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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The fans are controlled by an algorithm in the DME and work in unison. The fans have two speeds, one for just cooling, and another faster speed for cooling/air conditioning. Regardless of which speed they are running at, both fans should be turning at the same speed. The DME triggers them for cooling by monitoring the coolant temps, the AC speed is triggered by the AC system engaging the compressor.
  2. Temps should not really effect the output, and the voltage loss between the altenator and battery could be a bad cable.
  3. It should still be over 14V..............
  4. A PIWIS is the Porsche diagnostic computer system, mandatory for many types of work on these cars. When the fuel level sensor is replaced, they are supposed to run the level calibration diagnostic, otherwise the fuel gauge will not read correctly. Even a prolonged disconnect of the battery can require this calibration. I would suggest you get the car checked out by someone with the correct equipement.
  5. With an actual load tester, you can see the diodes "ripple" under load, confirming everything is correct. With a problematic alternator, usually the alternator starts dropping diodes pretty quickly (within seconds) under load.
  6. When your fuel gauge was replaced, did they perform the fuel system level calibration with a PIWIS? This requires totally draining the tank, installing and checking the new gauge, and then putting measured amounts of fuel in the tank to test and set its calibration......................... If they did not, there may be nothing wrong with the gauge itself.
  7. Along with voltage testing, we also like to test the alternator's response under load conditions. While we use a load tester for this, you can do the same thing by turning on the high beams and other electrical loads while monitoring the alternator's voltage response.
  8. One point often overlooked on header pipe and collector sizes is the fact that you can go too big, which tends to move the torque curve up in the RPM curve, reducing the car's drivability. When the tubes get too big, the velocity of the exhaust gases actually begin to slow down, reducing the lower RPM cylinder scavenging effect, causing the perceived loss of low end response. Don't go nuts, as "size really does matter", and there is a "too big"................
  9. +1 on Loren’s comment. We have also seen similar random electrical problems with ignition switches on the way out, which is a very cheap DIY fix.
  10. Loren and kbrandsma are spot on; we pressure test caps and entire systems just about everyday, you pay by the amount of diagnostic time required. The cap costs less than the time it takes to properly test it.....
  11. More likely a burnt resistor on the right fan, easily replaceable.
  12. Think of the torque converter as being like a squat bottle lying on it side, with the neck of the bottle protruding into the transmission. The fluid level below the neck, nearly ½ the total volume of the rather large diameter converter, is not going to drain by gravity while the trans is in the car. This is why you have to pump oil into the converter, or pull the trans out and turn the converter upside down to fully drain it. Either way, the water contaminated fluid has to come out………
  13. The oil supply and return may be a possibility, but I am not sure how you would connect to them and hold significant pressure during the fluid exchange, or if they would allow you to fully flush everything, including the converter which is where the major portion of the fluid resides........
  14. Yes, with the Tip the dif oil and trans oil are kept separate (the dif uses a Hypoid gear oil).
  15. Those large lines are the lines carrying coolant to and from the heat exchanger, which you can see in the right picture; there do not appear to be any external trans fluid lines on the Tip that you can easily connect to.
  16. Have you looked at your ignition switch? Well known issue with these cars that causes non starts, plus electrical stuff that stops working or only works intermittently. Second, has your shop checked your crank position sensor? Often a suspect in hard starting issues.............
  17. Update I was sufficiently perplexed by your comments concerning having external lines, that I got out the OEM service manuals for the Tip, and after reviewing them, asked a customer with a 2001 Boxster with a Tip to bring it by the shop so I could look at it (I can honestly say that we do not see that many Tips, but this has shown that I need to pay more attention to how they are set up). Here's were I now am on this topic….. The only external lines you should have on the Tip are coolant lines that run engine coolant to the trans case below where the cooler mounts, and then return it to the engine from the other side. The coolant then enters the cooler from the bottom, as does the trans fluid (it is a closed, self contained heat exchanger unit,much like the engine oil cooler, but with out the air bleed line that goes from the top of the engine oil cooler to the coolant surge tank). All of the transmission fluid remains inside the cooler or the gearbox, there are no external fluid lines or connections: So, at this juncture, I have to return to my original opinion in that I cannot see a way to easily connect an external transmission fluid exchange unit and pump fresh fluid through the system to remove the water contaminated fluid. This is not going to be easy……
  18. If there are lines, you have a possible way to do this. I'd suggest doing some searching on how other OEM's that use the Tiptronic (VW, Audi, Mercedes, etc.) flush and purge these transmissions in their cars as which line the new fluid goes in, and at what pressure, is important. An OEM dealership that works on these transmissions may be able to do this for you as the hardware for fluid exchange systems is often in the $3-$5K range, and the adaptors to attach the exchange units are specific to each transmission.
  19. This is not going to be easy. About half the contaminated fluid is in your torque converter, which does not fully drain by pulling the pan. Ideally, you would want to use one of those pressurized flush through systems that may service centers use because clean fluid pushes out the contaminated. Unfortunately, I am not aware of any flush system that would work on your Tip because the aftermarket units connect via the ATF lines to the cooler, which your Tip does not have. You may want to talk to someone that rebuilds Porsche Tips such as Vertex.......otherwise it may have to come out.
  20. Loren, that is correct for manual gear boxes, but not for a Tip. On a Tip, the differential is separate and holds a little less than a quart of 75W-90 Hypoid gear oil. There is a "how to" for doing it in the Bentley manual for the Boxster (and I should comment that it is messy as you need to undo the side cover, remove the drive axel and flange, because there is no drain plug on the unit).
  21. Alternator voltage sound OK. Just a by-the-by, voltage is not how you check the battery, the best method is a load test (current output over time), which requires the use of a device designed for the purpose.
  22. Along with load testing the new battery (would not be the first dud new battery I have seen), I would also check your alternator output (should be slightly over 14V and idle).
  23. Accoding to the people that make it (Ross-Tech), " Although Porsche SE and Volkswagen AG have taken steps to merge, Porsche still does diagnostics quite differently than VW so VCDS does not do OEM diagnostics on most Porsche systems. However, we've heard good things about Durametric's Diagnostic Tool for Porsche. " The Durametric system will also give you access to most of the “proprietary code areas” in the DME that other OBD II systems cannot even see, much less deal with.
  24. You can "Google" torque converter or PDK to get a full explanation of how each works, it would take forever to explain it in a post. .As for which is the "best", that is a more loaded question. The PDK is the current state of the art sequential manual gear box controlled by a computer and using two "wet" clutches (one for the even numbered gears, the other for the odd and reverse). As it uses mechanical gears and clutches, there is less parasitic losses and way faster and firmer shifting. It is the same transmission technology used in current Formula 1 cars. The Tip is a recent design update to the automatic transmissions found in just about everything since the 1950's, and has considerable horsepower loss due to how it operates. Both the Tip and the PDK can be set to shift on their own (automatically), but as the PDK is newer tech, it can also be set via the computer for maximum launch, etc. On the dark side, the Tip is well known, used by Mercedes, Audi and VW; so service and the like is out there. The PDK being new, is currently dealer only service, and even then the dealer's tend to try software updates before replacing the trans when problems set in because Porsche has limited parts availability and the design of the gear box requires significant special tooling and fixtures to work on them. Not really an issue while the car is under warranty, but are you ready to spring for a $15K+ gear box once the warranty runs out.............
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