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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Not sure the later airbag is compatible with the earlier system.
  2. JFP in PA
    I have to agree with Loren on this; and because it gets into a questionable definition of "better". In general, just about any new plug is going to be "better" than one with a lot of miles on it, simply because it is new (after all, these are consumable items) . I believe if you dyno tested several brands of new plugs of the same heat range; any differences would be more experimental error rather than actual gains. The more appropriate question is which plug is doing "better" after a ton of miles, and this is where the incredible toughness of Iridium comes in. After 30-40 thousand miles, the Iridium plugs still look like new with no real change in the electrode gaps or condition, while the OEM plugs tend to show more electrode wear. On a Boxster or Cayman, plug changes are relatively straight forward affairs as nothing is in the way; on a 996/997/Turbo they tend to be a bit more difficult due to exhaust system packaging and the like. Longer lived, or longer performing plugs have an obvious advantage is these installations. To me, that is where the "better" term actually resides………..
  3. JFP in PA
    Fortunately, the tensioner is pretty sturdy and does not crap out very often; usually, if it has to be accessed, it is because someone screwed up the tensioner pulley mounting bolt, requiring the replacement of the arm. Then the fun begins…….. I also would not go the recommended distance on the serpentine belt; it is a relatively inexpensive item, but can leave you stranded on the side of the road, if not the new owner of a boat anchor where your engine used to sit. I would also recommend keeping the old belt in the car as an emergency spare due to the fact that many shops do not carry belts in the same size.
  4. JFP in PA
    If you need to replace the tensioner itself (#2 in the PDF), you are in for a fun project as everything short of the kitchen sink is in the way....................
  5. JFP in PA
    I would say "yes", although I'm sure others would disagree. Iridium is the hardest material with high current conductance properties available in spark plug at this time, so it should last the longest. We have used both NGK and Denso's in both normally aspirated and turbo cars, and while both worked well, I think the Denso's are a bit better.
  6. JFP in PA
    Gotta ask: Are you sure your DME and the engine are compatible? The later engines use a somewhat different VarioCam system and the DME's for one are not directly compatible with the other.................you note is was "reprogrammed", but are you sure it is correct?
  7. JFP in PA
    Check the coil pack connectors and possibly the coil pack themselves on Cylnders 4-5-6. Because you have spun this engine over with the cam that far out, I would also first run a leak down test on all cylinders, you may have some bent valves............ And never start one of these without oil in it.
  8. JFP in PA
    I've read that the unit is actually VW/Audi (and marked with a VW part #), so I'd also check with a friendly VW parts guy as well.......
  9. JFP in PA
    I do not believe it is related to the Techron; we have used Techron in a lot of cars for a lot of years and never had any negative issues.
  10. JFP in PA
    Depends upon what the problem is; the IMS can be changed with the engine in the car, as can a valve spring, although changing springs can be a bit time consuming.
  11. JFP in PA
    Obviously, it is hard to diagnose these issues “long distance”, but if you are indicating that the metal “flakes” can be picked up by a magnet, you have a serious issue that is not going to get better on its own. Without seeing the metal close up, I would have to say that it is probably from one of a couple of potential sources: (1) The IMS bearing. When these unit crap out, they tend to shed a lot of ferrous metal, usually as a granular material, but sometimes as flakes. If it is, you need to stop running the engine immediately as failure of the bearing will total your engine. (2) Something in the valve train such as a failing spring (not uncommon) or something in the VarioCam system. The non metal bits can be the cam tensioning “paddle” wear covers coming apart, but they can also be the IMS bearing seals breaking up as the bearing starts to wobble. You need to get the car to someone that knows these engines well, and I would suggest not driving it there.
  12. JFP in PA
    Put a magnet near them, if it picks them up, you may have a potential issue...........
  13. JFP in PA
    Very simple: The dual mass flywheel is the only torsional and harmonic dampening device on these engines; its removal can (and has) led to failures in the rotating assembly, notably crankshaft cracking and complete failures. Several of the premier Porsche engine builders will only use lightweight single mass flywheels if the entire rotating assembly (including the flywheel itself, as several have been found to be out of balance to start with) is being subjected to a full harmonic balancing prior to engine assembly. Some people will say that "they have used one with no problems"; but repeated failures indicate that they may have just been lucky. Unless you are going to balance the assembly, I'd skip the single mass lightweight unit………….
  14. JFP in PA
    You rarely can go wrong with Snap-On stuff.............often a bit pricey, but very well made. Some of mine are over 40 years old and used every day; and they still look new.
  15. JFP in PA
    Unless you like clutch chatter everytime you let the pedal up, and the potential for engine damage, I’d stay away from the aluminum one piece flywheels and stick with a dual mass. Anytime you have the clutch out is an excellent time to upgrade to the latest RMS and do the LN IMS update as well. The latest RMS appears to have ended the earlier problems, and as it costs less than $20, replacing it is a no brainer. While the LN IMS cost a bit more, it is still one of the single most important updates you can do, both from a peace of mind and resale perspective.
  16. JFP in PA
    There is a four or five wire connector for the factory phone adjacent to the passenger's footwell. Pull of the kick panel and you will see it, it contains a switched hot wire and a ground..........
  17. JFP in PA
    Looks like the connector for the factory phone................
  18. JFP in PA
    The triple square on the gearbox is a 10MM. Take a look at Snap-On’s "stubby" set, about $50 and the largest (18 MM) is less than an inch in length:
  19. JFP in PA
    I think this is what you are referring to: Plus you need the correct adaptor: It is by OTC (#3226) and sells for about $500 (plus the adaptor). The OEM Porsche unit is about $1000 and has to be built to order, so the waiting time is long.
  20. JFP in PA
    A easier, and neater, approach would be to use the bleeders on the calipers to vent off the fluid while changing out the pads. As you should be flushing the system on a regular basis anyway, doing it after swapping out pads would put your system in an optimum performance condition..................
  21. JFP in PA
    That picture explains why I could not successfully use my oil extractor to change my oil. Can you change the oil filter without first draining the oil from the pan? I too plan to send my oil to Blackstone, but would be nice not to have to do a complete oil change. Changing the filter does not drain any oil from the sump; the oil filter can simply be removed and replaced, along with the o-ring on the canister. Be sure to top up your oil to make up for what was in the filter. You should also note that the photos looking up into the sump area are after the lower baffle "box" assembly has been removed, so there is even more stuff in the way then what you are seeing here.
  22. JFP in PA
    Autohause AZ sells the activated carbon filter (Mann) for $16.53.......................
  23. JFP in PA
    First of all, for anyone out there thinking about getting an oil sample this way, don't do it. If you want an oil sample, change your filter and you will have about 1/2 quart of used oil to play with that is in the filter housing. The reason the dip sticks on these cars look like they do is that they have to twist around a lot of stuff before it gets into the oil sump. Pushing anything thicker down its pathway is tempting fate, as you discovered. As for where the rest of the tubing may end up, it would probably end up on the bottom of the oil pickup in the sump, or in the sump itself. The oil pick up has a mesh covering to prevent picking up anything solid along with the oil because the next stop would be the oil pump itself, which is a gear style unit, and therefore does not like inhaling anything but oil. Most likely, that is where the bits are. Will they casue issues long term? Maybe, maybe not. It all depends upon them getting past the mesh on the pick up and into the pump itself. You can probably get most, if not all, of the tubing bits out by pulling the sump cover and baffle system so you can see the pickup.
  24. JFP in PA
    Sorry to hear it didn't work out. Sticking Bendix drives are a common phenomenon on these cars, but if the solenoid has gone south, no amount of lubrication will fix it. Unfortunately, outside of a starter rebuilding shop, parts for these starters are difficult to come by, making replacement the common option.
  25. JFP in PA
    Bulb may be burned out........... or someone may have removed it to hide the fact it is lit.......
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