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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. What year is the car? The trans cooler bracket should be removable on the 996:
  2. Bolts 7, 8 , and. 9 hold the case half’s together and should be accessible. At this juncture, I’m afraid I need to ask a question: As Porsche never published this information (as these engines were never supposed to be rebuilt in the field) , exactly what “manual” are you working from?
  3. Is it possible your car has a replacement engine?
  4. These roll pins appeared in several engines, including the 964, 993, and 996 variants, so they should know about them and if they were used in yours.
  5. It is item number #35 in this diagram (inserts into the deck of the engine case) https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/pet/porsche/996/21/101050/ Loren may be correct in that not all 3.6L may have used it, which is why the VIN is critical.
  6. Welcome to RennTech Your problem is even bigger: The OEM phones were analog, all North American cellular systems went exclusively digital years ago. The system is a brick, and another example of why not to buy phone or navigation systems from the factory.
  7. Welcome to RennTech No it is not normal, and sounds like either a CV joint or hub bearing is on its way out.
  8. The Pro version does several things that the enthusiast versions do not, such as activation of the cruise control system post delivery. As for coding, two points to remember: First, Durametric is always in a "catch up" mode; Porsche offers no assistance so they have to reverse engineer all of the DME computer codes, so they are nearly constantly adding features as they find out how to access and manipulate them. In recent model years, Porsche has switched DME versions and even suppliers (Bosch to Siemens) on some models, which creates even more things to have to ferret out for Durametric. Secondly, Durametric is a "standalone" system that needs to be manually updated once the code is developed and tested, Porsche meanwhile uses a networked system for the PIWIS; they change the code at the factory and the next time you turn on your PIWIS, it is updated to current automatically.. For probably 90% of DIY end users, the enthusiast version is sufficient, plus is you ever need to go to the Pro version to get one of its unique features, you can update your system to the Pro version for a fee.
  9. The Durametric system is excellent, but cannot do everything that the PIWIS system does. But as for the PIWIS, you cannot purchase a legitimate system, only lease them directly from Porsche. And the first year's lease is $20,000. Any PIWIS units being sold are illegal clones, and could be the older systems which may not fully support later car's such as yours. Also be aware Porsche can actually reach out and kill some clone systems remotely as well. After the earlier debacle with illegitimate PST II systems, the did their homework with the PIWIS, which also now includes their entire library of factory service manuals online as well (Porsche stopped all publications of service manuals around 2005). While the PIWIS is a terrific tool, it is very difficult to justify financially, even for a shop.
  10. I am not a fan of that scan tool as it is know to produce incorrect or even non existent codes at times. I'd suggest getting the vehicle rescanned with a better tool.
  11. Yes, all depends upon what the DTC is for. Get the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS, Durametric) and report what is found.
  12. This is a rather common issue as the sensors do not read continuously, but reset themselves periodically, which is enough data for the vehicle but typically not for the driver, who often comments on them being inaccurate.. These sensors are typically mounted at the front of the vehicle, often in the front grill opening. They are a simple plug and play device that retails for around $50..
  13. Unfortunately, this is one of the many torque specs Porsche never published simply because they did not want anyone working on it. We have never had a problem using the older spec.
  14. You will lose less than a quart swapping over to a spin on.
  15. Welcome to RennTech We use the same specs as the earlier bearings: The center bearing support nut can be installed and torqued to the factory spec for the smaller bearing (currently 7.5 ft/lb). Use flange sealant (Loctite 574 or Curil T) on bottom of head of the bolt and use wicking (green) Loctite on the exposed threads of the center bearing support/stud and nut.
  16. We did them all the time on several makes of vehicles, it is not a major issue. Not fixing it properly is to risk a catastrophe.
  17. You need to drill out the damaged threads, and then install proper sized timeserts or Helicoil inserts; using any other method is just plain dangerous.
  18. They used seals made of sn older material that are not always compatible with modern fluids.
  19. TSB's are the intellectual property of Porsche NA and cannot be reproduced or posted online as that would be a violation of their property rights.
  20. Welcome to RennTech The Bentley only shows a diagram of the component's and does not go into how to remove or reseal it. For that you need the factory service manual(s). Biggest issue is getting access to it, you need to drop the trans a bit to get at it.
  21. You have all the signs of a bad crank position sensor; not expensive and relatively easy (one bolt) swap out.
  22. He is referring to the headlight activation test, which can be done with the PIWIS or Durametric Pro software, which will put the headlights thru their movement paces. But if your light is off its gimbal, it would not move during this test, which would just confirm that the light is jammed. I have read about people fixing this problem, but have not done it myself, so I would suggest searching or perhaps another poster can chime in. This may help as well: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/60449-litronic-headlight-repair.html
  23. First of all, you should have bought the light from board sponsor Sunset Porsche instead of Suncoast. Most likely, the internal assembly has become dislodged from its pivot points during shipping. While some have been able to get it back into position, as you just bought it, I would return it.
  24. I will tell you what we have told several customers and posters on this forum: Yes, it can be done, but the view is not worth the climb. Unless you already have in your possession every part you will need, have a well equipped shop at your disposal, and unlimited time available; forget it and go find a car equipped as you would like it. To make one of these conversions requires significantly disassembling the car (pulling out the interior, replumbing the cooling system, rewiring the car, possibly dropping the engine out, etc.). The cost of having a shop do it would easily exceed the value of the car, doing it yourself is one Hell of a lot of work. You need to seriously rethink this idea...…..
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