JFP in PA

The magic "pin out box", made by special order by the elf's of the Black Forest, with a $2,000+ price tag. What it does is to allow you to connect a multimeter to circuits that are already completely connected and test for voltage and/or continuity. In reality, you can do the same thing with thin wire back pin probes that slip into the rear of the car's connectors and get the same readings: No where as elegant as the factory pinout box, but they are one Hell of a lot cheaper and get the job done.

You Durametric system is as close as you are going to get to something like the PIWIS without spending $20,000 to lease a factory tool. The Durametric is very capable, I use one my self for most things. But on thing you need to remember: Diagnostic tools only give you a sense of direction, not a set of directions; so any of them, including the almighty PIWIS, are only as good as the intuition of the operator. Diagnostic's are slow and often arduous, often leading down several dead ends before your find the actual problem by a process of elimination.

A "global" OBD II scanner (read on OEM tool) should be able to see a lot of things, but when you get down to the more difficult diagnostics, a Porsche specific tool like the Durametric system, PST II, or PIWIS can see thing that the global tool cannot, and most global tools are incapable of doing system actuations for test purposes.

P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Open Circuit P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Below Limit P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Above Limit Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for continuity. 1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 2. Remove connector X 2/3. 3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and to X 2/3 on pin side, pin 11. Display: 0 - 5 ohms If infinite ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. 4. Remove connector III of instrument cluster. 5. Connect ohmmeter to X 2/3, sleeve side, and to connector III of instrument cluster, pin 2. Display: 0 - 5 ohms If infinite ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for short to ground. 1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 2. Remove connector III of instrument cluster. 3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and ground. Display: infinite ohms If 0 - 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for short to B+. 1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 2. Remove connector III of instrument cluster. 3. Switch on the ignition. 4. Connect voltmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and ground. Display: 0 V If battery voltage is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

And all 3.2's were either Tips or six speeds................. Good catch Mike 😉

I think that Sunset, being both a very reputable Porsche parts dealer, and a board sponsor; while ECS is neither. i looked up the part number you gave me, but Sunset can run your VIN and tell you exactly what part should be in the car.

Board sponsor Sunset Porsche sells that new part for $47.44.

I would test both the battery (load test) and the charging system before replacing anything. If either is weak, replacing it should clear the code. It may be possible that the sensor can be replaced if it is a serviceable item (not all are) but you need to know if it is a ghost code caused by the battery/charging system before doing anything else. If the sensor is not serviceable, the PDK has to come out and be replaced, they cannot always be serviced in the field, even by a dealer.

Welcome to RennTech P1707 is a transmission sensor code, often triggered by a weak battery or charging system.

On the 9X6 and 9X7 Porsches, the engine crankcase vacuum reading is normally in the region of -4.0” to -6.0” H2O (Inches of water). When an oil separator fails, the crankcase vacuum can rise to -10.0” to -15.0” H2O, or even much worse (-40.0” H2O) depending on the extent of AOS failure. On the 9X7.2 and 9X1 Porsches, the engine crankcase vacuum reading is normally in the region of -14.0” to -16.0” H2O (Inches of water). When an oil separator fails, the crankcase vacuum can rise to -20.0” to -25.0” H2O, or even much worse (-30 to -40.0” H2O) depending on the extent of AOS failure.

Considering that even a used DME is going for nearly $2K, and a new unit is nearly $8K and would require recoding the car to make it work, I would definitely get it checked. 😉

Welcome to RennTech Replacing that module will require coding the module with a PIWIS unit. I would suggest getting the system scanned with a Porsche specific diagnostic tool, looking at the alarm system codes to point you to what is faulting before doing anything.

Should be a T10 bulb if memory serves...................

Considering what people do to these key fobs (gone through the family washer, spent a couple of days at the bottom of a lake, ran it over with the car, etc.), I am surprise that they work at all. Eventually everything wears out; when it does, then it is time to go to the dealer and make your wallet a little easier to sit on.................😉

One of the biggest problems is that Porsche stopped publishing vehicle service manuals after 2004, going to an online system that is built into the PIWIS system, which is a lease only diagnostic system with a first year's lease at $20,000. So basic service information became very scarce. To my knowledge, the filter unit itself is not very prone to causing problems. I would make sure all the lines were free flowing, blowing them out with compressed air to be sure, and that the valves were tested for functionality (they are a simple open/closed action, operated electrically).

One of the valves associated with the canister acts as a vent for the gas tank and can cause problems when filling the tank. I would examine and test the valves to make sure they are functional.

The rumor's of my death have been greatly exaggerated..................😉

Working from memory here, so bear with me: To gain access to the canister remove the black plastic cover over the brake booster. Its in front of the battery, near the center of the vehicle but slightly towards the pass. side. The cover is held in with maybe 8 Philips screws. Once that is removed you will see there is a plastic bracket that holds the canister to the body, if I remember right its held in with a T40 screw. After that you have two "quick" disconnect lines on the bottom of the canister and one electrical connector on the top of the canister. Its kind of a beast to get out, the connections on the bottom of the canister are tricky to get to.

Welcome to RennTech Noting your comment about rodents, there is a flap valve in the gas fill neck that is operated by a combination of a switch and magnet that has to open for gas to flow in. It is located on the side of the filler neck itself. I would start there, checking the associated wiring for damage. This diagram if for an earlier Boxster, but you can see the controls near the top of the filler neck, yours should be similar: Good luck, rodent damage is always a pain to work on.

That cover opens into the engine's cooling system, so don't go there. Remove the manifold section that is in the way.

The engine panel behind the seats is not obstructed when the top is down, simply remove the carpeted panel to expose the metal panel held in by fasteners. Remove the fasteners, and you are staring at the belt.

PTFE is Teflon, not Gore-Tex.

First of all, the 2000 - 2002 cars are well known for requiring long drive cycles before resetting the I/M Readiness monitors, having to drive 200 or more miles is common. Second, disconnecting the battery will take you back to zero; the monitors in question will have to start all over again if you do that.

For the most part, the regulators are lubed with white lithium grease, and a very little goes a long way with this stuff as it tends to stick to everything, so you don't want excess getting all over everything. The motor should not need relubrication.