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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Yes, we use Stant pressure testers in the shop just about every day. You will need to obtain the correct adaptor for a Porsche, but the Stant system will work with anything........
  2. JFP in PA
    I would be concerned about that amount of debris in the filter, especially as the bits are ferrous. First step would be to pull the sump and have a look. While the block and heads are alloy, there are several possible sources (rods, cams, crank, oil pump, and the IMS) for ferrous metal.
  3. JFP in PA
    I have to agree with Wayne on this one, metal in the oil filter is never a sign of anything good………. Have you tried to determine if the metal is ferrous or not? If there is a good metallurgy lab or university near by, they can test the bits and tell you what type of metal it is, which would be worth knowing.
  4. JFP in PA
    First of all, it had better not be a "trickle charger"; they never shut off and slowly cook your battery. What you need is a "maintainer", which only applies current when the battery needs it, then shuts down. That will keep your battery in optimum condition without cooking it. Secondly, these cars are set up from the factory to have the maintainer plug into the cigarette lighter (it is hot all the time for this reason), so get one with an adaptor to do that............ Yes it's a maintainer but no cigarette lighter adapter So back to my original question, hook it up directly to the battery since I don't have a lighter adapter? Would be the quickest way..............
  5. JFP in PA
    1. What are the main coolant loss problem area's Coolant tank, hoses/clamps, water pump, radiators, head gaskets, cylinder heads. 2. If parked for long time can the coolant evaporate Absolutely not........... 3. What would you guys check. System pressure test; if loosing pressure, add UV dye and try to spot leak(s). If no external leaks, look for intermix, run cylinder leak down.
  6. JFP in PA
    First of all, it had better not be a "trickle charger"; they never shut off and slowly cook your battery. What you need is a "maintainer", which only applies current when the battery needs it, then shuts down. That will keep your battery in optimum condition without cooking it. Secondly, these cars are set up from the factory to have the maintainer plug into the cigarette lighter (it is hot all the time for this reason), so get one with an adaptor to do that............
  7. JFP in PA
    There's absolutely nothing you can say to make me feel stupider I actually saw a similar bolt about that size and in a similar location, referenced in something else I happened to read recently. I had my 8mm hex handy, I just got confused on a different procedure and as I said, as soon as I got horizontal I made a dumb decision -- which probably isn't the first time, nudge nudge wink wink Hey, if it makes you feel any better, you are not the first one I have seen do this. One person read somewhere that "dirty oil gets trapped in these 'blind holes' and cause IMS problems" and commenced to pull out all the tensioners and even the oil pump pressure regulator to "get rid of the bad oil". His real problems began when the put everything back and tried to start the car; his wallet suddenly got a whole lot easier to sit on just after that.... You live and you learn...............
  8. JFP in PA
    When I said "on the ground", I meant while the car is on jackstands. Everyone seems to make a big fuss over bleeding the clutch, it really is not that hard with a short metric box wrench................
  9. JFP in PA
    That's what I'm doing. Not going to risk a 50% chance of a $4k rebuild on a $500 bet (towing + service). Thought my odds would be much better, so I'm very glad you responded. Thanks again. We have seen them run, albeit poorly, one tooth off; but it matters which tooth and in which direction it is off. Cam allocation in the M96 is not for the faint of heart. In the future, might I suggest not loosening anything until you know what it is? Just a thought...........
  10. JFP in PA
    What you are not accounting for is that the cams move relative to the crank and each other once the engine starts and gets oil pressure, and then again as it starts to increase in RPM (hence VarioCam). So you could rotate it by hand, feel nothing, start it and still have a boat anchor. A static rotation test can still give you a false sense of security. That said, if you really want to try to rotate it, before I'd do the tire bit, remove the front engine cover, and use a socket to rotate the front pulley/dampener BEING SURE TO ONLY TURN THE ENGINE CLOCKWISE AS YOU LOOK AT IT FROM THE FRONT (rotation the other way, even the slightest amount, will lead to disaster)! This way, you have less leverage and would feel any contact sooner. But again, you may feel nothing but still have a potential issue. I'd suggest leaving it alone, flatbed it to the shop and let them properly check it.
  11. JFP in PA
    Look underneath a 911 variant with the same engine and check out what is in the way (the exhaust system is up alongside the engine due to space issues), your Boxster is a relative "cake walk" in comparison........ On some 911 models, you need to remove some of the exhaust just to get at the spark plugs..........
  12. JFP in PA
    Sorry I don't have a better prognostication for you, but I can only go by what I have seen. The M96 is not without its little foibles, and the cam timing is definitely one of them.
  13. JFP in PA
    Unfortunately, no, both the PIWIS and Durametric only check it while the engine is running. There is a manual method of checking/setting the cam allocation, but this requires about $600 worth of special tools and some specific knowledge to accomplish, along with several hours shop time. Even then, you could still have some damage if there was internal interference contact. The cams can be slightly out and still allow the engine to run without damage, but if they have moved too much, you have "screwed the pooch" on this one................... Out four we have seen in this condition, two were fine, two were toast (totally a matter of where the engine had stopped before the tensioners were released), so it is an "even money bet" as to where you are..........good luck!
  14. JFP in PA
    As long as the loose idler has not damaged the mounting boss, replacing both the idler and mounting bolt should fix the issue........
  15. JFP in PA
    Ummmmmm...........you are aware that the oil pump is on the front of the engine, next to the water pump, while the item he is refering to is on the back of the engine, near the bellhousing? He undid the primary chain tensioner...................
  16. JFP in PA
    I'm always amazed that people have this problem; bleeding the clutch is one of the simplest items on these cars. The total "trick" is to obtain a short (~ four inch long) double box metric wrench of the correct size (a Sears's item). You put the wrench on the fitting, connect the drain hose, and them crack open the bleeder valve. The short double box has plenty of "swing" room, and you are done in less than one min. without having to remove the wheel and tire. You can do this on the ground or a lift, no problems……………
  17. JFP in PA
    This is not good…………while your picture is a bit hard to decipher, the item in question appears to be the primary chain tensioner for cylinder bank 1-3. Hopefully, nothing jumped time while you were doing this, but I would not bet on that. Suggest having your cam timing checked with either a Durametric package or a PIWIS system to make sure they are still correctly "allocated". If they are not, you are in for some serious expenditure to fix this…………….. If the M96 has jumped cam timing, it would be a good time to consider the IMS upgrade as you will already be doing most of the same work to get the cams back where they belong. Good luck with this one…….and be careful about what you loosen in the future…..
  18. JFP in PA
    Shame they don't have a good oil on sale................
  19. JFP in PA
    Jeez guys, let's make this overly complicated…………….. We've used everything from two, three and four side electrode Beru and Bosch; to single side electrode NGK and Denso Iridium's, and they all worked fine as long as they are the correct heat range. I've had a set of Denso Iridium's (single side electrode) in my personal car for some time, runs just fine, have a couple of customer's turbos using them as well, work just fine……………. No magic here.
  20. JFP in PA
    Wayne, I don't think you would say that if you have seen some of the UoA's that I have.......................Yikes!
  21. JFP in PA
    I'd suggest contacting Eric at Bumper Plugs, he sells them for $199 every day...............
  22. JFP in PA
    Perhaps it is just me, by I find it difficult to believe that someone would get that far into the car and not replace the bearing assembly…………..
  23. JFP in PA
    Which would throw a code......................
  24. JFP in PA
    Three words: LocTite & Torque wrench.......................
  25. JFP in PA
    Don't be afraid to try Castrol Syntec's 10W-40, slightly higher base weight gives it considerably "longer legs" in high temp/high shear applications. Holds ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings as well.............
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