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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Your problem is the dead battery. With a battery that is really discharged, some of the normal items powered by it when the car is off (alarm system, immobilizer, etc.) tend to react to there suddenly being a source of power; that is the sounds you are hearing. Pull the battery and fully charge it, let it cool and then have it load tested; chances are better than even money it won't pass muster. If that is the case, put in a replacement (or just do that without testing if the original battery is more than a couple years old) and the car should recover fine, although you will still have the usual battery replacement woes (no radio presets, alarm will promptly go off, etc.).
  2. JFP in PA
    His profile does not list the year of his 911. Unfortunately, if he does have an 06 or later car, he still faces the risk of engine failure due to the IMS (yes, even though the engine would have Porsche’s “final solution” for the IMS problem, this last version still do fail), but unfortunately he cannot easily upgrade it because it would be the large diameter IMS which cannot be replaced without total disassembly of the engine. LN Engineering does have an upgrade for this version of the M96/97 IMS, but for obvious reasons there are not that many being upgraded…………..
  3. JFP in PA
    Liverpool my friend :thumbup: We may have been neighbors at one time, I lived near Runcorn (across the A533 bridge below Widnes), as well as down in Dorset and in the Isle of Man. Small world...................
  4. JFP in PA
    You will never have a better time to access your AoS than when the gearbox is out...........
  5. JFP in PA
    Where abouts in the UK?
  6. JFP in PA
    Good time to update the RMS and IMS; due to how difficult they can be to get at, I'd also do the AoS while the car is apart.
  7. JFP in PA
    +1 on Loren and McMike27's comments; I would only add that you should use an inch pound torque wrench on the sump cover bolts, much more accurate at low torque levels..............
  8. JFP in PA
    Most likely, you are in for a "bone yard search" if the connector you broke is on the wiring up from the removable brake pigtail; only the very early cars had a disconnect point in the trunk area, yours probably does not. This is not a big project, but finding the connector will definitely be an "Easter Egg Hunt"........
  9. JFP in PA
    Yes, #4 & 5 are cam holding tools.
  10. JFP in PA
    I don’t mean to sound patronizing, but if you do not know how to use these tools, perhaps it would be better to either let someone that does handle it, or at least be there to guide you through the process……………..
  11. JFP in PA
    As you just purchase the car, and you live in CA, it is the seller’s responsibility in to certify the car’s smog. Perhaps time to go back on them?
  12. JFP in PA
    More and more, the OEM’s are making fewer driveline parts available for their cars. This is happening for multiple reasons: First, fewer dealer tech’s are qualified or equipped to disassemble driveline components. Second, rebuilding components on a flat rate basis sucks from the perspective of the dealer’s cash flow; too many rebuilds become money losers for the dealer. Third, simply too many come backs; both due to the lack of knowledge/equipment, and because something else craps out as soon as the first problem is fixed. So the standard “modus operandi” had become “pull it and put in a new/rebuilt unit” which address all the above. Doesn’t matter if it is the CVT in a Nissan Sentra or the PDK in a new Turbo……………..
  13. JFP in PA
    I try cleaning up the bleeder valve and putting on a new cap, if the crud returns, you can easily rebuilt the unit, or just replace it; one word of caution: Be careful with the screws on the bleeder, they snap off if you look at them the wrong way.........
  14. JFP in PA
    If you are refering the the small shaft under the bail moving up while the car is hot; yes, it is supposed to do that. More likely is that the cap is bad; what are the last two digits on your cap?
  15. JFP in PA
    We have a couple of the older cars running them, no problems to date.
  16. JFP in PA
    The unit with the external spring is the newer design that is supposed to keep the tensioner paddle from "flapping" until oil pressure has built up. They seem to work well.
  17. JFP in PA
    Take it to the dealer so the problem is at least on record. Ask them to check the cam deviation values at idle; if they are steady, you are in good shape; if they swing back and forth, you/they need to worry. Try running a heavier weight oil; I prefer 10W-40, many like 5W-40. Pull the oil filter and cut it open; if it is clean, you are in good shape; if it holds metal flakes, specs of flat black plastic, or granular metal the can be picked up by a magnet, you/they need to worry.
  18. JFP in PA
    Glad to hear you got it sorted.
  19. JFP in PA
    As the washer protects the alloy crank carrier from wear, I don't think ignoring it is a long term option..............
  20. JFP in PA
    It is a thrust washer, #24 in the diagram and it will require considerable disassembly to access:
  21. JFP in PA
    Not necessarily, but to know for sure, you must have the codes. Do you know anyone with a Durametric System? Otherwise you need someone with either a PSTII or PIWIS unit…………..
  22. JFP in PA
    What you are seeing it the cam's deviation from its ideal position (this is normal, caused by mechanical tolerances, slop in the chains, VarioCam, etc.). Usually at this point, the owner/operator instantly panics and starts call everyone because they think the values they see ( something like your -1 and -0.5 ) means their engine has jumped time, when it is completely normal deviation from ideal values. The cam movement with increasing and decreasing RPM is the action of the engine’s VarioCam, again completely normal. As long as the cam deviation values remain steady at an idle, everything is fine; if they start jumping back and forth, that is another issue entirely. There was a posting in the archives of a Porsche article that explains in detail both VarioCam and VarioCam Plus systems and how they work. Might make good introductory reading…………
  23. JFP in PA
    I could be wrong, but I think it is only in the "Pro" version. You also need to keep in mind that Durametric, unlike a lot of other systems, is a "work in progress", but does provide updates.
  24. JFP in PA
    +1 on Loren’s comment. Clearing a code, particularly an unknown code (not read) is asking for grief. Take 5 min., get it read, and you will know what is going on…….
  25. JFP in PA
    It was "obvious" to me because I was looking at their "Pro Line" system which bundles a lot but costs more as well; so yes, you can get it at the price you outlined. That said, the last time we evaluated the Pro Line for the shop, the Durametric Pro system still had several advantages as their system could not test activate several systems, including the VarioCam solenoids (a common test), the fuel pumps, the ABS/PSM pump, plus several others. It also seemed to have difficulty with clearing some of Porsche's "restricted" code areas. I don't know if they ever corrected that, but the Durametric Pro system handles all of them, and regularly adds more. I know some find the Durametric confusing, but when you use it everyday, more and more becomes obvious. We would have added a PIWIS unit and gotten just about everything, but Porsche has priced that outside the realm of reality........
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