JFP in PA

14Nm or 10.5 ft lbs.

Sure.

Probably the boot leaking, but you need to get the car up in the air and have a look. Replacing the boots is a DIY job, but it is messy...........

It looks like the clip that holds the cloth flap at the bottom of the convertible top in place.

See my explanation of the code above. I would also suggest you need a better shop, as this code if very specific and has nothing to do with the throttle body...............

Visual inspection of the.primary cables is fine, but it does not tell you what is going INSIDE the cables, where a slight increase in resistance can result in significant voltage drops, which screws up just about everything, including how the DME functions. If your DME was expecting 12.0 volts or better and only gets 11.4, it is already outside the acceptable voltage drop range. If that is the actual case, there may be nothing wrong with the DME, other than it does not see the correct voltage...........

No, it CANNOT be reset. The ONLY way to know which style IMS bearing is in a 2000-2001 M96 Porsche is to take it apart and look, all other supposed methods are simply wishful thinking, so unless the seller could show you records of that being done, he is fabricating data. Those of us that do IMS retrofits for a living would have told you that, and your PPI should have also caught any signs that the car had be pulled apart for such an inspection.

You still need to run a proper voltage drop across the primary battery cables. This should be done before you do anything else as too high a voltage drop will cause all sorts of problems that can easily be misconstrued as something way more expensive, like replacing the DME. Going from the DME ending in 102 to one ending in 101 is going backwards, the 102 unit is the one that superseded the 101. Porsche does not do this unless there was a problem with the older style unit. Even the 102 has been superseded twice, the current model is the DX, which retails here for a touch over $5K. As these DME's do not fail very often, you really need to make sure you need to do this.

No.

Exactly what are you trying to "reset"?

The dash has several grounding points, just follow any solid brown wire and you will find one.

No.

It should on race cars using the MS 3.1 engine module, which I think was in play through 2007.

Your hypothesis about crimping being better is dead wrong. Soldering is always better for a simple, often misunderstood reason; resistance in the circuit. Crimp connectors add a different thickness material (often aluminum) to the electrical circuit, and that can have huge implications to what happens next, especially sensor circuits like the MAF. Equal lengths of twisted copper wire and aluminum tube have different inherent resistance when measured a very low ohm levels. This changes the voltage levels sensor's see under the exact same conditions, the lower the voltage level, the bigger the impact. Add in that crimp connectors add dissimilar metal and the possibility for corrosion to develop, further altering the electrical properties of the circuit, and situation gets even worse. We had a car in the shop with complaints of repeated stalling for no reason while sitting at a traffic light or stop sign. The warmer the engine was, the worse the problem. We went all over the MAF sensor and harness, looking for something obvious, but found nothing that jumped out at us. While reading the car's PID values at idle, we noted that the MAF voltages would suddenly change slightly for no reason, and the engine would stall. Changing to our shop "sample MAF", it did the exact same thing, so it was not the sensor itself. We disconnected the MAF harness and tested it for continuity, and it was fine under all conditions. But when we tried looking at each wire for very small changes in resistance when the harness was moved or subjected to hot air from a heat gun, two circuits saw the resistance jump very slightly. We cut the harness open and found those two circuits had small crimp connector repairs in them, both of which showed slight internal corrosion against the copper wires. We cleaned the wires, soldered them, and heat shrink covered the repairs; problem totally disappeared, and has not reoccurred in more than four years of daily use. Sensor circuits, particularly low or factional voltage signal circuits like the MAF, O2 sensors, temp sensors, etc., act totally different when very slight differences in resistance appear in the circuit. On these, solder and heat shrink are the ONLY viable repair methods.

Bit of an odd item, I got mine with a Durametric Pro system, but they do not sell the cup car cable separately. You might want to Google it around as they come up for sale from time to time.

The two oldest ones in existence belong to Jake Raby and Charles.

Welcome to RennTech Suggest you contact Charles Navarro, owner of LN, he has been running one for several years in his Cayman.

Welcome to RennTech The S speedo face will not read correctly as your base speedo is calibrated to 150 MPH, not 175.

OK, you are running high film strength and ZDDP oils, which is what you should be doing. Your idle speed is a bit low (spec is around 775-790), but as yours is an e-gas throttle body, the idle speed is software controlled and cannot easily be changed. Idle speed can be altered by a variety of factors, so while it is a bit low, I wouldn’t be pursing that at this juncture. Bore scoring could alter your idle speed due to excessive drag at low speeds in the damaged cylinder(s), but it is not necessarily a given that low idle speed indicates bore scoring. I think it is time for you to bore scope the engine; we have been bouncing around possibilities for long enough, it is time to identify solid data on what is going on and start either eliminating possibles or zeroing in on what is going on.

As you had trans work done earlier, it is the obvious place to start as the switch is in a location that is not easy to see if the harness is fully plugged in.

See my post above...........😉 I'll bet the connector has come off the switch as the shifter has nothing to do with the back up lights, if it were so maladjusted that the gear did not contact the switch, it would pop out of gear every time you tried to back up....

It is not on the shifter, it is on the transmission itself: Repairing the 996 backup light switch

That part number ( pcg 201 221 01) is not a correct Porsche part number, and bears no relationship to any of the part numbers that have preceded the one I gave you. I think they are trying to sell you what they have rather than what you need. And you cannot simply block off lines that happen to not be included with this part, the car will at a minimum code on your, at worst not even run.

The correct EVAP canister, #996-201-221-08, is still available. This part has been superseded a couple of times over the years (996-201-221-02, 996-201-221-05, 996-201-221-09), but it still looks the same as your original unit according to the Porsche parts system.

What year and model is the car?