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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. It definitely sound like it is oil pressure related, which ain't good. Not to start an endless "best oil" argument, but what oil do you run in the engine? As bore scoring is well known on these engines, probably your next step is to have it bore scoped.
  2. You can lengthen damaged wires, providing that you use matching gauge wire sections, soldering the joints and then heat shrink tubing over the joints for water tightness and insulation. Soldered joints are critical on many of the wires in these cars, and in particular those that carry low voltage signals like the MAF.
  3. Probably just unburnt fuel; take it out for a run and see if it clears up.
  4. The correct method to test the battery primary leads is by voltage drop, it should be no more than 0.5V.
  5. You don't, you need a PIWIS system to code the module to the car. A lot of the control modules in these cars need to be told exactly what they are dealing with before they are happy again; they are not simple "plug and play" devices due to the number of possible configurations the car could be carrying. They are definitely "some assembly required" systems.........
  6. Yeah, that one ain't happy. While I hate to use weather worn phases, it would not be a bad idea to swap them out "while you are in there". Injectors wear and foul more than people would believe. There is also a market for used injectors that people buy to have refurbished and installed.
  7. They are small but not tiny: Most of the time, with care, they can be reused as they are actually just crimped on. Reattaching the wire by soldering is a good idea, just be careful about making the connector too big to fit in its opening.
  8. The small connectors inside the pug have a small "tang" that sticks up and locks them in place, these tools allow you to slide in the tool, depress the tang, and remove the terminal and its wire without damage. Still more evidence that "there is a tool for absolutely everything............." 😀
  9. You need what is called a "pin removal tool" set from someone like SIR Tools. These will allow you to remove the terminal without damaging it, reset the wire and reinstall it. Other tool companies like OTC make them as well.
  10. It may help if your disconnect the harness from all the injectors to get more room to work. DO NOT TAPE IT BACK TOGETHER! If the wire is damaged, you need to open up the damaged area, even cutting the wire although it is still intact, and sliding on a heat shrink tube before soldering the wire back together. Then you can slide the heat shrink tube over the joint, shrink it, and you have a fully insulated, water proof repair that will out live the car. Fix it right, fix it once................
  11. Welcome to RennTech B6 is for the power top, turn signals, and power windows.
  12. That would be my next stop after checking the cables. High cable resistance due to internal corrosion is common on these cars, which is why I would start there.........
  13. Welcome to RennTech Your problems sound electrical; battery or battery cable related. Check your primary battery cables for voltage drop, you should not see more than 0.5VDC drop across any primary cable. If yours are higher, you need to replace them.
  14. 14x1.5MM, passenger's side cam cover area.
  15. If the air fuel ratio was corrected, yes, these would clear themselves.
  16. He just might surprise you next time around..................
  17. Almost; in your state, the use of aftermarket "universal" cats will fail your inspection program, they have to be factory. The sensors will work fine, but the use of aftermarket emissions component's is a no-no.
  18. Depends upon which faults, but yes, the DME can clear codes all by itself after a repair.
  19. Pedro overcharges for a kit you can make up yourself for a lot less. You do not need a permanent oil pressure installation, most decent shops have a test gauge for just this purpose;
  20. Not really, as long as the cat is doing its job, it should make no difference.
  21. What is your oil pressures doing during the cold start, hot idle, etc.? There was a notice about excessively low oil pressure at low RPM's, along with a simple fix kit (new oil pump spring and piston).
  22. The quickest, and probably easiest as well, method to disable the system entirely is to disconnect and plug the vacuum lines running to the vacuum chambers on each side of the PSE under the car. Vacuum is used to close the valves, making the system quiet, unplugged, it will be forever in the loud mode. Enjoy 🙂
  23. Actually, it was the Swiss market that led to this. Factory installed PSE will automatically go to the quiet mode between certain KPH vehicle speeds to spare the neighbors ears. Normal behavior unless you defeat the control system.
  24. Porsche sells an very well made cover for the car.
  25. Not at all strange or unusual. “Fecal matter occurs” and all that.
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