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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. If the crank is moving that much along its axis, you have a thrust bearing issue, item #17 below: If this bearing is failing, the engine has to come apart.
  2. Living in the former "Arnold-Stan", your fuel choices are limited by what the "authorities" allow the stations to sell, particularly in major metropolitan areas. That said, your DME is fully capable of dialing back the timing and fuel curves to deal with as low as 83 octane, but will obviously not produce maximum performance at that level. At the other end of the spectrum, going nuts with overly expensive high octane racing fuel, or additives, will not buy you much additional HP either, as the DME can only crank up the curves so far, making the “high priced spread” a waste of money. On 91 octane, you will not be giving up much compared to 93, so I would not be overly concerned about it.
  3. As strange as this is going to sound, swapping out the pump is the cheapest part of doing one of these. The time (read labor) to make sure the tank is fully empty, then refill it with a precise amount of fuel, and do the recalibration is going to be a couple of hours of shop and diagnostics time. Pulling and replacing the pump is about an hour. Unless you have access to everything you need, swapping out the pump and then towing the car to the dealer is most likely going to end up costing you more than if you just let them do it…….
  4. To do it properly, cleaning and repacking the CV bearings as well as installing new boots, pull the axles on do them on the bench. Once you disconnect one end, you are 75% of the way to taking it out of the car.........
  5. +1 on Loren's comments; far too many parts (O2 sensors and MAF units) get changed without doing proper diagnostics, only to be found not to be the issue......
  6. First of all, stop randomly changing parts and find out what is causing the alarm fault. These cars store the last ten alarm faults in computer memory, scan the car with a PIWIS unit or the Durametric software and you will know for sure where the issue lies. Quite often, the two favorites are the armrest contact switch, or the radio security ground wire.
  7. I just love it! Then charge inflated prices, and we are supposed to resort to bribery to gain relief? Yikes!
  8. Not at all surprising. When fuel pumps crap out, slow and almost unperceivable changes in performance are typical; many customers comment that after we changed out their pumps their cars felt “lighter on their feet” or “more responsive”. Not surprising as the both the fuel pressure and delivery volumes dropped off as the pump deteriorated, and then suddenly returned with the installation of a new unit. As these cars are equipped with a fuel system test port, periodically checking the pressure and delivery has caught pumps on the way out before any problems were even noticed.
  9. Just watch out for cheap aftermarket "knock off" axles coming in from over seas. While some are pretty good, many are vastly inferior to the OEM units, not just in the steel, but the CV joints and boots as well. As replacement OEM unit are rather pricey, you can rebuild your current units for low bucks, and you end up with solid quality at a very reasonable price. Another option is to find a local axle rebuilder that will overhaul your units; not a cheap as doing them yourself, but still better than replacing them.
  10. Along with the $400 oil changes.............. :eek:
  11. Stories like this are what keep independents in business………… Granted, dealers have higher overhead, but there are limits to how much the slick waiting area, free coffee, and bagels will cover.
  12. I'm not really sure what you are referring to as "an anti drain back collar", but if you are using the OEM design cartridge filter, it would be well worth your while looking at the Wix/NAPA Gold 57211: The filter media has a pore diameter about 30% smaller the the OEM cartridge, and uses molded plastic end caps that totally ecapsulate the filter media rather than being butt glued to treated paper end caps as the OEM's are. A terrific performing filter at about half the price of the OEM filters. If you are using one of the LN spin on adaptors, Wix/NAPA Gold also makes an excellent spin on using the same small pore filter media in their 51042 unit. Based upon their overall quality and performance, we use and recommend Wix/NAPA Gold oil and air filters for our customer's Porsches.
  13. The car's computers record the last ten alarm faults, get the car scanned and you will have a list of what is triggering the alarm.
  14. The clutch can be replaced by itself, but you will need a special tool to get it off.
  15. They are totally different cars; the Turbo has “the look” and can lay on gobs of power, but some of it is lost to the Tip. The 4S does not have as much raw power, but is a very refined handler and can still be a blast to drive, plus the PDK is a huge improvement over the Tip. Depends upon where you head is at...........
  16. There is a neutral safety switch that prevents starting the car in gear; the unit is pricey (about $300) and a bit of a bear to get at (very littlle room under the car, plus a cat is in the way). Yours sounds like it is on the way out (not uncommon):
  17. No. The only way to clear the air bag light is with a PIWIS or the Durametric system; no other aftermarket unit will do it.
  18. Problem with cleaning up an intermix is that each one is different, so they are typically quoted on a “time and materials” basis; it could be a couple hundred dollars, or a lot more depending upon how long the car was run in that condition, which makes the clean up much more difficult, plus time and materials consuming………..
  19. We generally replace the serpentine belts whenever we are doing any work that requires releasing it, regardless of how the belt looks. On a mileage basis, we swap them out at around 30K miles, purely as a precautionary measure. The belt is cheap, usually less than $30 retail, and easy to replace. On the other hand, loosing it can strand you, or could end up costing you an engine. On an 8 year old car, I would definitely replace it. I would also suggest carrying the used belt in the boot as a spare, as a replacement can sometimes be hard to find quickly at 2AM...........
  20. Be very careful guys, this is the exact type of behavior that Porsche has frowned upon in the past, and have gone ballistic on the perpetrators of to protect what they see as their intellectual property....................
  21. If you are using a top quality full synthetic oil of an appropriate viscosity, aftermarket additives’ are a total waste of money. Most are short term “band-aid” products that do little if anything good. Some can actually have a negative effect on the oil itself.
  22. The moment the seller starts telling you the limits on how and where you can have the car inspected before buying it, it is time for a hasty exit, stage right......................
  23. That is because it is "N" rated...............
  24. Do your self, and your car, an enormous favor: Next oil change, send out a sample of your "relatively new" oil for analysis; then you will understand why this does not work; and why you should be changing out all the oil sooner...............
  25. You should be thinking more in the direction of shortening the intervals. UOA's on oils show that they do not have a prayer for making 15K miles, the oil is sheared to death, the additive package is long dead, the oil is contaminated with all sorts of crud (dirt, fuel, acids, etc.). Using a really good full synthetic (no, I am not going to engage in an oil brand/weight war, so don't even think about it), the best you are going to get before the oil is toast is in the realm of 5-7K miles. Change it more frequently, not less..............
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