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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Smoke test it, that will save you hours of chasing your tail needlessly........
  2. Are the metal shavings in the paper towel ferrous (can be picked up by a magnet)? It is not unusual to find some sealant materials in the oil pick up, but you have a lot which can cause oiling problems, and I would be concerned about the fine black debris in the oil sump cover and on the oil plug. Fortunately, the oil filter does not look that bad, but I would think that further investigation at a minimum is required.
  3. Welcome to RennTech Try posting your request in the correct forum thread, and you will get an answer: "Lost Radio Code - post your request here"
  4. The service manual says: "Side-airbag sensor (sensor for airbag) Fault codes 85, 87" "1. There is an open circuit in the wire to the sensor. 2. There is a short to ground / voltage between pin 3 (sensor for airbag) and control module pin 20 or pin 21 3. The sensor or control module is faulty. Check wire to the sensor for open circuit / leakage resistance. If no fault is detected in the wire, replace sensor"
  5. Never said it was fun. When you are done, replace the bolts with appropriate sized stainless steel Allen head screws, use SS lock washers and brass nuts to reattach the header; the brass nuts are sacrificial and can be thrown away after use, but the SS screws will stay like new forever.😉
  6. You still have the misfire, and it is impacting the O2 sensor on the same bank.
  7. If you ran it without the MAF connected, the engine should idle fine.
  8. It is extremely hard to read your screen shots due to the reflections, but from what I can see, the O2 sensors look like they are performing correctly. As for the misfires, you are going to need much more than the diagnostic software to trace it. The coil packs on these engines have multiple leads running to them, which would require a wiring diagram for you decipher which is which. One wire carries a 12V signal on it at all times the engine is running, another of the wires runs all the way to the DME where the DME creates a momentary ground at the moment the coil should fire; you would need a digital multimeter to check these harness wires for the correct voltage on the power lead, and a ground signal on the wiring going to the DME only when the DME creates it; if shows a ground at any other time, there is a short to ground between the coil and the DME causing it to constantly fire; if there is no short to ground, the DME MUST create a momentary ground at the correct crank rotation point for the coil to fire the plug. If that is not happening, either the wire is cut before it reaches the DME, or the DME is acting up. If all this is out of your depth, I would suggest taking the car to a qualified Porsche shop for them to have a look at it.
  9. Then you need to pull the plug on that cylinder and check it out and then start running electrical diagnostics on the cylinder in question; is the coil seeing full voltage, are there any shorts or voltage drops in the coil harness wires, is the coil seeing a firing signal, etc.
  10. Did you clear all the codes after changing the coil? If not, do so now, and then wait to see what returns, There are only a few reasons why a cylinder misfires: Coil is bad, plug is bad, coil is not getting power or firing signal from the DME.
  11. Should be in the right side of the rear hatch area.
  12. Welcome to RennTech I am not aware of another or better tool for this than the Stomski unit, particularly if trying to do the repair with the engine still in the car. It is the tool we have used when required. Good luck!
  13. You need access to the proper diagnostic tool; I would not attempt to drive the car in its current form.
  14. If memory serves, there is an extraction tool for exactly this purpose, but I do not have a link for it. Maybe listed as a VW tool.
  15. People often forget that legitimate PIWIS systems can test and activate individual components that no other scan tool can even see on these cars.
  16. At this juncture, I would have the car scanned with a legitimate PIWIS system, which can see and test multiple components in the AC system, including control modules.
  17. You probably have a fault in the climate control module in the dash that is preventing the correct voltage supply to the compressor clutch.
  18. To my knowledge, there is no separate "ac freeze switch" in the Boxster's; many of the earlier analog cars (944. 924, 928) had a temp sensor in the heater box area to prevent the system from icing over in high humidity environments, but the later cars like the Boxster used the digital climate control system in the dash to accomplish the same end without a separate sensor for the purpose.
  19. You will need a wiring diagram for the car to identify which terminals are which.
  20. If the low-pressure switch causes the fuse to blow, that is your questionable circuit. The low-pressure switch is a safety that prevents the clutch from engaging when the gas pressure in the system is too low, so it normally allows current to flow to the clutch. It could be the switch, or the circuit running from the switch to the clutch is shorted.
  21. We own several different models, but our favorite is the 7002, which you can get off Amazon. We also own the MXS 5.0, and the MUS 4.3.
  22. Porsche designed these cars so that you can plug a maintainer into the cigarette lighter socket, run the cord out below the mirror on the driver's door where they put a notch to accommodate it, allowing you to use the maintainer with the car locked and weather tight. And you do not want a trickle charger, they destroy batteries, maintainers preserve them. We have used Ctek maintainers for years and wouldn't even consider another brand; Ctek is the only maintainer manufacturer that includes a de-sulfation step in every charge profile, and was also once a battery manufacturer (Optima brand) until they sold the battery business to Johnson controls, who promptly screwed up the Optima line. We have never had an issue with any Ctek unit, they simply work. They also make several models that accommodate AGM specific charge profiles (which are different from flooded cell batteries), and they also make lithium specific units as well.
  23. It is exceedingly hard to nearly impossible to diagnose anything from video soundtracks. And no, the pulleys should remain silent when the belt is removed. The sound could be related to the timing chains, but the car needs to be evaluated by a competent Porsche tech or independent before you move forward.
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