Good luck.
  18. If memory serves , a new sending unit still requires calibration.
  19. The factory recalibration.proceedure is complicated and requires a Porsche scan tool and a precise amount of fuel, but should fix your issue.
  20. Sometimes you don't have any choice, sooner or later, they all have to be loosened for service.
  21. You may be able to do it with an appropriate threaded insert as I would now not trust the original threads to hold the nearly 2,000 PSIG pressures these things see by just cleaning up what is left. And when you install the new ones, please use an anti seize compound (we use high temperature nickel base for this application) on the bleeder threads. The original bleeder thread are 10mm x 1.0mm pitch. Good luck!
  22. The answer is simple: Porsche uses a unique programing logic that has always been a pain for others to emulate, and quite simply the number of vehicles produced is still rather low.
  23. The answer to your question is yes. What you describe as "registering" the battery is actually setting the charging system output to match the type of battery (AGM battery for instance use a slightly higher charging rate than flooded cells). This requires the use of a PIWIS system.
  24. You do not need to use a PST II to properly bleed the brakes, that only becomes necessary if you get air into the control network.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.