JFP in PA

Both the Durametric (Pro) and the PIWIS can see the cam deviation values live (engine running). You can see the cam positions (in degrees) at idle and at RPM, which is a diagnostic for checking how well (or if) the VarioCam is working.

I'd doubt that they have any experience with reading the cams and learning anything from it. Yes, we would look at both RPM rise and fall as the cams tend to get pretty erratic as the engine transitions, indicating that something that shouldn't be is moving. But, as I mentioned to another poster, this can also result from other issues as well, so further investigation is required if you encounter it. You should also be aware that by the time the engine gets to this state, it is literally "on the edge" of failure, and can go at any time. I also doubt that the dealer is going to do anything with the IMS unless there is significant metal in the oil and filter. While it may sound like heresy, the dealer's tech's are simply not trained and/or equipped to work on the internal assembly of this engine; so they just replace the entire engine when they encounter a bad IMS. From their perspective, it just makes more economic sense to pull the engine and replace it (at last count, a full set of just the special tools required to scratch assemble one of these engines was over $10,000, and these tools have no other use. Just the OEM tool to replace your RMS with the latest version is $464 alone.). As this has been dealer practice since the M96/97 was introduced, I would doubt that very few, if any, of their staff could even do it if they wanted to, and also explains why quality aftermarket engine builders are expensive. Lastly, and again sounding somewhat like a heretic, a lot of dealers are still in denial about IMS failures. After multiple magazine articles on the subject, many dealers still claim that the bearing cannot be changed on the pre '06 engines without splitting the cases, which is anything but true. While there are some dealers that are actually installing LN upgrade kits, many are not, and stick to trying to sell new engines..............

Both. Just be aware that strange or unexpected readings can be an indication of an IMS coming unglued, but they can also result from other issues as well, such as the VarioCam unit itself going south, very bad tensioners, or severely worn chain guide paddles. If I saw strange values, I would pull the oil and filter, looking for granular ferrous metal, a sure sign of looming failure. If I found nothing in the oil, I’d start looking at the other potential candidates. One of the most insidious factors with the IMS is that it very often gives no warning of any kind.

Usually, there is really nothing physical to see. When the IMS starts to go south, the fastest way to catch it is to look at the VarioCam readings on a PIWIS or Durametric system, which will see the wobble in the bearing as swings in the cam "allocation". Unfortunately, all too often, there is no prior "announcement", and the unit catastrophically fails, taking the engine with it. Major point is that you would be replacing the OEM bearing, hopefully before it even starts to fail, with the LN Engineering replacement unit which uses much better components.

Have the car scanned for codes (Durametric or PIWIS only), report back on what you find.........

First, and perhaps most importantly, let's please not turn this into a "Brand X vs. Brand Y" endless argument, and not divert the thread even further…….. Based upon UoA's collected over many years, conversations with a few the leading Porsche aftermarket engineering development firms, and a few of the leading Porsche M96/97engine builders; we came to the conclusion that sole reason for "recommending/approving" 0W-anything oils has more to do with CAFÉ mileage ratings than protecting the rotating assemblies' in these engines. Porsche is not the only ones to move in this direction, and in several cases (BMW and Toyota, for example) companies have ended up regretting it and moving back to heavier "W" weight oils when warranty engine replacements became excessively high, or the associated public relations became too negative. Oils with very thin "W" weights simply do not hold up to high shear or high temperature very well or for very long, and need to be changed more frequently rather than at the OEM recommended intervals. UoA's have shown that one of the most advertised brands of "full synthetic" 0W-40 was sheared down to the point It no longer could remotely be considered a "0W-40" product (technically known as “having fallen out of grade”) in only a couple thousand miles in something as mundane as a Cadillac. Combine that with the fact that not that long ago, 10W oils were often the recommended weights for use in very cold (near arctic) climates, the rational for using such thin oils in more temperate environs becomes even more suspect. So we began testing several different brands and weights of oils, including some very hard to obtain and/or expensive products, eventually settling on a readily available full synthetic 10W-40 product for use in these engines. Ongoing UoA's, combined with the occasional tear down, have shown that the weight combination works very well from an engine preservation standpoint. For extreme climatic conditions (truly arctic), we have also found that a 5W-40 synthetic also works very well, but requires more frequent changes as it will begin to shear down more quickly than its 10W-40 cousin. And before someone comments on the ability of 10W-40 weight oil to circulate on cold start; at 6:30AM this morning, the air temperature was 3F outside my home. My personal car, which sat outside last night with 10W-40 synthetic in it, turned right over and had nearly full oil pressure when the engine fired. You need to ask yourself, how thin does it really need to be?

There is very little rhyme or reason as to why or when the RMS is going to leak in these cars. Some seem to go on forever with the factory seal, others start to leak. How much the car is driven, or even how it is driven, does not seem to matter. The only single “factoid” we have been able to identify as correlating to RMS leaks is oil weight; those using 0W-40 oils suffer more leaks than those using 10W-40 oils. We have also noted cars with very slight RMS leaks using 0W-40 oil stopped leaking when switched to 10W-40 oil; but that does not work on cars with severely leaking RMS…………

To date, we have never seen a repaired tank that worked, they always start to leak again. And, as it is nearly impossible to repair the tank in place, while you have it out, just throw it away and put in the newer one with thicker walls, it will not only solve your issues, it just might save your sanity as well.................

First, if you had an IMS failure, you would be needing a new engine as this one would be a boat anchor. Secondly, yes, you have the “final revision” IMS bearing, which cannot be replaced without totally dismantling the engine. LN does have a replacement for it, but it still requires taking the engine apart….

Any aftermarket HID “kit” that does not include projector assemblies is going to be subject it intense glare for on-coming drivers. Some states have begun to crack down on the use of these kits, failing cars at inspection time, and a couple have begun to issue “unsafe vehicle” citations which require the car be repaired on site or towed to a shop before it can be used on the road again. In addition to the glare and legality issues, we have had several cars with these aftermarket HID’s come into the shop with all kinds of electrical problems, ranging from error codes in the onboard computer system, charging problems, to burnt wiring, and HID’s that would not ignite. As the result of the problems we have seen, when we get a car with these systems installed in them in for a PPI, we rate this item as a “deduct” from the car’s value……..

Did they tell you, "Perhaps a timing belt....."? Reason I ask is these engines do not have timing belts, the cams are chain driven................Yikes! If they said that, I would not hesitate to ask to speak with someone in authority................ I also thought all replacement engines had a 2 year warranty.................and they come from the factory very complete, so there should be very little “cannibalization” from the old one to the replacement. Something ain't right here, starting with the fact they are not telling you what really happened....

The LN IMS kit for 06 and later M97 engines require complete disassembly of the engine to install. From late 05 on, the M97 used a rear IMS bearing that is larger than the opening in the cases, so it cannot be removed with the engine assembled.............

Threads like this make me happy I don’t have any kids; at least any that I know of……

Secondary air injection system..............

Distilled water is the purest, DI water still has some containments in it, purified, has even more. For a buck a gallon, go with the distilled, it will also give you the best cooling system life...........

True, but not the point; they are saying they cannot read the DME because of an aftermarket stereo system..............................which is totally ridiculous.

I'd still like to know exactly what the Hell your aftermarket stereo has to do with their inability to read the DME...................

What the dealer's techs should do, and what the actually do, are often quite different. Use distilled water, costs about a buck a gallon at the supermarket.

For many years, all US spec Porsche's came with the Euro lighter in them from the factory. This caused no end of issues with battery maintainers, radar detectors, cell phones and anything else plugged into the cigarette lighter, because the US charging cord ends (what I believe you are calling the connector) were way too loose and even fell out of the dash socket. As all the cars (I'd have to check on the trucks) used the same lighter assembly, Porsche made available a US "sized" replacement socket that goes into the dash, and a suitable sized lighter to fit it. With the new socket in the dash, the US sized cord end connectors now fit correctly, ending the issue. As the parts are OEM, the dash looks exactly the same after the conversion. Costs about $20 US.

The advantage of using distilled water rather than tap is in the fact that distilled water is free of any impurities or minerals, which starts the cooling system out on the best possible footing. Using tap water typically shortens the coolant's "life expectancy" as the contaminants break down or react with the coolant's corrosion preventative additives, reducing their effectiveness. As for the "wizz-bang" vacuum device, RennTech's Amazon "store" sells them for about $100, and they work on any liquid cooled engine, making it a worthwhile addition to the tool box...........

A. my car is US spec B. PET shows only one type of socket for all markets C. size of plug and socket was not an issue but fuses and connectors were A. The US cars came with Euro spec lighters in them until fairly recently. B. We use Porsche parts 997-652-101-00-A05 (lighter) and 996-652-102-10 (socket) for 986/987/996/997's that demonstrate this problem. C. The fuse blows because the plug is moving around in the socket, sometimes shorting.

Loren, didn't the transition to non removable tubes happen in 04-05?

Simple problem with an easy fix: The Ctek has a US spec lighter plug on it, your car has a European spec lighter socket, they are two different sizes (your socket is slightly larger than the Ctek plug). Either swap out the Ctek plug or your lighter socket for the matching sized unit (we do this all the time for early Porsches up to about 2003, which have the same problems. After 03 they came with US spec sockets in them). We buy the US spec lighter socket from Porsche and pop out the old one, takes about 5 min. and cost about $20 US........

For some reason, a couple of states have done so. So then you order it online, and they ship it in; so much for legislative actions...................

I would not use a light weight solid flywheel on any M96 that has not been fully internally harmonically balanced; the dual mass OEM unit is the sole source of torsional and harmonic dampening in the drive line...............