JFP in PA

As the dyes do not affect anything, they will be fine. We have always used the Uview dye systems with excellent results.

You are looking at around one hour of diagnostic time, and as dealer hourly cost vary with geography, which can be anywhere from around $150 to as much as $300. The problem with the convertible top well flooding has been well known and documented since the early 2000's. The well under where the tops stores is well designed to collect water and funnel it to the two drains that drop it under the car. Problem has been from day one that these drains quickly become plugged with grass clippings, leaf debris and the like, resulting in the well becoming flooded. When the car is in motion, and the brakes are applied, a wave of the trapped water sloshes over the well lip and directly under the driver's seat where the central locking module lives. Around 2001-2002 Porsche realized there was a significant problem (due to the number of modules they were replacing under warranty) and released the specially contoured screens to protect the well drains. Having installed a ton of these screens, you would be amazed at how many cars had either one or both drains completely plugged, and even had standing water in the wells. The preventative fix is simple: Clean out the drains with compressed air and/or soapy water, then plug in the screens. Problem solved, I have had them in my personal car since they were released, and drains have never needed cleaning again................😉

To offer any real assistance, we need the exact codes that were read; without them, anything would be a guess.

The central locking computer is toast. It may be repairable, but that could end up costing more than getting a new one and having it programmed. Good luck and when you are paying for the new unit, remember that Porsche sells a $20 part that prevents this from happening:

Those traces look more like it. The check engine light will go off with miles.

No problem, that is what we are here for...................😉

The filter housing hold less than one liter of oil; if you are careful, you will lose very little replacing the O-ring. Also, make sure you didn't leave an O-ring behind when you first changed the oil (common mistake). As for the oil level, you should be running it two bars down from full in the first place.

Yes, you have a cat issue. The two O2 sensors should never be both cycling, which is why you got the code.

With the axles hanging down, there should be enough room. You can try rotating the bearing hub with the axle hanging to gain enough space to pull it out. It sometimes helps to jack up the hub end slightly as well. Some people disconnect the bottom of the shock to get more room:

Getting the axle to release from the hub may be difficult if it is still attached at the transmission end. The bolts on the transmission flange should not be all that tight (60 ft. lbs.).

Hey, everyone makes mistakes, so don't beat yourself up over it. Just try to make sure yours are little ones! Glad you got it sorted! 👍

You are always better to stay as close to the model year of the car when doing these swaps as Porsche likes to change things year to year. 00-02 engines should be a relatively easier candidate, with maybe a sensor or two that would need to be changed over. There are usually a fair number of engines for these cars running around at reasonable prices.

Welcome to RennTech This is going to be quite an undertaking. The 02 used very little CAN Bus technology for its electronics to communicate, while the 06 was a fully CAN Bus vehicle; along with which the fuel cam timing systems were completely different. In model year 2003, Porsche moved to a different VarioCam system (variable valve lift and timing) in the Boxster, which will require the later DME to function, which will also require the later wiring harness, but that later harness will not be a plug-in swap due to the CAN Bus and significant wiring differences that happened over time. It is possible to remap your existing DME via the aftermarket, but there will still be a lot of mismatched items to create work arounds to get functional. As the later DME is matched to the later immobilizer, you need the immobilizer as well, but due to wiring differences, the later DME will not be able to communicate with critical items like the dash cluster in the 02. And making the later DME work with the older chassis will not be a simple matter. Worse yet, if you did spend the time and considerable $ required to make this swap functional, you would have a one-off Frankenstein car which most buyers would (and should) run away from. You would be better off both financially and work wise finding another suitable engine (2000-02) that would simply bolt in; and you need to be aware that the article source you referenced is famous for glossing over how easy these swaps can be. Good luck with your project.

Sorry, I had a "momentary brain fart" on this one! For some reason I saw "996" instead of "993", possibly "old timer's" disease setting in...............🥵

Have your VIN ready when you call them, from that they should be able to tell you.

I'm not really sure on the usage of that small part. You may want to check with a dealer parts department to determine if your year engine used two or only one. The PET only lists one being used.

Both procedures involve specialized tooling; draining and flushing the cooling system is not much different than most cars, there is a drain plug near the thermostat housing for the purpose. Flushing should be done with distilled water, and the new coolant should be premixed with distilled water before refilling the system, which is where a special tool comes into play. The correct way to refill the system with the fresh mix it by using a tool like the Uview Airlift to evacuate the system first, then pull the coolant in under vacuum. This totally eliminates any chance for dangerous air pockets to form in the system. The AC system is similar, you need a freon capture system (you cannot simply vent it to the atmosphere) to recover what is currently in the system, and then R134A manifold gauge set and a nitrogen cylinder to flush the system, followed by the application of high vacuum from a pump to remove both the nitrogen and any moisture in the system for a period of time, after which the system can be recharged to the correct level (Porsche has a temp/pressure chart) to get the system operational. Now here is the downside of these procedures: The Airlift tool will set you back over $100 and needs a high-capacity air compressor to operate it correctly. The AC will require a nitrogen cylinder with pressure regulator (about $60 for the regulator, the cylinder cost is a local rental), and the capture/recharge system is about $5K. Most Porsche shops have all the necessary hardware and would charge you far less than what you would need to equip yourself to get both jobs done correctly.

Not necessarily if there is an intermittent short somewhere in the harness. The FSM states that if the sensor and wiring check out, to replace the Tip control module.

DTC 0710 indicates an open circuit or short to ground in the transmission temperature sensor Normal faults are wiring on the sensor harness, the temp sensor itself, or the Tiptronic control module.

Without physically seeing the entire engine, the answer to your first question would be a total guess. As to your second question; using crap oil, running the oil too long between changes. You should be running a high ZDDP content oil, changing it (and the filter) every 5-7K miles.

Not really. As there are no removable bearing inserts in the cylinder hear or cam cover, they simply cannot be bored or honed to clean them up as that would make the assembled cam bores too large; same with the cams themselves.

Whoever told you the entire axle has to be replaced is simply taking the easy way out and trying to replace the entire axle assembly. The boots are available as parts as shown in your diagram. So unless the axle is damaged, or the CV joints are bad, they are taking the easy way out, right through your wallet..................

The CV joints at both ends of your axles are housed inside flexible rubber boots that dry out and slit over time, allowing grease to be thrown out:

Welcome to RennTech First, don't panic. When you leave the oil cap off, the AOS is unable to maintain the correct level of vacuum in the oil sump that helps the very low-tension piston rings in these engines seal. So, no vacuum, no ring seal, and lots of oil gets up into the combustion chambers. Once the oil cap is back, everything returns to normal and the rings seal back up. Just make sure the oil level is correct, and I would add some Techron gas additive to the tank and fill it up. A couple of nice long drives should get rid of any residual oil 😉

The causes for this DTC may include: *Contaminated or failed HO2S2 (Sensor 2) *HO2S2 wiring/circuit problem *Fuel pressure incorrect *Faulty fuel injector *Engine coolant leak *Faulty purge solenoid valve