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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Using what system?
  2. JFP in PA
    I'm not particularly sure that you can, unless either the PST II or PIWIS has some way of causing the solenoid to function as a test. Generally, when these units go bad, they tend to totally crap out or they become obvious (poor performance, codes, etc.). I have not seen one that ran well or didn’t throw codes............
  3. JFP in PA
    You do not have a "rust or corrosion" problem, you have peeling paint; two entirely different things........................
  4. JFP in PA
    Yes, you will need to pull the cover. You are going to need to lock the cams down prior to pulling the actuator. Before reinstallion, you need to compress the valve using a special tool , or I've also seen it done with an improvised C-clamp setup. More nit-pickey than difficult, but dealer get a ton of $ to do this, I've seen quotes over $3K.....
  5. JFP in PA
    On the M96 engine, the oil cooler sits on top of the engine, making it the highest point in both the oil and cooling systems (it is an oil/water heat exchanger). As such, draining either system (just pulling out the drain plug) fairly completely drains the cooler without any other effort..................
  6. JFP in PA
    Probably caused by the flash..................
  7. JFP in PA
    At cost, there is less than $75 for parts in an oil/filter change for an M96 car (small independent, big dealers actually pay less); you do the math................
  8. JFP in PA
    I cannot remember how many of these installs gone wrong have come into the shop in the last couple of years. Noise in the stereo, MIL lights on, one or both lights that would only fire up some of the time, all kinds of electrical issues, car won’t pass inspection, etc. etc.; I have really begun to wonder why people even bother………….
  9. JFP in PA
    Loren, I believe the most current RMS seal (the PTFE unit) is actually part number 997.101.212.00; and requires a new design installation tool 9699 and insert guide 9699/2 (the earlier tools cannot be used on the poly tetra fluoro ethylene seal).
  10. JFP in PA
    I seriously doubt it is covered, particularly on a 5 year old car. Dealers have replaced tops of relatively new cars, but that has usually been "goodwill" gestures.......... Suggest re-reading your CPO paperwork.
  11. JFP in PA
    I have one on my own car, as well as many customers running the LN unit, some for two years or more. It is well designed and performs excellently in both street and track applications.
  12. JFP in PA
    Looked in the shop and found a list of all the parts that were included in a complete aftermarket Litronics kit: Part Number Qty Description 996 631 157 07 1 Left Litronic headlight 996 631 158 07 1 Right Litronic headlight 000 044 900 38 1 Headlight control unit, with mounting hardware 999 652 568 22 2 Electrical pin/receptacle, size 2 N 020 904 4 4 Tie wrap 996 612 988 00 1 Electrical wiring harness, including 4-pin plug housing (2 x) 996 552 621 01 D05 1 Dummy cover, not used for USA Materials Needed: Corrosion protection, primer coat 285-16 (refer to Paint Manual)
  13. JFP in PA
    Good point, that has detailed connection information for the wiring as well.......
  14. JFP in PA
    It can be used with out the control unit, but you will not get the maximum impact of the lights as they cannot swing up to fill in on high beams, which is very impressive once you have seen it.................... The wiring and the control unit should be available from a dealer.
  15. JFP in PA
    You can read the part number in the photo. The unit connects into the wiring harness with a wiring kit that should have come with the lights:
  16. JFP in PA
    First of all, the fuses should have been changed to 15 Amp, 25's are way too big and will cause problems if there ever is a short. In order for the lights to swing up on start up (and pivot up to fill in the high beams on the road), you need to install a control module in the headlight harness: Here is a photo of the complete aftermarket kit from Carnewal in Belgium, you can see the wiring and the small red colored box with the control unit in it:
  17. JFP in PA
    Yeah, buy a replacement switch unit for about $10 and put it in yourself in about 1 hour; problem solved.........
  18. JFP in PA
    Old enough to know better..............
  19. JFP in PA
    Single mass flywheels are problematic; lack of torsional/harmonic dampening can lead to severe issues like cracked/broken crankshafts. We have seen a couple of these, and the issue has been written up on multiple websites by some pretty well known Porsche engine builders. Going to a light weight flywheel (without dynamically balancing the engine and/or adding other dampening devices) will improve the responsiveness of the engine, but at a potential price.........
  20. JFP in PA
    While your experience with 996 is correct, perhaps you should re-read the original post: "I am hoping someone may be able to tell me how to remove my stripped torx head bolt in my transmission on my 01 Boxster S." Boxsters, depending upon year, and in some cases model, have multiple triple square (12 point) fasteners used in them, in applications such as the transmission drain plugs, alternator pulley fasteners, as well as the transmission bolt in question. While most M96 equipped manual transmission 986 cars used Torx bolts on the flywheels; a number of the very early cars also had triple square fasteners there as well. Fortunately, Porsche did not continue their flywheel usage for very long, and all replacement flywheel bolts are Torxs.
  21. JFP in PA
    Simple: Replacing the triple square bolt is false economy. It is not the only triple square fastener in the car; and, in fact, and is also not the only one of that sixe (10MM). So, after he first destroys and then replaces the bolt with an Allen head, exactly what is he going to do when he reaches the flywheel, which is not held on by hex or Allen head fasteners? Again, he is going to need the correct tool to get the old ones out and the new ones torqued in. And how about when he wants to drain the gear box before pulling it out? On some models, the drain plug is a triple square……………. These cars can have triple square fasteners in some of the strangest places, like holding the alternator pulley on for some model years. Not all of them are replaceable with either hex or Allen head fasteners, even if you could find them in the correct sizes and load bearing capacity rating. If you can't afford the $25 for the correct tool set, this is problem is going to be a reoccurring headache………….. Secondly, and perhaps it is just me, but I find "touting for applause" more than a little tacky….
  22. JFP in PA
    Dealer only item, buy a bag full of them, they only cost a couple of cents each.................We get ours out of Sunset Porsche in OR..
  23. JFP in PA
    Except for all the other triple square fasteners around the car, which will be similarly butchered using the wrong tool.....................................which I did not find "useful".........is there a "minus" to check? Jeez..........................
  24. JFP in PA
    +1 on using anti-seize. Also be aware that the plug has a small aluminum crush ring on it, which should be replaced. Only cost a couple of cents, but can be a source of leaks
  25. JFP in PA
    There is absolutely nothing wrong with the triple square fastener, provided you don't use the wrong tool on it and mangle it. We pull these out all the time, using a 10 mm XZN socket, and never have any issues. Right tool for the job makes all the difference. You can find full sets of XZN sockets on Amazon for less that $25, and as there are other "triple square" fasteners strewn through out the car as well, having the set makes a lot of sense………….
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