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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Loren is correct, it is part of the oil level sensor unit.
  2. Jake is correct. Some cars built in 2005 have the "final solution" IMS that cannot be changed without splitting the cases (total disassembly of the engine). Neither build dates nor serial numbers have proven to be accurate. The only way to know for sure which IMS is in a 2005 car is to pull the flywheel and look at it. As unpalatable as this is, it is an unfortunate fact of life. All 2006 on are definitely non serviceable, as are earlier model cars that had an engine change after around mid to late 2005.
  3. It is a VW/Audi diagnostic system.
  4. I have never seen a cooler leak to the outside, but internal intermixing is not uncommon; usually if it has oil on the outside of it, the oil came from somewhere else. You can always pull the cooler and pressure test it (be sure to use new orings) to make sure it is OK. As they only cost about $200 or so brand new, they are not worth trying to repair.
  5. Probably a couple dozen or so over the years. It is a fairly well known issue.
  6. Oil and coolant does not mix, it forms an emulsion, like hot chocolate or salad dressing in consistency.
  7. Not good. First, stop running the car. Question now should be where is the source? Could be the oil cooler, which is an easy fix; but if it isn't, it goes exponentially downhill from there...........
  8. +1 on the clutch interlock switch as the issue. And just as a by-the-way, Porsche did not make an S Boxster until 2000..................
  9. Problem is that there are many reasons why you could get the combination of lights on, without the codes, you would be going on a guess…………
  10. Run a leak down test on the bad cylinder to see if there are any mechancial issues (bad valve, head gasket, etc.)................
  11. Without scanning the car and looking at the codes, any suggestions would be a guess. Get the codes.
  12. If the plug in #5 is not bad, it is probably either the coil pack or the coil pack connector. Try moving the suspect coil to another cylinder, if the code moves with it, you need a new coil.
  13. Unless I'm mistaken, you cannot sell or trade in a car with an emissions issue in CA unless the vehicle is going to be scrapped, so fixing it may not be an option.............
  14. What you want is a tool that looks like this: These tools can separate the ends without damage, unlike the old "pickle fork" and hammer approach............ You can find this at just about any auto parts outlet, or Harbor Freight.
  15. If you do not hear a "fan-like" sound ion cold start (which is actually the SAI pump kicking in), that is probably the root of your "not ready" issue. What you might want to do is listen to another car on cold start that is acting normally. The SAI blows air into the exhaust during cold start to offset the slightly rich start up mixture conditions and keep the car within emissions specs. If yours is not making the fan-like sound, yours is not working properly. Common failure points in the SAI is the electric change over valve and general crud build up in the system.
  16. Try triggering the SAI system and see what the Durametric says..................
  17. Probably not. What specific codes are you getting, and what is the year and model of your car?
  18. That's what I was thinking...................
  19. Loren, aren't the wiring harness connection for the DME's different on some 986's and 987's?
  20. While I have no idea what acutally went on with this thread, I have to agree with Loren: Air bag MIL's do not reset themselves, and only a PST II, PIWIS, or a Durametric system can reset and clear them.
  21. Cars with the LN 160 stat reset after a couple of drive cycles without issue................
  22. Somewhere between one and one million miles. Seriously, there is literally no rhyme or reason to when or how these things fail. The early ones were more prone to crapping out than the later ones, due mainly to a redesign by Porsche. We recommend that customers replace them at opportune times when the process is quick and simple, like when the gear box is out to do a clutch.
  23. When your AOS fails, you do not need a warning light, just look in the rearview mirror: if it looks like you are spraying for insects behind you, your AOS is gone............. Excellence magazine recently had an article about the AOS and showed how to test it with a manometer; which while all well and good, most knowledgeable techs just try to remove the oil filler cap while it is running
  24. There should be a low vacuum under the oil fill cap; these are low tension ring motors and require a slight vacuum in the cases to help control oil and blow by gasses. If the vacuum becomes very high (hard to nearly impossible to remove the oil cap while idling), it is a sign of a failing AOS.
  25. You will probably be fine; as I mentioned, this is a common issue.
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