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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Contact board sponsor Sunset Porsche, they have a great website and carry it in stock. The factory stuff is full synthetic and has a long life. 😉
  2. It is your car and your money, and you are the only one that will have to deal with the outcome of that decision, but the car does not use a GL anything oil, regardless of what the boys at Exxon tell you..........................
  3. They really aren't once you understand how they work, then they just pop out.
  4. The spoiler cover is held in place by three small plastic push pins: Push the pins out with a small straight punch or the end of a small drill bit and they will fall into the spoiler trim cover. They are reusable, so recover them. Then you can lift the top cover off the spoiler. Then check the 2 Allen bolts that hold the metal body in place. You need to check that the metal body for the spoiler is centered is the opening an/or loose in some way.
  5. Porsche has typically used gear oils that are designed to their specifications, particularly in the five speeds because of the synchro ring materials of construction. As the result, the factory fill gear oils lack any API or "G" gradings because they are unique. A lot of the smaller aftermarket suppliers claim they have "equivalent" products, that in reality are not. Over the years, I have lost count of how many gallons of aftermarket gear oils we have drained out of customer cars due to complaints of poor shifting, particularly in the cold, noise, etc. And that includes a lot of Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil products. And except for transmissions that had sustained damage while using these aftermarket products, every time we switched the car back to the factory fill, all the customer's issues disappeared. Years ago, we contacted all the major gear oil vendors looking for a true match to the factory gear oils; Mobil 1 summed up best when they told us that "Porsche uses totally unique gear oil formulation requirement's, which are made to their specifications, and which do not match any of our off the shelf offerings. And as Porsche represents such a small segment of the overall market, we will not be attempting to replicate their formulation requirements."
  6. People tend to think that all Porsche's are laid out the same way, which could not be further from the facts if you tried. Glad you found it. And you do not need a special connection for the Ctek unit; these cars were designed so that the cigarette lighter socket stays hot all the time so you can plug the Ctek into that, run the wire out the driver's door thru a recess in the lower seal on the bottom of the dour almost directly below the door mirror, close and lock the car with the alarm on, and still have the maintainer keeping the system charged. Every Boxster made is this way 😉
  7. If it is not available in the Porsche part system, look in a junkyard that handles Porsche.
  8. Welcome to RennTech That is the factory outside air temperature sensor, which provides ambient temperature data to the DME to help the system adjust engine settings to temperature changes.
  9. Shops tend to function like the distillation process; very few cars come in to tell us everything is fine, and the owners have absolutely no problems 😉 Roseann Rosannadanna was correct, "...'if it's not one thing, it's another"...it's always somethin'."
  10. Depends upon how much time you have until you retire; the potential list is nearly endless: IMS, RMS, cracked cylinder heads, D-chunking, slipped cylinder liners, AOS, secondary air injection system, fuel pumps, battery cables, snapped oil pump drive, convertible top problems, second gear detent on six speeds, water getting to central locking/alarm computer, headlight wiring harness insulation falling off, power seat control issues, seat belt buckles, water pumps, etc., etc...............................I think you get the general idea, but a google search of known Boxster problems will keep you occupied for some time. 😉 And to be completely fair, Porsche is no worse than any other brand in this department; they all have issues, some little ones, others not so much.
  11. Considering that PCNA had to be the target of a class action law suit to acknowledge the IMS issue, which could result in catastrophic engine failures, I seriously doubt they would respond to this or several other known issues. Try cleaning the throttle jacking unit and the throttle body well with carburetor or fuel injector cleaner. If that does not clear the problem you will likely need to replace the throttle jacking unit. If that doesn’t do it, it may be the DME.
  12. I think your problem may rest with the central locking computer under the driver’s seat, which prevents the car from starting by shutting off the fuel and ignition. These cars are infamous for letting water accumulate in the area where the control unit is located, causing corrosion and shorts that lead to problems with the windows, starting, locking the car, and an entire host of other nightmares. Suggest disconnecting your battery, removing your driver seat, pulling the control unit and opening it up; if it shows any signs of corrosion or water, that needs to be fixed first. There have been an endless list of posts here and elsewhere about this issue with photos of what a damaged control unit looks like. Good luck, and this is not an inexpensive repair.
  13. OK, here’s the problem: There are more than one “terminal 30” in these cars. Lorne has pointed out the one on the cell phone cable under the center part of the dash, and there is another one on the fuel pump relay. So let’s go back and start with your faults, exactly which fault codes are you getting?
  14. Welcome to RennTech Let’s start with the obvious: What exactly are you attempting to do?
  15. You will be fine; a very little of this stuff goes a long way 😉
  16. I would start with two Oz. The only thing the dye concentration impacts is how brightly the coolant is florescent under UV light, so an exact ratio is not critical.
  17. If the coils show any signs of cracking, regardless of what they do when water is sprayed on them, I would can them and install new units. Once they start cracking, it is only a matter of time before they fail...............................😉
  18. It doesn't show as a separate item in either the PET or Porsche's online parts system, so you are going to need the help of a savvy Porsche parts person to find it for you.
  19. Then I would check the fuel lines in that area; brackets are often referred to as "retainers" in Porsche speak.....
  20. Not a problem. I would also suggest you do an online search for LN Engineering's IMS retrofit instructions (PDF file), which are short, and truly clear on the steps and procedures to assure the retrofit goes smoothly the first time. There are a lot of versions on how to do this, but LNs are decidedly the best out there: IMSR-Instruction-Warranty.pdf (lnengineering.com)
  21. It isn't as bad as it looks; in fact, several things are more accessible on the X51 than they are on the standard engine. The intake is a very tight fit in the engine bay however.....................
  22. You really did not need that tool kit, it is for resetting the cam timing or removing the cams themselves. You should have a kit that looks like this: As yours is a five-chain engine, you should be using the shorter of the two cam holding tools (just below the long bolt on the left above), and it gets inserted into the exhaust side cam on the passenger's side bank, towards the front of the car.
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