JFP in PA

There will always be some ferrous material on a magnetic drain plug, or inside the filter housing when using a Filter Mag; the question is how much is too much. It is not uncommon for people to panic the first time they change oil after installing a magnetic plug, or in particular the Filter Mag, as the first change will show what has been collecting for the entire life span of the engine before the magnetic field was introduced. Because the drain plug see way less of the volume of oil that the Filter Mag does, large amounts there are very concerning, which is why I would drop the sump cover next to see what we are dealing with. Pulling the sump cover is not difficult or expensive, but it will answer the question about what to do next with certainty.

Ferrous debris can come from multiple sources such as the crankshaft, valve springs, cams, and of course the IMS bearing. Problem is that having ferrous debris running around in the oil is much like having sand in there, it will abrade all the bearing surfaces. The correct move at this juncture is to drop the sump cover; if there is even more inside there, your options are limited, as is the life expectancy of the engine. You cannot simple try to flush this stuff out, there are far too many places it can collect inside the engine, and it will start to move around over time, slowly tearing things up. The oil passages in these engines are infamous for being difficult to clean out, even once the engine is disassembled, requiring the use of an ultra sonic engine block bath system to shake it loose. A long time ago, LN set a protocol for inspection prior to doing an IMS retrofit in order to prevent people from throwing good money at a bad situation that is most likely to kill a brand new and expensive IMS bearing; that protocol starts with looking for the presence of metal in the oil, and particularly in the sump before starting the retrofit. What you saw on the drain plug would be enough to require pulling the sump cover for inspection. More metal there would disqualify the engine for an update.

Fine iron filings typically look black in oil. If you still have any, try magnet on it.

That has nothing to do with the amount of metal filings on the plug, accumulated metal (particularly ferrous metal) is a bad sign.

That looks like a little more than I would expect to see. If the car was in my shop, I would drop the sump cover and have a good look; if you find a lot more of the same thing, the engine is definitely beyond the point of even thinking about an IMS retrofit. That kind of grit running around in the oil will kill a replacement IMS bearing that is open to allow oil into it.

You don't need to use the dealer to get this type of information, there are websites that list every known plug type to every brand known to mankind. The two plugs you noted above are exactly the same, other than their electrode metals; one is platinum, the other nickel; otherwise they are exactly the same. Summit Racing sells the Motorcraft AGSF22N for $4 each, Advanced Auto Parts is closer to $5. There is no magic here, Generac is trying to screw you on the part, which is common. My 33 Kw Kohler used an air filter that they sell for $45, Wix makes it for them and you can buy them on Amazon for $7, you just need to know what to ask for. Amazon sells your original SP 521 plug for $9. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SP-521-Spark-Plug/dp/B004A2BGC0 Generac does not make their own spark plugs, they buy them and mark them up to sell it uninformed buyers that do not know any better. A very little knowledge goes a long way towards saving money 😉

OK, let's separate the wheat from the chaff on plug construction; assuming the plug is the correct thread size, heat range, and length for the application, the next biggest question is the materials of construction. Durability is a function of what the electrodes are made of, and falls in a simple order from the most durable to the least: Iridium/platinum/nickel/copper. In a car engine, an iridium plug can easily go 100K miles in a harsh application, while a copper plug may need to be changed out after only 20-30K miles simply because the copper is the least durable metal.

Just a suggestion, but it would seem you are overthinking this a bit, plus I wouldn't use either plug in the generator. For some years now, iridium plugs, which outlast and outperform just about any other plug technology on the market in the harshest spark plug applications, have been available. As your standby generator has to work when you need it to, I would be looking for an Iridium plug cross reference for the Motorcraft plugs and simply forget about what the manufacturer recommends. I have personally used Denso Iridium plugs in everything from my Porsche, to my 33 Kw Kohler standby generator, to my leaf blower, and never had any issues, which is the way I like things to be. 😉

AGSF22N AGSF22F1

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No.

The connector is about 10inches up the harness from the CPS sensor itself, you can see it clearly in this video about how to replace the CPS: How to replace a Boxster CPS sensor

Welcome to RennTech You should be looking for CARTOOL – Nr 96 0 000 or what Porsche sells as “Porsche Electrical Connector Repair Kit”, which should be assortment of what you are looking for. Most of the electrical connectors in the car are VW items, but finding each individual component of the connectors is a nightmare. Quite often, we carefully removed the old pins and reused them when we could not quickly find replacements.

Worse comes to worse, you can always smoke test the intake looking for leaks. You can also test the AOS unit with a digital manometer. Good luck!

Welcome to RennTech P2177 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 1 (FRAU1) – Above Limit Possible fault cause - Intake air system leaking - Leaking exhaust system (draws fresh air) - Incorrect main charge signal from MAF sensor - Fuel pressure too low - Fuel injector(s) mechanically faulty (sticks) - Volume supply of fuel pump too low P2179 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 2 (FRAU2) - Above Limit Possible fault cause - Intake air system leaking - Leaking exhaust system (draws fresh air) - Incorrect main charge signal from MAF sensor - Fuel pressure too low - Fuel injector(s) mechanically faulty (sticks) - Volume supply of fuel pump too low Since this affects both banks - it looks like you likely have an air leak.

Could be a sign that the DME has a RoW tune in it rather than the North American code.

The magic "pin out box", made by special order by the elf's of the Black Forest, with a $2,000+ price tag. What it does is to allow you to connect a multimeter to circuits that are already completely connected and test for voltage and/or continuity. In reality, you can do the same thing with thin wire back pin probes that slip into the rear of the car's connectors and get the same readings: No where as elegant as the factory pinout box, but they are one Hell of a lot cheaper and get the job done.

You Durametric system is as close as you are going to get to something like the PIWIS without spending $20,000 to lease a factory tool. The Durametric is very capable, I use one my self for most things. But on thing you need to remember: Diagnostic tools only give you a sense of direction, not a set of directions; so any of them, including the almighty PIWIS, are only as good as the intuition of the operator. Diagnostic's are slow and often arduous, often leading down several dead ends before your find the actual problem by a process of elimination.

A "global" OBD II scanner (read on OEM tool) should be able to see a lot of things, but when you get down to the more difficult diagnostics, a Porsche specific tool like the Durametric system, PST II, or PIWIS can see thing that the global tool cannot, and most global tools are incapable of doing system actuations for test purposes.

P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Open Circuit P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Below Limit P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Above Limit Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for continuity. 1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 2. Remove connector X 2/3. 3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and to X 2/3 on pin side, pin 11. Display: 0 - 5 ohms If infinite ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. 4. Remove connector III of instrument cluster. 5. Connect ohmmeter to X 2/3, sleeve side, and to connector III of instrument cluster, pin 2. Display: 0 - 5 ohms If infinite ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for short to ground. 1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 2. Remove connector III of instrument cluster. 3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and ground. Display: infinite ohms If 0 - 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage. Check wiring from DME control module, pin IV/31, to instrument cluster for short to B+. 1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 2. Remove connector III of instrument cluster. 3. Switch on the ignition. 4. Connect voltmeter to special tool 9637, pin IV/31, and ground. Display: 0 V If battery voltage is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

And all 3.2's were either Tips or six speeds................. Good catch Mike 😉

I think that Sunset, being both a very reputable Porsche parts dealer, and a board sponsor; while ECS is neither. i looked up the part number you gave me, but Sunset can run your VIN and tell you exactly what part should be in the car.

Board sponsor Sunset Porsche sells that new part for $47.44.

I would test both the battery (load test) and the charging system before replacing anything. If either is weak, replacing it should clear the code. It may be possible that the sensor can be replaced if it is a serviceable item (not all are) but you need to know if it is a ghost code caused by the battery/charging system before doing anything else. If the sensor is not serviceable, the PDK has to come out and be replaced, they cannot always be serviced in the field, even by a dealer.

Welcome to RennTech P1707 is a transmission sensor code, often triggered by a weak battery or charging system.