JFP in PA

If you find the three VIN’s limiting, look at Durametric’s Pro version; it has no limits. For general purposes, we use Actron’s OBDII units, which can read and clear most codes on just about any brand, even on Porsche’s, with the exception of what PCNA call “protected code areas” such as the PSM/PASM, ABS, Airbags, and even the service alert. For those, you either need a Durametric system (we use the Pro version), or a PIWIS. We looked into acquiring a PIWIS, but when we found out that the first years lease was in the $17K range, we opted to add another bay and lift to the shop instead. The AutoEnginuity rep keeps trying to get us to take one of their units, but both the economics and its lack luster performance compared to the Durametric keep ending the conversation.

As could the reflash; I'd take that back to stock as well to see what happens....................

Several possibles: Level sensor leak, pressure sensor leak, oil cooler leak, etc. Best bet is to clean off the engine, then look for where it starts.......

If it came off easily, you are fine.

We have never seen this type of repair last either. You also need to consider where the tank is cracked; sometimes it is necessary to remove the tank to see or attempt to repair the crack, making a temporary repair a little ridiculous..........

Do an online search yourself, you can get a new one here, online, for about $60-70:

+1 That is the center hub of the clutch type pulley, which can and do fail as you described. You will need the special tool, a new pulley, and belt, and you will be back in business....

I'm not sure about there being a common junction for the wiring, as the signal and heater wiring serve different purposes I would expect not; but there are diagnostics to check for the sensor signal and heater voltage using a multimeter. I'd be running them before spending more money on sensors....

I seriously doubt that replacing the O2 sensors will fix this; two of the codes (0154 and 1119) are telling you that there may be a wiring or connector issue in the O2 circuits: P0154 is the code for the interruption of the signal from the senor ahead of the 3 way cat on bank 4-6. P1119 is the code for a non functioning sensor heater.

Should be row D, fuse #5.

All Porsche's have had lighters that are "hot" at all times for many years specifically to accommodate using a battery maintainer connected there. If yours is not hot, check the fuse.

1. The Ctek 3300 does get warm when it is charging, but cools when it gets to full charge. All Ctek units have built in overheat protection that will reduce output or shut the unit off. 2. The fact that the mode control button does not move the setting to the car icon is a problem. Do either of the 1/2 battery or full battery indicator led's come on? You are supposed to connect the unit to the car first (cigarette lighter or alligator clips) then plug the unit in and try to set it to the car mode. If you cannot, it may be an indication that either you have a bad battery ground, poor cable connections at the battery, or the battery itself is defective. 3. Your cigarette lighter should work with this unit; I currently have four cars running on them that way at the moment. 4. Are any of the Ctek's led's flashing?

The windshields that cause interference (blockage) of radar signals use a thin metalized film imbedded between layers of the glass. Typically, these windscreens have a slightly golden metallic sheen if looked at on an angle in bright light. Because of the metallic film, the radar waves are reflected and never reach the detector mounted inside the vehicle. Several manufacturer's use this technology as they can pass a low voltage current through the entire glass surface rather than just in localized areas, improving the deicing. If the heated windshield option uses this method, it will block the radar signal. I would also try driving an example at night as many have commented that oncoming low beam headlights tend to “halo” or “glare” more when this option is present.

The power steering systems in these cars suffer from a couple of issue; first, the reservoir volume is too small and in a location where it is seldom looked at (even worse in a Boxster or Cayman); and second, due to how the system is packaged, they tend to overheat. Street cars typically do not suffer a lot of problems unless the steering reservoir was allowed to run dry. Track cars suffer a lot more due to accumulated heat. In either case, once steering pump noise or issues develop from heat and/or low fluid levels, nothing can be done to save it, component replacement is on the horizon as the pumps are not easily rebuilt (lack of parts availability). Employing an external cooler is a good move for someone into serious track use, as noted by another poster. Changing fluids to another manufacturer is questionable as these systems use a lot of seals that can be adversely affected by the wrong fluid type. If you are committed to buying the car, I would get a couple of quotes for replacing the pump and rack, and factor that into the offer.

If you have ABS, you need the PST II/PIWIS because you probably have gotten air into the ABS control system with the master cylinder swap out as the Motive system forces the air downward into the system...........

Normally, a bad AOS will have an unusually high vacuum in the sump. Try removing your oil filler cap with the engine running, it it is difficult to get off, you have a bad AOS.

If I'm not mistaken, wasn't this issue recently written up in Excellence magazine? If it is, they came up with a welding solution that is supposed to be a permanent fix............

Exactly, as stated earlier, the very early cars had an adaptor plate, which is what yours is; the later "S" cooler will still bolt in, and as Loren pointed out, is the only style replacement cooler available.......... As for the coolant, if the system is not drained prior to pulling the cooler, it will dump about 2 liters of coolant all over the engine, and some will most likely go down the oil passages. Removing the vent line will not cause the system to drain down; the cooler remains full of coolant when the engine is not running............

The cooler is the only place coolant is anywhere near the fluid, it has to be the source.

Actually, we do have experience with it, some with aftermarket conversion kits as well as with some of the OEM "Flex Fuel" setups, which I believe is what the OP was asking about, and what I based my comments on. So I would not say that my shop "doesn't have any experience" with the technology; we do, and it hasn’t always been as smooth or easy a route to cheap performance that some marketer’s would like you to think; which is also I also believe the OP wanted to know as well.

Yawn......................... B) Look, if you are so "had up" about using E85, be my guest. I see far better performance pathways for these vehicles, with fewer maintenance headaches, than high EtOH based fuels, particularly on engines that are not normally aspirated, and definitely not those with DFI. In the end, it is your money, your vehicle, and your problem. Just don’t expect everyone to agree with your choices……….

As most, if not all of the customers (and potential customers as well) that approach us concerning upgrades or modifications to their vehicles are fairly astute and reasonably well read on the options available. The read the usual performance magazines and post on websites focused on their particular make and model. As such, they have been exposed to a lot of potential modifications, and usually start by asking about the relative merit of “A” over “B” or “C” pathway to more power/better handling, etc. Very few come to us clueless about what they want or need to do. As for E85 availability, it was more prevalent sometime back than it is now, primarily due to slow sales. As tough as this economy is, station operators cannot tie up pumps and underground storage with fuel that simply does not move that quickly, so they converted their dedicated E85 equipment over to regular gas. Just as a “by-the-by”, you are aware that Porsche released a document sometime ago (perhaps a year) cautioning owners about the corrosion problems associated with E10 fuels, recommending that 10% EtOH containing fuels should be subject to additive use (Stabil) at every fill up to limit these issues. Excellence Magazine did a write up on it………….

Just so we are clear: We hear about extensively modifying Porsches everyday; along with our Merc, BMW, Ferrari, and Maserati customers as well; and with our domestic crowd. Not one has brought the subject up. Upgraded turbo's and associated gear, headers/exhaust systems, cams, reworked heads, intake manifolds, injectors, throttle bodies, total upgraded engine swaps, computer re-flashes, even the occasional nitrous set up; but no E85. Perhaps at the "complex carbohydrate adolescent" shop across town, but not here...................

I think he wanted to have metal flakes checked, not oil, to reveal the exact alloy. In any case, he will need a metallurgic lab to determine what the alloy is, and I do not know of one that is “Porsche specific” and able to tell you where the alloy came from; that is simply way too specific. I think any decent metal lab can do the alloy break down, figuring out where it came from would best be addressed by someone that spends a lot of time building there engines from scratch......

"Fuel lines would only need to be changed if they are aluminum (most cars are not, nor is the fuel tank usually aluminum.)" And how many OEM's are using "aluminized mild steel" fuel lines these days as a hedge against situations when water gets into gas due to E10? More than you might imagine....... "Ethanol is proven to make more horsepower at the same volume of air flow if enough fuel can be supplied. " Sure, if you pump enough EtOH into the engine, eventually you overcome the simple physical fact that EtOH is down 1/3 on specific heat output (read horse power) on a volumetric basis when compared to pump gas. In most parts of the country, that simply kills the economics'. "For a Porsche, upgrading to larger turbo's can be much more cost prohibitive than by swapping in larger injectors/fuel pump and tuning the car to run E85." Yet, for some completely strange reason, we regularly get inquiries or projects involving upgrading turbo's, but have never once even been asked about converting a performance vehicle of any make to run E85. Ever wonder why that is? Considering the verbiage in the automotive trade press about "the only one's getting anything out of E85 are the corn farmers"; and the fact that more than one OEM is dropping or reducing the number of "Flex Fuel" vehicles from their lineups due to poor sales or their inability to get enough money for them, as are a lot of fuel retailers, it would seem that economics, often referred to as "the great equalizer", has spoken on the subject............... On a track, a specifically prepared "ten-tenth's" car can make more power on EtOH than on gas, but that is a "cost be damned" environment. The street is an entirely different matter however.............