Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,813
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    207

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. A clock spring is beneath the air bag in the steering wheel. P0740 is the code for multiple possible issues: Fluid level not correct Torque converter clutch worn Mechanical damage to pressure regulator #4. Open electrical circuit(s) or short(s). Stuck valve body valve. Most commonly, the fluid level is not correct.
  2. I have a question: Why? I have spent a good portion of my life working on these cars, nothing is ever simple or remotely inexpensive. I have seen the photos you have posted on other sites, and really wonder why you are taking on something of this magnitude?
  3. The factory default for the valves is the loud position, so if they are not hooked up, that is what you get. The valves only move to the "quiet" position when activated. The original reason for the valves was the incredibly restrictive Swiss noise laws for residential neighborhoods, so when the vehicle was operating a low speeds, it was quiet.
  4. What you are overlooking is the simple fact that most PSE post delivery installations never hooked anything up as the default position for the valves is "loud", which is what people wanted the PSE for in the first place. So who's valves are on the exhaust system is pretty much irrelevant. We have probably installed a couple dozen PSE's over the years and I can only remember one that the owner wanted fully hooked up; and later even he eventually said activation of the valves was a waste of money.
  5. The code is pretty specific, it is seeing a difference between where the MAF is and where the throttle body is located; the leak has to be in between those two elements, but does not preclude that there may be other leaks that have not thrown codes.
  6. You can use a smoke test to find intake systems leak.
  7. P0441 code is EVAP purge valve, alongside the drive side intake manifold tubes. P2281 Code is most likely an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body, the code generally means that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a degree of airflow at the mass airflow (MAF) sensor which does not exist at the throttle body.
  8. Only proves that even blind squirrel finds and acorn every once in a while........................
  9. Running the wrong juice in these gearboxes can get real expensive real quick.........😉
  10. It could, but failing hydraulic tensioners typically cause excessive start up noise, not deviation value problems. As you would be removing the hydraulic tensioners to replace the pads, it would be a good time to update them, just be careful as the tensioners are not all the same and cannot be interchanged.
  11. Perhaps, but then every day you get to make all new friends..........................😱
  12. They have a snap on ball connector at the transmission end, which wear with time and become loose:
  13. Different, but not my taste. Sorry!
  14. Unfortunately, this is a common sign of wear on the chain pads between the cams, which requires replacing the pads and retiming the cams:
  15. The factory fluid is the way to go with these gearboxes. I would change the fluid and see how the gearbox responds; if you still have the second gear issue, I would be looking at the detent.
  16. First of all, these transmissions are very sensitive to the lubricant used; over the years, we have had numerous cars come into the shop with everything from noise complaints to poor shifting issues (particularly in the cold), and for the most part everyone was cured by thoroughly draining the lube out of the gearbox and then refilling with the factory fluid. Most people do not realize that Porsche factory lube, which is a full synthetic, is produced to Porsche specs, and does not conform to aftermarket product specs. At one time, we inquired of several major lube companies if they had an exact match product, and were uniformly told that, “No, Porsche uses a unique specification lubricant, and the brand market is too small for us to produce a similar product.” That said, even the factory fill cannot correct existing wear issues, or mechanical issues. Second gear pop out is a well known problem which can often be corrected by installing an updated detent part like the Gbox fix.
  17. You will be happy with the Stant stuff, some of mine is over 30 years old and still work like new. Never hurts to buy quality, especially with tools. Amazon is always a great source of both parts and tools.
  18. First of all, welcome to RennTech The clutch is either slipping or it isn't; there are no in between on this. Regardless of why, you need to pull the car apart and look at it to see what kind of condition it is in. Then you will start the "while you are in there" items like the RMS, IMS bearing, and AOS unit; all items that would require either pulling it back apart down the road, or in the case of the AOS, several hours of tedious effort to replace a device that could have been done in about 5 min. while you had the trans out. Good luck.
  19. Start by running voltage drop test across the primary battery cables. The cables and their ends can look great, but have internal corrosion in the cable itself which can lead to all sorts of problems. If you see more than 0.5V drop on any cable, it needs to be replaced. I would also load test the battery, just to be sure it is in good order.
  20. Unfortunately, what you read online is a distillate; you only see the small number of complaints, not the majority of those that are happy with their choices. As long as the vehicle has been appropriately serviced and not had the living Hell beat out of it, you will probably be fine. Early PDK issues were mostly software and/or abuse related; once Porsche got the software issues corrected, the PDK has proven to be reliable.
  21. Sorry, but some do exactly that. You can test a given model by locking the car and arming the security system. Wait about five min. and unlock the door with key fob, but don't touch anything. If it has the feature, it will relock the car and arm the security system all by itself after a few min. have passed.
  22. Welcome to RennTech Double (or multiple) posting and "bumping" previous post are not allowed under the rules of the forum you agreed to when you joined. Please be patient, and if one of the board moderators or members knows of a workable solution, they will respond.
  23. I think you are mixing things; The air powered Maddox cooling system tool is for filling the system under vacuum. While it will indicate the presence of leaks as a loss of vacuum, it is not useful for locating them, for that you need to be able to pressurize the system to its rated level, and then look for wherever coolant is coming out. This can be accelerated by adding a UV dye to the coolant, which will glow when hit with UV light, a common shop procedure. As for where Maddox tools are made, Maddox tools is one of many registered trademarks of Harbor Freight (details here: https://trademarks.justia.com/870/58/maddox-87058197.html) I think the Maddox you are thinking of is Maddox Metal Works, Dallas, which produce equipment for the food processing, aerospace & defense, oil field & steel mill equipment and other industries (http://www.maddoxmetalworks.com/aboutus.htm). As for where Harbor Freight sources their tools, they state "All of our tools are designed and built in partnership with the same factories that many of our top leading competitors use." In reality, if you order three or more of these tools from HF, you get a complimentary order of Dim sum. 😱
  24. The one from harbor freight is cheaper for a reason, it is not well made as the Stant, but the choice is yours.
  25. We have used the Stant pressure testing system for many, many years; well made and they are constantly adding new adaptor's. The one to fit your Boxster is actually listed as a VW unit, part number 12016, Amazon sells them :
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.