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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The engine panel behind the seats is not obstructed when the top is down, simply remove the carpeted panel to expose the metal panel held in by fasteners. Remove the fasteners, and you are staring at the belt.
  2. First of all, the 2000 - 2002 cars are well known for requiring long drive cycles before resetting the I/M Readiness monitors, having to drive 200 or more miles is common. Second, disconnecting the battery will take you back to zero; the monitors in question will have to start all over again if you do that.
  3. For the most part, the regulators are lubed with white lithium grease, and a very little goes a long way with this stuff as it tends to stick to everything, so you don't want excess getting all over everything. The motor should not need relubrication.
  4. The 97 DME was a kind of "one off", so with very low numbers, there wasn't a whole lot of attempts or interest to modify it. The immobilizer issue is a real one, as losing the keys, or letting the immobilizer get wet under the seat, a common problem, results in spending a lot of cash just to get back on the road, much less in any better condition because you have to buy both an immobilizer and a matching DME. That is one of the reasons people moved to the 98-99 DME, which would accept immobilizer only replacements. Realistically, headers and exhaust will make more noise, but only a very slight power increase, along with the dreaded exhaust drone that haunts many aftermarket systems. Modified plenums only make very small power increases at the extreme high end of the RPM range, and considering their cost, the benefit for dollar spent is rather small. And aftermarket cold air systems add next to nothing; as the car came from the factory with a cold air system. As for removing the "snorkel", that simply makes the car sound different, otherwise adds nothing.
  5. Exactly how do you know, "I own one of the first 1997 Boxsters 2.5L sold in America."? And the only thing that is not programmable on the 1997 is the immobilizer code information, in all other aspects it is programable. If your immobilizer has to be replaced, you have to get a new DME that is matched to it, rather than just reprogram the DME to accept the new immobilizer as in the later cars. The aftermarket crowd didn't do much for these cars because the DME is unique to the year, not because it is inaccessible. Your DME can also be replaced with the DME from a 98-99 car (if it is reprogrammed to your car's specs) to overcome the unique DME and immobilizer issue. In order to make anything more than marginally detectable on a dyno horsepower, you are going to need to spend a lot of $. Everything you listed in your post will add little, if any, additional HP, regardless of what the advertisements say. In many cases, some of these modifications actually lost HP when tested on a dyno. Over the years, we have seen people buy a lot of bolt on's, expecting more power, only to be disappointed with the out come. To get real, measurable improvement's, you are looking at spending well north of $10K. You would be better off spending some money on driver's education classes at a track, where you will learn how to get the most out of the car.
  6. Should work fine. The thermostat has to be remove to facilitate full flow.
  7. We built an entire system to do this that included a hot water heater, and a catch tank, which recirculated hot water with detergent in it to clean out the system. The pump came from a plumbing store. We set it up with hoses that connected to the hose to the thermostat housing after removing the thermostat, and to the line coming back from the radiators. Everything was mounted on a cart so we could role it under the car while it was up on the lift.
  8. Welcome to RennTech I would start by flipping the seats forward, removing the engine panel, and taking a look at your serpentine belt. which may either be broken or worn so badly it is slipping. All of your issues seem to be electric in nature, so your battery may be weak, possible due to the belt, or just weak on its own. If this isn't the source of the problems, I would look next at the electrical section of your ignition switch, a relatively inexpensive items that is well know for being the source of all sorts of electrical gremlins.
  9. I think your efforts would be highly educational for many forum members, if only to address a specific issue they might be working on. You also have my, and I am sure others, admiration for tackling a herculean project. Your alarm problem could be related to the vehicle's sound system, some of the component's were connected to the alarm system to prevent them from being stolen. One way to find out is to scan the car with a Porsche specific scan tool like the Durametric system. These scan tool can read the last ten alarm faults stored in the DME, and could point you to exactly what is triggering the system. Good luck! 👍
  10. I think you just identified it, those motors are designed to be momentary, not constantly run 😒
  11. A clock spring is beneath the air bag in the steering wheel. P0740 is the code for multiple possible issues: Fluid level not correct Torque converter clutch worn Mechanical damage to pressure regulator #4. Open electrical circuit(s) or short(s). Stuck valve body valve. Most commonly, the fluid level is not correct.
  12. I have a question: Why? I have spent a good portion of my life working on these cars, nothing is ever simple or remotely inexpensive. I have seen the photos you have posted on other sites, and really wonder why you are taking on something of this magnitude?
  13. The factory default for the valves is the loud position, so if they are not hooked up, that is what you get. The valves only move to the "quiet" position when activated. The original reason for the valves was the incredibly restrictive Swiss noise laws for residential neighborhoods, so when the vehicle was operating a low speeds, it was quiet.
  14. What you are overlooking is the simple fact that most PSE post delivery installations never hooked anything up as the default position for the valves is "loud", which is what people wanted the PSE for in the first place. So who's valves are on the exhaust system is pretty much irrelevant. We have probably installed a couple dozen PSE's over the years and I can only remember one that the owner wanted fully hooked up; and later even he eventually said activation of the valves was a waste of money.
  15. The code is pretty specific, it is seeing a difference between where the MAF is and where the throttle body is located; the leak has to be in between those two elements, but does not preclude that there may be other leaks that have not thrown codes.
  16. You can use a smoke test to find intake systems leak.
  17. P0441 code is EVAP purge valve, alongside the drive side intake manifold tubes. P2281 Code is most likely an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body, the code generally means that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a degree of airflow at the mass airflow (MAF) sensor which does not exist at the throttle body.
  18. Only proves that even blind squirrel finds and acorn every once in a while........................
  19. Running the wrong juice in these gearboxes can get real expensive real quick.........😉
  20. It could, but failing hydraulic tensioners typically cause excessive start up noise, not deviation value problems. As you would be removing the hydraulic tensioners to replace the pads, it would be a good time to update them, just be careful as the tensioners are not all the same and cannot be interchanged.
  21. Perhaps, but then every day you get to make all new friends..........................😱
  22. They have a snap on ball connector at the transmission end, which wear with time and become loose:
  23. Different, but not my taste. Sorry!
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