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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Couple of points: The 997, which first showed up in 2005, is not immune to the IMS issue. Second, from late 2005 - early 2006, the M96 switched to a larger diameter IMS, which is still subject to the problem, but is so large in diameter that it cannot be retrofitted without a total engine tear down. As for aftermarket warranty/insurance, most are not worth the paper they are written on, so be very careful before you sign on to anything...............
  2. The IMS retrofit was developed by LN Engineering out of Chicago, in conjunction with Flat Six Innovations in GA. For info, contact Charles Navarro at LN LN Engineering
  3. Because either the switch or cable would be intermittent, diagnostic scans would not see it unless it happened during the test............... On the plus side, both the switch and the cable are low bucks items if they do need replacing............
  4. Or a bad ignition switch..................
  5. +1 on Loren's comments. We have looked at just about everything available, and consistently come back to the factory fill. Porsche uses very unusual specs for their choices, making them rather unique. While smaller "blenders" like Redline, Royal Purple and Amsoil typically all claim to have matching products, experience (and testing) has shown they do not. Several of the major oil companies have actually responded to question about their products by stating that, because of Porsche's unique specs, they have nothing suitable. A couple have gone as far as to state "use what the factory recommends". Considering what these gearboxes cost, that is not bad advice……………
  6. When was the last time the gear box was serviced? And what gear oil is in it? We see this type of complaint when the gear oil is really beat, or someone has put the wrong type in the trans...........
  7. Porsche thinks enough of the Stabil products (both the original red and the newer blue) that dealers are recommending them for regular use as well as storage.........
  8. As the headlights are relatively high amperage, I'd also take a look at ground connections, including the battery............
  9. Don't know, I have not read the article...............
  10. It is adjustable; there are three of them in the set (#9599) that are used during engine assembly to simulate the hydraulic load (pretension) of the actual tensioners and chain guides while you set the cam timing (allocation) under static conditions for a new or rebuilt engine. Once the cams are allocated, you replace the tool with the real tensioners one at a time. If you did not use them, the cams would not be correct when the engine actually starts running........... By the time you have "one of everything" tooling for the M96, you are about $10K out of pocket................
  11. The $70 was for the IMS extraction tool only; and, yes, he is going to need more, a lot more; all of which is single use tooling.....................
  12. Ummmmmmmm................no offense intended, but by your questions, I'm a little concerned about you "getting in over your head" here. TDC is locked by rotating the engine clockwise (ONLY!) until the "OT" hole on the crank belt pulley is lined up with the fixing boss and inserting short pin 9595 (around 5/16th diam.) thru the pulley and into the bore. Once the pin is in, the engine is locked at TDC. My major concern is your discussion of "pulling the cams"; are you in possession of all of the required tooling for this (9634 holding device for cams, 9612 cam timing/locking device, 9611 camshaft hold-down device, etc., etc.)? If you do not, or are not familiar with the some 57 pages of instructions on cam removal and reallocation from the OEM service manual set; I would think you are going to need some professional assistance...............
  13. Unfortunately, buying a used actuator and solenoid could be a very bad idea as replacing the system is not difficult, but it is time consuming and requires more than a modicum of technical knowledge of the M96. If you installed a used actuator, and it was either bad or the wrong one (there is more than one part number), you would end up doing this swap more than once; and this is a bit more than a "shade tree DIY" project.................
  14. It is probably not sticking, just not moving ("assuming an active position"). P1524 is the code for a failing actuator; however, it is wise to change both the solenoid and the actuator while the cam cover is off...........
  15. Any competent auto machine shop can press the bearings for you if you pull the hub carriers; but you can save a lot of time if you can find an indie with the B90-P tooling, which can pull the bearings without removing the hub carriers. As far as renting the tooling, good luck, very few outlets rent tooling this specific………………..
  16. You may luck out and find someone to help you with this, but the reality of Porsche specialty tooling is that most purchasers are not going to loan or rent out these items. We get this type of request all the time, and we always respectfully decline for a variety of reasons…………
  17. P1539 is indicative of the VarioCam actuator on bank 2 not "assuming an active position", which is Porsche speak for it ain't working. The solenoid is only part of the picture, it can be moving (the click you hear), but the actuator is not moving due to other issues. Unfortunately, the only recourse is to pull the unit and replace it (actuator and solenoid). Budget in the range of $1,200-1,500 to have an indie do this...............
  18. I would think that your number one concern would be clearance; there ain't a whole lot of room in there..............
  19. Black magic.................
  20. P0300 is cylinders misfiring; 0301 is cylinder 1, 0302 is cylinder 2, and so on................
  21. By far, the quickest, easiest and most dependable method of eliminating this issue is to have someone with the correct tool pull a vacuum on the system and then top it off while under vacuum..............5 min. and you are done......
  22. Oil and air filters, go to fleetfilter.com (they carry Wix/NAPA Gold, which is a much better made filter than the OEM Mahle or Mann units); unfortunately, they do not have the cabin filter, which you can get from Autohaus AZ................
  23. Sorry guys, but it is on the bottom of the tank: Fortunately, it does not come into direct contact with the coolant, so once accessed, it is simple to change...............
  24. You will lose less than a quart, most of which will be inside the plastic filter housing when you remove it. If you are careful, just obtain a replacement filter and o-ring (in case you have cut or pinched the original one), unscrew the filter housing and lower it straight down (remember, it is full of oil), remove the old o-ring and filter, correctly put on the new filter and o-ring, and put the housing back on, re-torque it to specs. You will be back in business with little loss of oil and will only be out the cost of the filter………………..
  25. Only use the OEM type metal gasket, no sealant is needed, do not reuse the old metal gasket...................
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