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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Board sponsor Sunset Porsche sells the factory replacements for around $35: Sunset wipers ; and Amazon sells them for about $31. You cannot buy just the rubber section, you need to get new blades.
  2. That should not be leaking.
  3. Welcome to RennTech Porsche magazines like Panorama and Excellence have run articles from time to time listing colors by popularity, you might want to search old issues.
  4. Part of that rise in price is driven by concern over the widening move to EV's.
  5. Welcome to RennTech Anyone that has spent any time running back to back dyno test of various hardware on a single vehicle would tell you the +/-3 HP run to run should be considered experimental error more than proof of anything, as well as rarely reproducible; and that dyno results on totally different brands of vehicles are not comparable. But it is your car and your money, and if you are happy with your choice of air filters, enjoy.
  6. No, just an astute observer of human nature and the tendency of people to dispose of things people think unimportant. If you just look at the number of radio code request on this website, you will quickly understand that a simple four digit code, which comes with the car on a plastic card that tells you what it is and why you should safely store it, and is often written in the owners manual by the dealers as well is nowhere to be found by the original owner five years down the road when the battery needs to be replaced. If they cannot find that when it is required, the chance of unexplained small paper tags surviving is even more limited. Short of requiring the owners to have the data tattooed on their foreheads, you have near zero probability of the tag's information surviving, and why shops that regularly service Porsches have a regulated power supply to maintain the radio code while swapping out batteries.........................😉
  7. One big problem with that, is if you purchased the car new, you probably didn't get the code tags as most dealers throw them away. So by the time the vehicle is in the hands of a second or third owner, you are "SOL" as the expression goes. 😐 We have even more than once had a single owner lose them after having to get new keys or having to preplace the central locking computer because water got under the seat and killed it.
  8. Here is where that falls apart: The code on the white tag is fed to the PIWIS system, which runs it through some sort of "protected" algorithm to generate another code sequence that is then fed to the central locking computer under the seat, where it is stored in an encrypted form. The DME stores nothing. When you put a working key into the ignition, the central locking computer sends a "go/no go" signal to the DME to start the car, if the information from the pill in the key corresponds to the encrypted code sequence in the central locking unit, the correct start signal is sent to start the car. So the DME has nothing stored in it, and the central locking computer as an encrypted code sequence that triggers the system to function, only if the pill matches what it expects to see. So even having the original white tag gets you nowhere with out the PIWIS to generate the second code sequence and then encrypt it to a form the central locking computer accepts. One or two firms have figured out how to lift the encrypted data off the central locking unit and transfer it to another, but that only works with the original keys; and to my knowledge no one outside of Porsche has figured out how to get the code for a new key stored in the central locking system without the PIWIS. You have to remember that the reason for the key pill system is to keep people from stealing the cars, so they didn't make it either easy or cheap to replicate the key. 😉
  9. Problem is that the information is in what is called an RFID "pill", which cannot be altered without killing the coding, which is why the dealer network makes a killing selling replacements. You can try moving the pill, but you could end up right back where you started 😱
  10. Good looking 986!
  11. Welcome to RennTech It would be a good idea to replace all the hoses with that many miles on it. Bigger problem is getting at the hoses where the metal coolant lines reach to the radiators, which requires removing the front bumper cover, but also affords you a chance to clean between the AC and coolant radiators to get all the accumulated crud out of there.
  12. Yup. And only two firms make the center bolt, Porsche who's design is flawed due to an undercut area that is a failure point, and they will not sell separately (plus you have to buy their entire shaft to get one); and LN's better design, which they also will not sell separately.
  13. Welcome to RennTech Just as a by-the-by, there is vastly more to the IMS bearing than just its physical dimensions, as some have discovered the very hard way. The materials of construction of the balls, the races, and in particular, the ball cages are all critical issues in this application, as is the materials used in the end seals as even Porsche has discovered the hard way. It is also important to know that it is not uncommon for certain bearings to be produced exclusively for a single firm, as many people have discovered trying to find the exact bearing(s) that firms such as LN Engineering sell for retrofits. A lot of people have tried to cobble together a cheaper, off the shelf, replacement; to my knowledge to date none have actually done it.
  14. welcome to RennTech Amazon my have what you are looking for; https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=outside+mirror+wide+angle+stick+on&ref=nb_sb_noss
  15. We typically do not leave this type of sealant to set for any specific period of time, but one of the big things is to use sealant sparingly, meaning running a narrow bead on the cover surface and around each bolt hole before putting the cover in place. One of the reasons you sometimes see a silicon spike in UoA's after doing this comes from using too much sealant, causing squeeze out, so it shows up in the oil. Too much squeeze out and you can end up with the excess sealant breaking off and ending up in places like the oil pump pickup screen as has been noted, so using "just enough" is the right way to go. If you do see a spike in silicon in your oil after a repair using sealant, the level should drop off with succeeding oil changes as the sealant cures. You need to also be aware that many oils use silicone based anti foaming additives, which will test as silicon in a UoA, so it is necessary to have a virgin oil baseline analysis to reference what levels should be there to begin with.
  16. P0706 is for an implausible signal from the multifunction switch, usually a discontinuity. Typical faults: Wiring problem Multifunctional switch failure Tiptronic control module
  17. Amazon sells Nickle based anti seize if you cannot find it elsewhere. I have these billet tubes in both my personal cars, as well as many customer cars; while more expensive than the OEM plastic tubes, I have found them to be a "once and done" fix for leaking tubes.
  18. I like to use billet aluminum replacement tubes from a company called Rauch and Spiegel: The primary mode of the OEM tube failures happen because the molded plastic tubes are not actually round, have molding flash lines, and that they harden and crack over time. These billet tubes suffer from none of those short comings, use the factory O-rings, and simply just work. As for plug anti seize, I prefer the Nickle based high temp anti seize on plugs; never had any issues with it. Correct torque spec is 22 ft. lbs.
  19. Welcome to RennTech It sounds like your footwell circuit has either lose electrical power, or its ground connection. Time to grab a multimeter and start checking wires. 😉 Also be aware that LED's are polarity sensitive; unlike halogen bulbs, which way the wires are connected matter.
  20. Use the Loctite 5900 sparingly; excess sealant is usually found clogging the oil pickup. Cover bolts torqued to 7.5 ft. lbs. ( I would use an inch pound wrench set to 90 inch pounds, which is much more accurate at low torque values).
  21. You can get a set of small "ez out" hex bits, one of which should fit tightly into the bolt head while rotating counter clockwise, which will loosen the stripped fastener. Amazon and others sell them (Amazon screw/bolt extractor set)
  22. The sump cover is a flat plate with an attached baffle system used to reduce oil slosh. What you would be looking for is an accumulation of material similar to what was on the drain plug, or any other accumulated material that should not be in there. When you get it down, take pictures to post here so we can see what you find.. The sump cover is sealed to the engine with a sealant material, there is no gasket. Reinstallation requires thoroughly cleaning the mating surfaces, applying a thin bead of sealant to the cover, pushing it into place and properly torqueing the bolts. You cannot see the IMS bearing from below as it sits below the crankshaft, which is housed in its own carrier assembly.
  23. OK, the reason I asked is that it is possible to blow out that seal if you jack the pressure up too high (I have seen people go to over 20 PSIG, which the fluid reservoir was never meant to see, and the seal fails). I would check with a dealer to see if the seal is available by itself, but I suspect it is not.
  24. How much pressure were you using on the Motive bleeder?
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