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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. This is only an issue with mixing different formulations of coolant, i.e. mixing G12 with non-G12 coolant. Mixing different brands of non-phosphate G12 coolant is not an issue. Correct, but as I said, most decent Porsche techs are aware that there have been problems, so they will only use the OEM product, assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that is what is already in the car. Problem is that if you've already filled the system with something that isn't compatible, a simple top up leads to an instant headache. In my shop, unless we know the history of the car, we only add distilled water, never coolant mix.
  2. The major issue with mixing coolants is the gelation issue. The OEM coolant is very good stuff, consistently demonstrates a very long life with excellent performance. Unfortunately, it does not always get along well with other coolants, leading to gelation. When that happens, it is a major league mess to clean the entire system out if no damage has occurred; but often the gel plugs some of the smaller passages in the heads, leading to cracking, or worse. In reality, if the car is totally drained and flushed before refilling, just about any suitable coolant will do a decent job. The only problem is the next time the car is in the shop; if the coolant level is low, the tech will reach for the OEM coolant jug on the shelf to top it up because he knows coolant mixing is an issue; but what he is doing is potentially a problem, only he does not know that………….
  3. I do not believe any Boxsters had Direct Injection prior to the “S” in 2009….
  4. You can do this with a second battery, just be careful, 12V batteries carry one Hell of a lot of amperage and tend to be unforgiving .......... As for the battery, check out Mike Focke's website, he covers your options in detail. Myself, I'm an Optima fan (sealed, requires no venting), currently running four of them, one of which is approaching its 10th birthday............. Mike's website
  5. This has to be this week’s “dumbest dealer explanation for a possible IMS issue”…………..
  6. In general, most Boxsters do not experience dire problems from disconnecting the battery, most of the real issues are with 911 variants, with the obvious exception of Boxsters running the dash clusters out of 911's. That said, you can use a good quality maintainer like the Ctek that has a "supply" setting mode which will keep voltage on the system while removing the battery. If you use one, just remember that your + battery cable will remain "hot" while disconnected, so do not short it to ground..............
  7. +1 on Loren's comments. If you are not qualified to do so, doing your own PPI is somewhere between dangerous and suicidal..............
  8. Skyler, over on the old PPBB did a good step by step for the 986 (with photos), should be similar: 986 front bumper removal
  9. Actually, I'd go the other way around; your water pump may have came apart (on the track, if memory serves), and the bits blocked some of the water passages to your head and more importantly, the oil cooler area, and that is probably what started the fatal chain of events leading to your rod failure. Not that uncommon, this is why Jake is suggesting changing out the water pump every three years, even if it is working fine........... Getting all the bits out is a major pain, probably will require total disassembly unless you are very lucky.
  10. Considering that 10W-X oils were until recently recommended for use in the arctic, I have never understood the need for 0W-anything, particularly in temperate climates. First, based upon years of UoA’s, I have no faith in Mobil 1 products. It has been all downhill since Exxon took over. I would suggest looking at Castrol Syntec 10W-40, it is what we use.
  11. Because of the war the OEM harness is routed and mounted in the car (wires often combine with other non audio wiring while passing thru the body), I seriously doubt that you are going to be able to simply attach one wire to another and pull them through the car. Realistically, you are going to have to either pull sections of the interior out to trace the existing system, or run all new, by passing and leaving the OEM stuff in place. All depends upon how anal you want to be about wiring.
  12. Do a search; there is a valve in the filler neck that is obviously not opening, and this has been covered multiple times.............
  13. Because of how, and where, the chain guide paddles are located (they are what the tensioners are pushing against), this requires some significant effort and specilized tooling (cam allocation related). Not a "backyard DIY" type of project, which is why most try different oils first.................
  14. First, all "flat six" engines are prone to the occasional puff of smoke on a cold start, this is normal. If the smoke always occurs on start, or is particularly heavy, you may have another issue such as the AoS going south on you. If it is the AoS, it needs to be addressed before it totally craps out and hydraulics the engine, which is both a real possibility and always fatal......
  15. In general, if your IMS is on the way out, there should be evidence of it in the oil filter as a specific type of debris. On the M96, there are multiple chain tensioners that can go off, causing the "rattle" type of complaints; and in some cases, the tensioner issue can be resolved by switching to an oil with better film strength (e.g.: get rid of the 0W-40 Mobil 1). There are also several chain guide "paddles" (number dependant upon if the engine is a pre '03 five chain motor rather than the later three chain version) that wear and can also lead to a similar sound. If the guides are gone, replacing them is the solution; different oil is not going to help.
  16. Suggest the following: Check the voltage output of the alternator, should be well above 14V at an idle..... Fully charge and load test the battery; we have seen more than one "new" battery with problems.
  17. Does a couple of things; in US cars, you have to depress the clutch to start the car. The switch senses that and allows the car to start. The switch also releases cruise control when you depress the clutch.
  18. Anytime.........
  19. Unless power is maintained to the DME while changing out a battery, the DME will need to go through a relearning mode, which should not last too long.
  20. As I have not encountered any problems with any Ctek equipment to date (I own several of their 3300 and 7002 units) I would have to say that there is something wrong with the vehicle if you cannot charge the battery via the lighter socket as Porsche expects you to. Either you have a bad battery (which happens, even with brand new batteries), excessive current draw somewhere in the system, or your lighter circuit is faulty. Time to start testing............
  21. I, for one, can speak to the issue. We had a car come in that had recently installed a "totally rebuilt 3.2L" from them (Motormeister) that had failed shortly after being installed. First of all, it wasn't a 3.2L, it was a 2.7L; secondly, there appeared to be a lot of obviously used components in the assembly, along with some really agricultural assembly techniques. To me, that is more than enough reason to say "Run away!", they are less than a quality shop............
  22. A couple of reasons: Porsche has used multiple design rear bearings over the years, each apparently superseding the previous unit, and eventually making the older one unavailable. As the different designs (single and double row) are not particularly interchangeable, this creates a problem for the end user. Porsche, however, has created an $800 solution: They now only make the IMS bearing available with the compatible shaft assembly, assuring it will fit. But as this current shaft assembly is the latest design bearing, which is too big in diameter to fit through the opening in the rear of the block, and is not compatible with the earlier shafts, the currently available OEM solution requires splitting the cases to install it………….
  23. First, you need to understand a given limitation on the "enthusiast" version of the Durametric software, the most common version individuals own: It can only be used on three cars. So asking someone for access has a significant cost to the owner, he/she is giving up one third of the system's utility for your "six pack". I would suggest trying to find someone with the "Pro" version of Durametric, which does not have that limitation, but costs a lot more to purchase, so you may be buying them a good bottle of wine instead................
  24. Which model Ctek do you have? Reason is that some models with more features such as the 7002, tend to “test cycle” the battery more frequently, giving the impression it is not fully charging, but will eventually settle down and the green “steady state” light will come on, sometimes after several hours. I have both 7002’s and 3300’s, and the 7002’s cycle much more frequently, and when you put the 3300 on the same car, the cycling is much less frequent. As the Optima’s using both model maintainers continue to load test perfectly, I would not be concerned.
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