JFP in PA

On the bottom right side, you can see the zero C line (your unit is calibrated in C, you can also get them in F, which is more convenient): When a drop of pure water is placed on the prism, the blue line would be at the 32 F degree line, meaning the test fluid will freeze at that temp. A 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze would put the blue line around -50 to -60F. Note you have two antifreeze scales, one for ethylene glycol, the other for propylene glycol based coolants, so you need to know which type you are using to get the correct scale value. This is the PDF manual for the Robinair 75240 model I own, which tells you how to calibrate and use the unit: https://www.robinair.com/sites/default/files/75240.pdf I've had mine for literally decades, and it does the job every time.

Get a coolant refractometer, uses one drop of fluid and is deadly accurate. Amazon sells them for around $20 or so, and you can get pH test strips for a few bucks for a jar holding 20-30 that also only need one drop. You don't always need zillion dollar tools to do the job correctly. 😉

We would also visually inspect several things, like the brakes for thin pads, worn rotors, etc.; freeze point pH and clarity of the coolant; moisture level in the brake fluid, wiper blade condition and washer fluid level, oil level and condition, any fluid leakage (oil, coolant, power steering, brakes), abnormal tire tread wear and tread depth, exterior light functions (do they all work), and signs of physical damage like dents or rust on the lines under the car or the exhaust system. All this takes just a few moments to do, but can prevent the owners from getting stranded or stopped because a brake light is out.

If you had any pronounced vacuum leaks, your air/fuel ratios would go haywire, and eventually your computer would reach the end of its enrichment capability, both of which would trigger codes.

Your photo happens to be the exact digital manometer I use, bought off of Amazon for about $35-40 at the time. Only one tube needs to be connected the the vacuum source, the other functions as an atmospheric pressure reference that you are measuring the vacuum level against. I also used a Porsche oil fill cap, but did it a bit more elegant than the one in your photo; I purchased brass barbed bulkhead fittings of Amazon and use O-rings on each side to seal it. As every car out there has an oil fill cap, you can make up as many vehicle specific testers as you need. To test, you need to first make sure the vehicle is thoroughly warmed up, testing it just after a 15 to 20 min. drive is optimal. The reason for this is you will get some erratic data if the engine is not warm in in normal running condition. The test sequence is simple and quick: Connect the manometer to the engine and turn the manometer on; set the units scale to inches of water, zero it if it has that capability, then start the car and let it run for about 1 min. to let the manometer stabilize, take your reading. Yes, Jake did develop a "better mousetrap" AOS, but it never saw the light of day, and not for reasons of cost, or because it did not work. If memory serves, Jake discovered that third part emission's hardware manufacturers are required to submit their devices for independent testing, at their own cost. The testing takes a lot of time, and is expensive as Hell, and once you passed you had to get very expensive liability protection for it as you could be held responsible for damaging the environment, and fined millions of $ if it failed. Net result was that it did not make any sense from an economic stand point as you would need to sell them for a lot of money in hope of recovering your sunk costs before you died of old age. Sometimes, the laws designed to protect the environment totally suffocates innovation …. 😬

Glad you got it sorted 👍

Welcome to RennTech Couple of possibles: (1) A wiring issue causing the heaters to malfunction. (2) The reflash itself. A lot of people have experienced all sorts of weird DME issues after getting aftermarket reflashes done as these systems are quite often set up to try to eek out small power gains by trying to trick the basic DME engine control functions, everything from strange codes to blocking connection to the OBD II port. Returning the vehicle to the factory DME flash put an end to the problems.

As each line on the oil level gauge is a small fraction of a liter (somewhere around 0.2 L), by adding a two quart (or liter) sump extension, and then lowering the level two bars from the full line, you have still increased your total oil capacity by around 1.6 L; and as any increase in oil capacity is generally a good thing, you are still ahead of the game. 😉

Not even remotely correct in this world. But I would agree that Porsche's A40 spec is irrelevant as it is a marketing tool, not a lubricant specification. If you want real specs, consider products that meet or exceed ACEA A3/B3/B4, which are real, technically based and widely accepted performance standards.

A "breather" is simply and atmospheric vent, not unlike an open window. The vacuum signal "throttling" done by the AOS is much like the thermostat in your home: It keeps the environment in the sump at a controlled level. If there were no vacuum level, the low tension rings would not seal, pressure would build up, and engine oil seals would blow out. Too high a vacuum signal and the intake starts inhaling oil as Jake showed in his video and the engine kills itself. The AOS vacuum throttling function keeps the sump "just right". 😉 That part in the diagram marked "breather" is actually how the sump vents any pressure that might build up after the engine is shut down and there is no vacuum. The pressure would wend its way around the system and back into the intake manifold, and back out into the world. It all has to go somewhere; the engine cannot function as a sealed vessel.

On the track, it is not uncommon to see one of these engines blow some oil smoke. Sometimes this may only happen in certain corners, and not in others. Problem stems from too much oil being retained in the upper engine area (read cam covers), where it cannot drain down fast enough through the M96's oil scavenging system, and the AOS becomes overwhelmed. This is one of the reasons Porsche developed the X51 package, which uses a "northwest passage" extra scavenging system to get the oil back down where it belongs. One trick a lot of track rats learn is to drop the oil level in the sump a couple of bars to help control the oil level in the heads. On the street, we always filled customer's sumps to at least two bars below the max line for this exact reason. We also tested everyone of the cars that passed through the shop for sump vacuum levels, as the AOS deteriorates and then fails a lot more often than people expect. It should be considered a maintence consumable item that needs to be replaced before it begins to fail. One comment on your diagram: The actual intake vacuum signal at idle can be as high as 26-28 inches of mercury, and one inch of Hg is 13.6 inches of water. The only time the intake would drop to anywhere near the levels in your diagram would be a wide open throttle. So the AOS is not only separating oil and returning it to the sump, it is throttling the intake vacuum down to around 5 inches of water in the sump to help the low tension rings seal.

Welcome to RennTech Normally, oil films on the inside of the intake system is a sign the AOS is on its way out.

A lot of people and shops simply update the cars to the later setup, which is totally bolt in, or update to aftermarket bars and mounts that are adjustable for better handling.

That is not going to be easy, most people use a torch to heat the aluminum section where the tapered pin inserts, then wack it out with a hammer when the aluminum is hot. Unfortunately, that often snaps off the tapered pin or destroys the bar link itself, which is the reason it is common to see 74-77 911's with no rear sway bars.

That ball and socket end link is a press in item: Porsche stopped using this design in 1977 because it is such a pain to seal with and move to a more "wrench friendly" mounting system in 1978, which is a simple bolt in swap for your car.

You CAN Bus system is how various systems communicate with each other. Sometimes the individual modules lose contact and need to be reset to work properly, which again requires a Porsche specific diagnostic tool. While there are are some aftermarket diagnostic tools that can "see" a fault, like yours they typically cannot communicate and reset the system. This is the unfortunate state of automotive diagnostics, the OEM's are required by law to allow some systems to be accessed by third party diagnostics tools, but many component's are "walled off" and require very specific tools to work with them, in a vain attempt to secure work for their dealer network. Law also requires the OEM to make their factory diagnostic systems available to the aftermarket; in Porsche's case, their PIWIS system is only available for lease, with the first year costing around $20,000.

That is because you need to have access to a Porsche specific scan tool like the PIWIS Porsche factory tool; a "global" European scan tool won't be able to access this system, and won't see anything wrong. Some independents have this tool, all dealers have them.

As that engine is a VW variant, a VW shop with the VagCom should also be able to clear it.

I do not believe that the Durametric software supports this function, but you can check with them directly on that. You may need to have a dealer do a code clear with the PIWIS.

Reductant Consumption is the Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) that is used to assist in converting leftover exhaust particles to harmless gases. Are you sure your DEF tank isn't empty?

Then using the basic rule to always go back to the last thing you worked on, the intake plenum.

I would check to make sure you reconnected the coil packs, both completely plugging them in, and not having crossed any.

The correct filter dimensions are 113 MM height, 65 MM outside diameter, 24 MM inside diameter. If the filter they sent you does not match these, do not use it.

It sounds like something is not connected in the door you worked on, which can disable the remote. I would start with checking what you took apart.

You should be running the car one or two bars below the full mark on the electronic display. I would also seriously consider replacing the AOS unit with a new factory unit, they are known for not liking liquid oil in the diaphragm area of the AOS system. I also am not aware of any atmospheric "vent" in the AOS, so check to make sure something is not connected properly.