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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Most likely triple square (AKA XZN) bolts. I used Snap-on, but a lot of other tool companies make them as well. Amazon also sells them.
  2. Over the years, we have replaced more transmission fluid than I care to remember, all for the same reason: they all were the wrong fluid and caused problems (poor shifting, noise, etc.) Porsche has always used unique full synthetic transmission lubricants which were made to their specifications, and for which there were no aftermarket match because the total number of Porsche cars is too small a market, which is why they tend to be pricey and hard to find outside the dealer network. While some people have had limited success with other products, we only used the Porsche products, and we never had any problems with them.
  3. P1531 is the DTC for the actuator triggering, but no active position. Could be either a wiring issue (open circuit) or a bad actuator. Diagnostics are to check the power supply (B+) and triggering wire for continuity; if both are OK, replace the actuator. As noted above, it probably is the the actuator.
  4. Welcome to RennTech You did not state the year and model, so I am going off what you entered in your account. Porsche code 174 can be one of two DTC codes: P1530 or 1531, which are for different problems. What is your Durametric seeing as the DTC code?
  5. Welcome to RennTech If your DME (what you refer to as an ECU) actually got wet, most of the car would have been under water, so I would not be surprised things aren't working. I assume you are referring to the box under the seat, which is the alarm/immobilizer unit. If that is the case, remove the unit and rinse it out with isopropyl alcohol , which you can get at any grocery or pharmacy. Remove the small fuse on the unit and make sure it did not blow when it got wet. Use a hair dryer to dry out the unit, reassemble and you should be good to go.
  6. And be happy yours in an early car with a cheap switch on the B pillar, the later cars had one that is built in to a $550 driver's side roof transmission that would have to be replaced. Another Porsche "improvement". 😉
  7. P1531 is the code for "no active position" on the VarioCam actuator on bank 1, with three possible faults: Open circuit (wiring issue) Open circuit on power supply wire Defective actuator Diagnostics are to test the B+ actuator power supply wire for power; then check entire actuator harness for continuity. If both are OK, replace the actuator. If you had access to a Porsche specific scan tool such as the Durametric system, you would be able to test actuate the unit with the car running and see if the cam positions change, but I don't think the unit you have is capable of doing that.
  8. Welcome to RennTech You can try to adjust the switch, but most end up replacing it.
  9. I have very rarely seen side air bag wires chafe inside the door unless the window mechanism caught them and tore them up. Usually, the problem is where the wire harness exits the door and enters the main body. In any case, you need to be electrically testing the entire harness, not just looking for obvious damage. You need to disconnect the battery and leave the car alone for at least thirty min.before doing any work. I also prefer to work with a static discharge wrist strap on one arm any time I am working near or on the air bags.
  10. You need to d some electrical diagnostics using tools like a digital multimeter or a Power Probe to check the appropriate circuits for electrical faults. A Porsche specific scan tool is required to check the POSIP system. Extreme care is called for to prevent inadvertently tripping the system and inflating the air bag. If you do not have access to the tools, or a complete understanding of how the air bag and igniter circuits function, take it to a professional as air bag systems are capable of severely injuring or even killing you.
  11. Which means it is a Tiptronic, not a PDK transmission, which also means my software suggestion is moot.
  12. I would still have the car checked to see if the PDK has the latest software. Most of these issues seem to be related to that.
  13. Welcome to RennTech While I seriously doubt you actually have a 1985 Boxster with a PDK, similar complaints have been addressed by reprogramming the PDK, which would require the factory PIWIS system to accomplish.
  14. What were you doing the the PST II before this happened?
  15. It should be throwing a code, what is it?
  16. Five chain motors have a problem with the small pads between the cams, which is a well known problem: If you had a solenoid issue, the car would code for it, besides which if you go in to do the pads, you could change out the solenoid then if you wanted.
  17. Welcome to RennTech You are not very far out of spec, so I need to ask if you drove the car for at least 20 min. to completely warm everything up before taking the readings? It is very easy to get inaccurate and misleading readings by not properly warming up the engine before doing so. You are going to need the cam retaining tools to hold the cams while removing the cam cover. I would also suggest you search out the several DIY write ups on this topic, and familiarize yourself thoroughly before starting. It can be done with the engine in, but is often quicker with it out. Good luck.
  18. I've never seen a tool that would fit through the center bolt opening and grab the bearing by the outer race to prevent loading the bearings and cage assemblies; I don't think such a thing exists. Every tool grabs the inner race, which is the problem.
  19. The moment you employ a slide hammer on that bolt, the retrofit bearing is trash. One of the major issues early on with retrofits were with people trying to extract (read pull on the center bolt) that had cocked or not installed correctly. Because the center bolt pulls ONLY on the center race, doing so twits the ball bearing cages, damaging them and the races, and often even damaging the ball bearings themselves. The result was typically premature failure of the bearing assembly after it was reinstalled. If you visit LN Engineering's website (LN in conjunction with Jake Raby of Flatsix Innovations developed the concept of IMS bearing retrofits and invented to tooling to do it, and have the largest base of successful installations, some 25,000+), they specifically state that any bearing subjected to pulling on the center bolt should be discarded and replaced rather than reused due to the high probability of subsequent premature failures.
  20. Unfortunately, I know nothing about that brand retrofit, as they are not available in North America. Perhaps someone in Europe can chime in.......
  21. Whose retrofit kit are you using?
  22. Unless you have a leak, leave them alone. Job to replace them is a bear.
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