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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Then your AOS is fine. We checked every car that passes thru the shop for this vacuum level, just as a precautionary measure as the cars tend to show higher vacuum levels for a bit before they become problematic and need to be changed.
  2. When contemplating a later model Porsche engine replacement on one of these cars, you need to take a lot of things into consideration, such as: The fuel systems changed year to year, some changes were minor, others not so much. Later engines are nearly totally CAN Bus technology, the early cars had none; over the years, there have been multiple DME changes, some were significant, and trying to use the later engines can turn into and electronic and reprograming nightmare. I could go on, but I think you get the picture. You need to understand just how much will need to be changed to make a possible swap work before you leap into a financial black hole......
  3. First, drive the car for a few min. to make sure it is fully warmed up, then follow this video: How to check cam timing with the Durametric software
  4. Realistically, LN ceramic hybrid IMS retrofits should be good out to around 75K miles. Again, checking cam deviation values and the oil filter for metal grit being present would also confirm the IMS status.
  5. Interesting thinking, but as he has the Durametric software, he could just ask it to check the cam deviation values; if they are +/- 6 degrees, he is good to go on cam timing 😉
  6. As several of these DTC codes point to the central locking system (46, 47, 34) I would say that it points to the central locking/alarm/immobilizer control box under the seat, not the car's central computer (which is called a DME). Several codes also note locking positions not being reached (61), which ties into the car beeping. So, you may have a combination of one of the doors not reaching locked position. and/or a bad central locking control unit.
  7. Oil in any tail pipe is never a good sign of things to come..............
  8. Even thinking about buying one of these vehicles without an totally independent pre purchase inspection by a shop with both considerable Porsche experience and Porsche specific diagnostic tools would be a total crap shoot. A quality PPI is your last chance to avoid a financial black hole............. You would be utterly amazed at what we have found while doing PPI's for customers; the stories would keep you awake at night 😮
  9. The "third design" IMS bearing began showing up in 2005 and is larger than the earlier versions. That said, they also fail, just in not as large numbers as the earlier versions. LN does make a retrofit kit to permit the retrofits of either their ceramic hybrid bearing or the once an done IMS Solution; only problem is that to do anything with the third design bearing requires pulling the engine apart as this bearing is literally too big to fit through the opening in the rear of the engine cases. Once the LN kit is installed, however, any future work can be done without a complete engine tear down. Probably the best and simplest update you can do to an engine with the large bearing it to remove the rear seal on the bearing so it can lubricate and cool with the oil mist circulating in the engine. We have done this on multiple large bearing engines, with complete success.
  10. Unfortunately, these are two separate cooling loops, the temperature of one is no indication of what the other is doing. And I would not suggest driving it any distances.
  11. Sorry, but that is meaningless, the hoses that need to be checked are under the car, alongside the transmission, and barely visible with the car on a lift. You can see the cooler, control valve, and lines in this photo:
  12. Whomever you choose to work on this car needs to start by testing the coolant sensor and change over valve electrical circuits for shorts and open circuits to eliminate the sensor and valve wiring from the equation; if the sensor and the electrical circuits are good, the valve itself is bad, which can be confirmed by measuring the valve's inlet and out let coolant temps with a non-contact pyrometer; if it is not opening when it should, it is jammed.
  13. I'm intrigued by the replacement of the coolant pipes; did your indie do this using a vacuum refilling system per the factory/dealer methods, or did they just refill and "burp" the system? Reason I ask is if it was done just before this issue cropped up, you could have a trapped air pocket in the Tip's cooling loop, which could be an easier and cheaper fix.
  14. Not an uncommon problem as diagnostic data is hard to come by as Porsche no longer publishes it, these valves are a bear to get at, and difficult to diagnose where the fault lies (e.g.: Is it an electrical problem such as a wiring short, or a mechanical fault in the valve itself) because a lot of scan tools cannot even see the Tip computer, much less see why it is upset. And if it is the valve itself, it isn't cheap and can be problematic to swap out because of where it is on the side of the trans. Larger issue is that if the valve is malfunctioning, it can overheat and kill the Tip, which will definitely make your wallet a whole lot easier to sit on.............
  15. Most probable issue is the Tips coolant change over valve has an issue or is not functioning properly.
  16. Welcome to RennTech Which of the two codes discussed do you have?
  17. No problem, everyone misses something now and again 😉
  18. That relay panel looks exactly like the one further down in Mike's diagram set........
  19. I never used anything other than the Bosch on customer cars, so I cannot comment on the Delco units.
  20. That’s a call only you can make; in my world, voltage regulators are a lot cheaper than a new alternator.
  21. Around 2004, Porsche stopped publishing service manuals in a printed form, switching to an online subscription system called TSI. The same service information is also included with a PIWIS lease, starting at $20K for the first year. Yes, you read that correctly!
  22. You should be seeing around 14.5 V with the engine running. Either the voltage regulator or the alternator itself is bad,
  23. They operate on 12V, if they are pulse width modulated versions, the controller is in the fan motor itself; if they are not PWM, look for burnt out resistors mounted on the fan shroud.
  24. Welcome to RennTech You only have to take off three of the bolts. There is the rubber disc, referred to as a Guibo, three bolts hold the drive shaft to the Guibo and three bolt hold the Guibo to the flange on the rear of the transmission. Once all three bolts are out use a large screwdriver or prybar to pry the flange off the Guibo, it will stick a bit, so you will need to use some force.
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