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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. OK, first of all, either twisting wires together and wrapping them with tape, or using wire nuts is totally unacceptable for automotive applications. Both are pathways to shorts and even fires. Wires should be reconnected with crimp connectors at a minimum, with soldering them and then using heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints the actual preferred method. Most likely, in the process of doing this swap, you disturbed something, but exactly what is hard to say, particularly as the previous owner used the twisted wire and tape wrap method of connecting things. It is entirely possible that you may have pulled another such "MacGyver" like repair loose that is not related to the radio swap. Probably the best approach at this juncture is to get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to see what the various communication modules are doing. Good luck with this one.
  2. I personally don't see how you are going to complete this without getting under at least the rear of the car.
  3. The obviously is dependent upon the condition of the car and how it is equipped, but $3-5 K for a decent roller is not uncommon.
  4. Before doing anything, you need to confirm what is actually wrong (e.g.: Bore scoping/compression testing/leak down testing cylinders 2 and 5, the ones the commonly D chunk, pressure testing the cooling system to verify you have a leak, dropping the oil and looking for presence of coolant,. etc.). If you have then confirmed the 2.5 is toast, you can sell the car as a "roller" for someone to undertake as a project (late model Porsche's with dead engines still have substantial value). Scrapping the car without confirming the engine is gone would be both foolish and a financial loser as a replacement engine can be sourced from a wreck for a few thousand dollars.
  5. Considering it is a 2.5, you may have "D-chunked" the engine cases.
  6. A Porsche specific scan tool should see something during crank over. Removing the cam plugs will give you an approximation of the cam positions, but there are no marks, only the slots the cam bollocking tool fits into, which should be exactly vertical when the engine is at TDC:
  7. I would be checking the output readings (cam angles and deviation values) from the sensor to see what it is telling the DME.
  8. Welcome to RennTech Porsche does not sell a lot of the Tip parts, preferring to sell you a remaned transmission. Thankfully, most of the bits used in the Porsche variant are also found in VW and Audis.
  9. Sure, but what about the wire that carries the signal from the sensor to the DME, which is reading a strange value?
  10. Not unusual, it is located near the power steering pump reservoir, and the dust can collect vapor from the pump, which can get quite hot when running.
  11. That’s how I thought the system worked, without a separate switch or control system. If the air bags deployed, that needs to be corrected before the DME will allow the pump to run. P1397 code is for an “implausible signal” from the sensor, which may be a wiring issue.
  12. As I have never heard of such a thing, what exactly are you trying to do?
  13. In that environment, 215 F would not be unusual with the factory thermostat.
  14. If memory serves, the level sensor is a simple on/off switch, you should be able to test it using a multi meter and moving the sensor to see if goes on and off.
  15. Not a problem, that is why we are here 👍
  16. Water pump bolts are a perfect application for an inch pound torque wrench. 😉
  17. Much like the the dual row IMS bearing don't fail as often as the single rows, but still do fail; removing the tensioners, even one at a time, can induce quite a bit of slack in the long chains running from the cams to the IMS shaft. If they are already stretched from normal wear, it can be just enough to create a situation you really don't want to be in, namely an otherwise unnecessary cam reallocation exercise, for which most people do not have ready access to the required fixtures. Better safe than sorry.
  18. Bad idea. ALL M96/97 engine variants should be at TDC with the cams locked before pulling any of the tensioners. Some get away not doing it, but that is more a matter of luck the correct procedures. You are also replying to a two year old posting.😉
  19. The 997 model came out the year Porsche ceased publishing service information for the entire line, moving to an online subscription service called TSI, and it was also available to you if you leased the PIWIS system for $20K for the first year.
  20. Bad gas doesn't consistently cause issues in only one cylinder.
  21. It is the AC condensate line back up, which should exit under the car. There are many DIY fixes for this online.
  22. You are in an ugly position. Are you sure the kit you have is for a single row application? If the bearing will not seat, and has to be subsequently extracted, normal procedure is to can the bearing and use a new one as the extraction process tends to damage the internal bearing cages, which would lead to a premature failure.. This is particularly bad for ball bearings, but I do not know about how bad it is for roller bearings as I am not particularly fond of the technical premise behind them, but the damage should be similar. You might want to contact the company behind the kit and see what they have to say about reuse.
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