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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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Be very careful guys, this is the exact type of behavior that Porsche has frowned upon in the past, and have gone ballistic on the perpetrators of to protect what they see as their intellectual property....................
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If you are using a top quality full synthetic oil of an appropriate viscosity, aftermarket additives’ are a total waste of money. Most are short term “band-aid” products that do little if anything good. Some can actually have a negative effect on the oil itself.
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The moment the seller starts telling you the limits on how and where you can have the car inspected before buying it, it is time for a hasty exit, stage right......................
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where to buy the small o ring inside the oil filter house?
JFP in PA replied to nosturbo's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
That is because it is "N" rated............... -
Do your self, and your car, an enormous favor: Next oil change, send out a sample of your "relatively new" oil for analysis; then you will understand why this does not work; and why you should be changing out all the oil sooner...............
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You should be thinking more in the direction of shortening the intervals. UOA's on oils show that they do not have a prayer for making 15K miles, the oil is sheared to death, the additive package is long dead, the oil is contaminated with all sorts of crud (dirt, fuel, acids, etc.). Using a really good full synthetic (no, I am not going to engage in an oil brand/weight war, so don't even think about it), the best you are going to get before the oil is toast is in the realm of 5-7K miles. Change it more frequently, not less..............
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I would not buy the cats both dying at the same time until you fix the air injection system and the car stays free of the associated codes. If the cat codes come back, then you may have a cat issue, but I have never seen both cats go out simultaneously; they don’t crap out all that often one at a time, much less both of them at once. But if the cat codes do return, without the air injection codes, they are probably toast.
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If an O2 sensor is ever in question, there are a series of pass/fail electrical test for the sensor and its heater that should be done before replacing them. If the sensor passes, there is nothing wrong with it, the issue lies elsewhere. P0420 and 0430 indicate that the three way cats on both banks are bad, which is very odd to say the least as they rarely die, much less do it in unison. Add in the codes for issues with the secondary air injection system, which will impact the cat’s performance, and I would say they appear connected. The air injections system on these cars is infamous for all sorts of issues ranging from component failure (particularly the change over valve), to blocked air lines (easy to fix), vacuum leaks, to totaled air pumps. While none of this stuff is exactly cheap, and entirely new secondary air system, installed by the slowest and most outrageously priced Porsche dealer on Earth, is not going to set you back what the three way cats are going to do. And replacing the cats is not going to fix the secondary air issue. Do some searching and look into the air system, it ain’t happy……….
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Congratulations on spending both time and money on the wrong things. P0420 and 0430 point to three way cat conversion being too low on both cylinder banks; they have nothing to do with the O2 sensors performance. P0410 and 1411 indicate the secondary air injection system failure (P0410 indicates the air injection pump is not triggering, P1411 likewise indicates the secondary air pump is not working properly due to air line restriction, failed change over valve or vacuum leaks). I would be willing to bet all of the codes are related to the secondary air system malfunction. Don’t dread codes, be thankful for them and research what they are telling you; while they point you in the correct direction much like a compass; they require an application of diagnostic logic for them to get you to your destination, much as a GPS would……………
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The link Loren provided is for the unit that includes adaptors for everything from lawn tractors and motorcycles to your Porsche; we use the UView tools on literally every water cooled vehicle that comes into the shop.
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Like most OEM's Porsche prefers to refill these systems under vacuum to eliminate any air pockets, which can be very problematic in alloy cased and headed engines. Some DIY'ers say that you can do it without vacuum, but the vacuum system leak tests the entire system, refills the system, prevents any retained air, does it all in about 5 min., and does not require any future coolant level top up, so it is hard to argue with. We use vacuum on literally everything that comes through the shop. We premix the Porsche OEM coolant (only) with equal amounts of distilled water (only), then refill the system. The vacuum tool will cost you about $100, as long as you do not buy it from Porsche...........
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The flex conenctor has taken a "heat set" to the metal on the throttle body. When we get one of these, patients and a little persuasion in usually all that is required.................
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Bigger rotors on 986?
JFP in PA replied to gunman168's topic in 986 Boxster Suspension, Brakes, and Wheels
To fit the larger cross-drilled “S” rotors, you will need different calipers as well as the rotors, as the rotors are both larger in diameter, but are also thicker as well. The base calipers will not work. Fitting the “S” rotors to the rear is even more problematic as you would need to swap out the suspension carrier hubs as well as the rotors and calipers, which is both time consuming and expensive. As for some “online kit” that uses an adaptor under the caliper to space it outward for a larger diameter rotor, well that sounds like a death wish waiting to happen…… -
Any time!
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Glad to hear it was sorted and nothing particularly serious; when a car is running that poorly, you really do not want to try driving it long distances. You made the correct choice.
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Let us know how this comes out; with all the misfires, you are better off to be safe rather than sorry……………
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According to the OBD II diagnostics manual the O2 code (P0130) is an electrical fault code, meaning that the sensor is not in the correct voltage range, or is shorted. The sensor and its heater need to be checked for the correct voltage readings, and the wiring harness and connectors need to be looked at and tested for continuity, presence of shorts to ground, and the correct voltages. If the sensor fails the test, it needs to be replaced. If the sensor voltages are correct, and the wiring is OK, the next stop is check the DME, which may have developed a fault. As for driving the car, that is up to you. Without "eyes and hands on", and electrical test of the sensor and harness, I really have no way to advise you on how to proceed. As I mentioned, I have not seen an O2 sensor force an entire bank of cylinders to misfire simultaneously, and if it starts doing that again, it would be both a very long journey and would probably cause collateral damage to the car as well......
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In general, bad O2 sensors do on cause a car to misfire, which you seem to have on all cylinders on one side of the engine. The O2 sensor code, however, can be the result of this type misfire event.
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Without knowing what the codes are, you have no idea if or when it is going to start blinking again. You don't need a PIWIS or Durametric system, any OBD II compliant scanner will tell you exactly what is going on. From your first post, it sounds like the car went into "limp" mode (the DME sets a relatively low engine RPM limit to prevent doing more damage), that usually does not happen without a damned good reason.................... If it were my car, I’d have it scanned before I did anything else. You could very well get a few kilometers down the road, out in the middle of nowhere, and it could start flashing, or worse.
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Mistake #1: Blinking CEL means pull over, shut the car off, and have it towed to the shop; something more serious has occurred. Mistake #2: Never, repeat, never disconnect the battery to clear a blinking CEL; in doing so, you have lost all the critical diagnostic information pointing to what is wrong that was stored in the DME. Get the car towed into a shop, get it scanned. Without the codes, any supposition as to what is wrong is purely a guess....................
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Experience has shown that engines that have encountered intermixing and have been run that way for a bit often end up with issues beyond just stopping the water leak. If caught quickly, and not driven, $2-3K is reasonable; unfortunately the damage often goes much further……….
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People will ask whatever they think they can get, particularly on flea bay, but the reality is a complete car, including the bum engine, is only worth a few thousand depending upon year, model, equipment, and condition. By the time you get another engine, even from a wreck, get it installed and running, you are going spend that much again, even if you do most of the work. To help put it in perspective, a rebuilt crate engine from Porsche is going to set you back in excess of $10-12 grand (or more), a used engine out of a wreck is probably in the $5 grand range.
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The car in question is complete, but does not run, but is capable of "rolling" around. A "roller" is also the equivalent price for a fully running car of the same vintage in similar condition, with the cost to replace the engine deducted from the price.
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If you buy this car, discount the price to that of "a roller" (e.g.: a body with no engine) based upon having to pull the engine out and have it pulled apart. Realistically, trying to do this kind of work with the engine still in is going to be a nightmare; plus you need to go through the entire assembly to be sure no other problems (bearings on their way out, or cam lobes worn due to poor lubrication and the effects of coolant on the surfaces, etc.). Be prepared to jump for a lot of money as these engines are anything but cheap to do a simple "refresh" of all the wear items. Realistically, you probably would do better buying a running engine from a wrecked car rather than going the rebuild route......
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Durametric discount?
JFP in PA replied to Ignited's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Actually, Ross Tech is very complimentary towards Durametric on their website, noting that Porsche uses a totally different diagnostics computer code system than VW and Audi…………..
