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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Try removing the MAF and cleaning it with a MAF cleaner spray.
  2. Fuel in the oil at appreciable levels is usually the result of either leaking injectors or a totally failed sump evacuation system (these engines are designed to run at around 5 inches of water vacuum signal in the sump to aid low tension ring sealing). Without the proper vacuum level in the sump, water and fuel will accumulate over time. I would scan the engine for fuel trims to look for leaking injectors, and test the sump vacuum level with a digital manometer.
  3. The stability management system and DME should not be capable of doing that; only invoking "limp mode". You will not be able to "pick up" a PIWIS, they are only available for lease at $20,000 for the first year. That said, you need to get the car scanned before moving forward; anything else would just be guesses.
  4. P0503 is the code for a bad wheel speed sensor, the rest sounds like you have transmission problems. I would get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool like the PIWIS.
  5. Welcome to RennTech Check Loren's posts earlier in the thread, they contain everything you need.
  6. Two possibles: Oil cooler or cracked cylinder head. Cooler can be removed and pressure tested easily, if it is sound, you have a cracked head.
  7. Seriously doubt a head gasket as they are multi layer steel and acutally stronger than the heads or engine case.
  8. You may have an air pocket in the system from changing the water pump and thermostat.
  9. Welcome to RennTech Common problem, usually the sending unit going goofy. Easy DIY.
  10. More common than you might imagine, Porsche used a strange design cam follower that is very easily susceptible to varnish build up and particulate debris.
  11. Yes, cam followers can bleed down, and can be replaced. Not a small project, however.
  12. Not really, there only so much a digital multimeter can tell you about systems with control modules in them; they cannot see the module programming, state of activity, or read the signals they send out to see if they are correct. You are limited to voltage, continuity, and amperage; which may not answer the question. This is the problem when you have digital "thinking" modules in a electrical control circuit; you need to know what the module is, or isn't thinking, which requires a more sophisticated tool.
  13. As a general rule, no, module replacements typically require either programming or activation steps requiring a PIWIS.
  14. Yes, or it could be a commination's fault, an "implausible" signal in the system from sensor, a module that has lost its programing, etc. The question is which one and what fault, and where is it, which only a scan would answer. You could spend a lot of time chasing your tail not knowing where to start.
  15. It could pinpoint where the fault is in the system, dramatically reducing diagnostic time.
  16. Please do not "bump" posts, it is against the forum rules you agreed to when joining.
  17. You can find the complete coverage by model and year here: Durametric
  18. Most quality shops did, just as the followed their “preinstallation inspection “ directives, both of which benefited the car’s owner at no cost to the shops. We regularly had customers ask us about both when shopping for someone to do the retrofit, signs of an informed consumer. DIY’s on the other hand were another story.......
  19. Older AOS units had a single o-ring seal, later units have multiple seals.
  20. Good night. Leave you with a thought: Try a lighted mechanics mirror before jumping for a borescope: It has two LED's to illuminate and is a great time saver. I have both this and a borescope in the shop and reach for this way more than the borescope.
  21. While you have the AOS out, physically compare it to the unit you removed to see if there are any obvious differences.
  22. Something is not right here. I would pull the unit and either use a borescope of a small mirror to see if something is still in the block. Did you say that you had the bolt in and the unit was flush with the engine case when the tube was not all the way in? If that is correct, there is something wrong with that AOS unit. Did you compare it to the unit you pulled out?
  23. OK, something interesting: Here is the part ending in 54: And here is the one ending 55: Notice the difference in the length of the tube that inserts into the block?
  24. That was what I was just looking at.
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