JFP in PA

We have not resorted to taking them apart, we replace them if they have issues.

When working properly and pumped up full of oil, they should be firm.

Not surprised by your comment, but you also need to know that one of the most frequent questions we get about changing the Tip fluid is "Who makes something cheaper than the OEM fluid?" We see many people using fluid designed for Toyota's and God knows what else because they don't want to pay the price for the correct fluid. We also see quite a few DIY fluid changes that went bad no because of the fluid used, but because people did not follow the recommended procedures to do the change; and then they complain they have problems. As I mentioned above, there is no ATF on earth that was designed to go 160K miles, we have done customer cars at shorter intervals for years and never had a problem.

Change it. We serviced the Tips in customer cars at 40-50K mile intervals. No ATF on earth should be run for 160K miles.

Please feel free to continue to drink the Kool Aid brought to you by the same superb engineering staff that not only created the A40 marketing spec, but has also brought the market such engineering masterpieces as CIS fuel injection, IMS failures, M97 and 9A1 bore scoring, and other mechanical wonders to behold. There was a time, back before Exxon bought Mobil, when Mobil 1 products were quality products, but that time is long gone. Over the intervening years, Exxon has reduced the Mobil 1 product line to a shadow of what it once was as the direct result of the bean counters cost concerns of using higher group base polymer types, several times even losing the ACEA rating that the German automotive industry adheres to as members of the ACEA technical consortium. And one of the most problematic products is their vaunted 0W-40 oil. Independent UOA analysis has shown that this once excellent product not only has very little quality anti wear additives such as ZDDP when virgin, but can be also reduced to the equivalent of a 0W-15 product in less than 2,500 mile in a soccer mom’s Cadillac. The Joe Gibbs oil you describe as “exotic”, but can found in such mundane outlets like Amazon, has demonstrated UOA’s with higher ZDDP levels after 6,000 miles of mixed street/track use than any Mobil 1 product ever had when still a virgin product still in the bottle, 60-75% TBN values at the same mileage where your A40 Mobil 1 product demonstrated 25-30% TBN, indication of the viscosity control and anti wear additives packages being nearly dead at less than 3,000 miles, and the oil being way beyond the industry accepted TBN level where the oil should be changed (50% TBN). And this is an A40 rated oil Porsche recommends you run for 12,000 to 15,000 miles between changes. At the end of the day, feel free to use whatever oil you want in your car; it is your car and your money, and you are the only one that needs to worry about the consequences of your choices. You may want to continue to blindly follow factory recommendations that are more based upon marketing and accounting considerations than engineering, but when people ask my opinions, I try to give them the benefits of my over 40 years of successfully building and racing the Porsche engines, what I and my team have collectively seen operating a very successful independent performance oriented shop, and the the data we collected, which by-the-by includes a database of literally thousands of UOA’s on many brands and types of oils. So while you call that “self promotion”, I and others might see my comments for what they really are: Accumulated hard earned experience and data based knowledge.

I always like to check the oil level stone cold; if it needs just a bit, I add some, and then leave it alone until it has been run and completely cooled down again. I also never fill these cars to the max level, I always like to leave them a bit down, maybe half a quart. Over the years, we noticed fewer smokey starts and AOS issues when the oil level is slightly low.

Oil level sensors in these cars are rarely very responsive, sometimes when you add oil nothing seems to happen for some time, then it suddenly changes. I wouldn't worry very much about the oil pressure, there are too many variables (oil weight, oil temperature, variations in the display itself, etc.) for it to be perfectly accurate; and in your case the pressure is higher than the manual, which is fine.

Only problem is that you currently do not know that is correct, the dash gauges may be misleading and the oil light came on for a reason.

If the car was in my shop, the very first thing we would do would be to hook up a known mechanical oil pressure test gauge to the car to find out what is going on and what kind of oil pressure it actually has. I would strongly recommend not driving the car until you do know.

Could be multiple things: Low oil level, oil itself it tapped out and needs changing, oil pressure sensor is failing, oil pump needs by pass piston and spring upgrade. You need to do some diagnostics.

Porsche part # 000-043-305-49 is a manual transmission lubricant, and should not be used in the Tiptronic. Tip fluid should be part #000-043-304-01

Yes, it matters.

You will still need access to a PIWIS unit to correctly code the module after it is installed. The module itself is a couple of fasteners and a wiring harness plug.

Board sponsor Sunset Porsche sells the factory replacements for around $35: Sunset wipers ; and Amazon sells them for about $31. You cannot buy just the rubber section, you need to get new blades.

That should not be leaking.

Welcome to RennTech Porsche magazines like Panorama and Excellence have run articles from time to time listing colors by popularity, you might want to search old issues.

Part of that rise in price is driven by concern over the widening move to EV's.

Welcome to RennTech Anyone that has spent any time running back to back dyno test of various hardware on a single vehicle would tell you the +/-3 HP run to run should be considered experimental error more than proof of anything, as well as rarely reproducible; and that dyno results on totally different brands of vehicles are not comparable. But it is your car and your money, and if you are happy with your choice of air filters, enjoy.

No, just an astute observer of human nature and the tendency of people to dispose of things people think unimportant. If you just look at the number of radio code request on this website, you will quickly understand that a simple four digit code, which comes with the car on a plastic card that tells you what it is and why you should safely store it, and is often written in the owners manual by the dealers as well is nowhere to be found by the original owner five years down the road when the battery needs to be replaced. If they cannot find that when it is required, the chance of unexplained small paper tags surviving is even more limited. Short of requiring the owners to have the data tattooed on their foreheads, you have near zero probability of the tag's information surviving, and why shops that regularly service Porsches have a regulated power supply to maintain the radio code while swapping out batteries.........................😉

One big problem with that, is if you purchased the car new, you probably didn't get the code tags as most dealers throw them away. So by the time the vehicle is in the hands of a second or third owner, you are "SOL" as the expression goes. 😐 We have even more than once had a single owner lose them after having to get new keys or having to preplace the central locking computer because water got under the seat and killed it.

Here is where that falls apart: The code on the white tag is fed to the PIWIS system, which runs it through some sort of "protected" algorithm to generate another code sequence that is then fed to the central locking computer under the seat, where it is stored in an encrypted form. The DME stores nothing. When you put a working key into the ignition, the central locking computer sends a "go/no go" signal to the DME to start the car, if the information from the pill in the key corresponds to the encrypted code sequence in the central locking unit, the correct start signal is sent to start the car. So the DME has nothing stored in it, and the central locking computer as an encrypted code sequence that triggers the system to function, only if the pill matches what it expects to see. So even having the original white tag gets you nowhere with out the PIWIS to generate the second code sequence and then encrypt it to a form the central locking computer accepts. One or two firms have figured out how to lift the encrypted data off the central locking unit and transfer it to another, but that only works with the original keys; and to my knowledge no one outside of Porsche has figured out how to get the code for a new key stored in the central locking system without the PIWIS. You have to remember that the reason for the key pill system is to keep people from stealing the cars, so they didn't make it either easy or cheap to replicate the key. 😉

Problem is that the information is in what is called an RFID "pill", which cannot be altered without killing the coding, which is why the dealer network makes a killing selling replacements. You can try moving the pill, but you could end up right back where you started 😱

Good looking 986!

Welcome to RennTech It would be a good idea to replace all the hoses with that many miles on it. Bigger problem is getting at the hoses where the metal coolant lines reach to the radiators, which requires removing the front bumper cover, but also affords you a chance to clean between the AC and coolant radiators to get all the accumulated crud out of there.

Yup. And only two firms make the center bolt, Porsche who's design is flawed due to an undercut area that is a failure point, and they will not sell separately (plus you have to buy their entire shaft to get one); and LN's better design, which they also will not sell separately.